•i V:>U 



:l,*>:';.v':^-. 



m 




LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Shelf.A.B.lt 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



THE 



Grand Trunk Railway 



AND THE 



RICHELIEU AND ONTARIO NAVIGA- 
TION CO.'S STEAMERS 

IS THE 

Great Pi^kasurk Routte, 

OFFERING A MOST ATTRACTIVE SELECTION OF 
POPULAR EXCURSIONS 

Via Niagara Falls, River St. Lawrence, with Thousand 
Islands and Rapids, Montreal, Quebec, River Sague- 
nay, Gulf Ports, Lower Provinces, Lake Cham- 
plain and Lake George, Saratoga, The 
White Mountains, Etc., Etc. 



Pullman Palace Sleeping C^rs will be attached to the evening 
train from Niagara Falls at 4:35 P. M., and will run through to 
Kingston Wharf, where passengers can remain in the car until the 
boat arrives, at 5 o'clock, A. M. 

The Sea Side and White Mountains Special Limited Vestibuled 
Train will leave Chicago every Wednesday, commencing June 26th, 
for Portland, returning on Sunday evening. This entire train "is 
lighted by electricity, and runs through, solid, from Chicago to 
Portland, the W^hite Mountains, and the Sea Side resorts. See 
special advertisements. 

Daily Fast Express train will also be run from Portland at 9.00 
A. M. to Toronto, Hamilton, Port Union and Chicago, requiring 

ONE NIGHT ONLY 

on the road to any of these points. This is the only line reaching 
the Muskoka Lake and Parry Sound districts. 

Tickets and information may be obtained at the principal ticket 
offices, also of the agents of the Grand Trunk Railway Company, 
from whom excursions and tourists' routes and rates of fare can be 
obtained. 

JOSEPH HICKSON, Gen'l Man'gr G. T. R. J. CHABOT, Gen'l Man'gr R. & N. Co. 
WM. EDGAR, Gen, Pass. Agt. G. T. R. J. B. LABELLE, Traffic Mang'r. 



the: 



44 



PhAT DOY'S 



?5 



16 T^ars on the St. Lawrence, 



TMK PEORIvK MKX ArsID THK 
THINQS SKKN. 



f\ * Qalde * for * Joarists * ai^d * frauelers. 



EIGHTH EDITION. COPYRIGHTED, 1889. 



E. F. BABBAGE, Publisher. 




ROCHESTER, N. Y,: 

DEMOCRAT AND CHRONICLE PRINT, 47 & 49 EAST MAIN STREET. 






/ 



'iX 



^^ 



1- 



^ 



X^ 



INTRODUCTION. 



IN presenting this work, " The Phat Boy's Sixteen 
Years on the St. Lawrence River," I am aware 
that financial or personal ends are always the para- 
mount object to be attained by an individual who puts 
forth anything in this world. 1 therefore plead guilty 
to the above charge, and for so doing purpose to 
give to the tourist or traveler down this grandest 
of trips, a faithful description of every point of 
interest that meets the eye of the beholder. 

" The People I Have Met and the Things I Have 
Seen," is the outgrowth of the eight editions that 
have been issued by me and cheerfully received by 
the public. It is the only correct guide for the 
tourist or traveler down this majestic stream, as it is 
compiled from the thousand and one questions 
answered, that were asked me by parties who passed 
down the trip during my ten years of service as 
^' Guide to the St. Lawrence." It is my honesty and 
good faith to state what prompted this issue. 

I feel capable of compiling a book which, although 
it does not contain any pictorial illustrations of 
the scenic beauty connected with the trip, I am 
confident that a plain, unvarnished description of all 



the various points of interest would be sufficient. 
The tourist can thus feast the eye on a thousand 
pictures that a volume ten times this size could not 
contain, for no matter how often you open the eyes 
during the day, they will fall upon some delightful 
scene, where the God of Nature has smiled upon her, 
within an hour. Neither have I given a highly 
colored description of the Rapids ; they have been 
viewed and described by thousands, and the effect 
produced is as varied in character as the individual 
writers differed in temperament and looks. 

Trusting this volume may meet with as cheerful a 
greeting by the public as it has always accorded my 
efforts to please, and if its perusal causes the weary or 
lonesome traveler one hour of mirth or pleasure, its 
mission will have been accomplished. 
Respectfully yours, 

E. F. BABBAGE, " Phat Boy," 

Guide to the St. Lazvrence, 



u 



THE PHAT BOY'S" i6 YEARS 

ON 

THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 



THE St. Lawrence River, with its Thousand Islands 
and Rapids^ is day by day attracting more and 
more attention among tourists. There is so much 
that is grand, weird, sublime and exhilarating in the 
scenery and balmy atmosphere of the majestic river, 
as it passes in its onward flow from the lake to the 
gulf, that we need not for a moment wonder why it 
is that there is a great annual increase in the number 
of those intelligent people, who, from East, West 
and South, repair to its placid waters in summer to 
recuperate their wasted energies and enjoy that 
luxuriating season known to every American as 
" vacation." 

A vacation on the St. Lawrence means a sojourn at 
some pretentious or lowly cottage, or at some hotel 
of either class for a few days, or for one, two or more 
weeks, as the time, finances and inclinations of the 
individual may dictate; or it may, as in hundreds of 
instances it does, only include a voyage of rapid 
transit from New York to Utica, Clayton, Niagara 
Falls, Lewiston, Toronto or Kingston to Alexander 
Bay or Montreal, then return home. There are 
severffi different popular starting places to reach the 
river; it is presumed you will take the most conven- 
ient one, and we will consider ourselves pleased with 
the selection. 



HERE IS WHERE YOU BEGIN, 

dear reader, to peruse an effort of mine which has 
taken up my leisure moments for the past eight 
months; it is not a physical effort, or it would have 
been larger, but being a literary one is a good reason 
why it can be held within such a small space as two 
hundred pages. A physical effort anywhere near my 
size you would have very little use for. While trav- 
eling, where could you store it away? No sardine 
box would hold it. You could not put it into a satchel 
or trunk nor tuck it away in any little convenient 
place. But this little volume can be carried most 
anywhere. I have tried to make it of such a desirable 
size that it can rest secure in the coat pocket, shawl- 
strap or in the hand. It is a dose for an adult, not to 
be shaken before taken, as you are expected to shake 
until your sides ache before you get through it ; do 
not be in a hurry ; take it easy, it is more pleasant 
that way. Do not feel offended if your name is not 
mentioned among " The People I Have Met." Think 
what a large head it would take to contain all I have 
passed through ; but console yourself that you may 
be among "The Things I Have Seen." 

It is a pleasure as well as a duty to state that I 
am indebted to Mr. George C. Hawley, Stenographer, 
of Rochester, New York, who so ably assisted me in 
taking my dictation for this work. 

** DON'T DO IT." 

This startling head-line, when it strikes the eye, 
denotes that there is something to be said of personal 
benefit to the reader of the article, and we hope to 



make it pleasant as well as profitable to those who 
take the time to peruse it. To begin with, we desire 
to say, don't get fat ; do not allow yourself to 
develop beyond the line which is laid down for the 
average man or w^oman ; because, if you do, the 
average chair will not fit, the average seat in a rail- 
road coach will be too small ; you will be obliged to 
shrink into it, and then take up the seat of another 
after you get in. The same trouble will occur at 
amusements, which you enjoy very much, but it so 
distorts you to occupy the chair that the pleasure is 
lost ; the average door to a hack is too small, and so 
is the omnibus, and you are obliged to walk. Here 
you will enjoy it, especially if it is a little slippery, 
dropping now and then three hundred and thirty 
pounds, because your friend thinks it does not hurt a 
fat man to fall. You will get no sympathy from any 
one, this I guarantee, because I have tried it. By 
way of illustration, if I had not eaten anything for 
three days but a yard of pump water, and was to come 
to a friend and say I was hungry, and had not had 
anything to eat for three days, he would look me all 
over, and in reply would say : " Well, I guess you 
can stand it until next fall." So the fleshier you are, 
the less sympathy you get. And " If Dr. Tanner stood 
it for forty days, you have sufficient fat to last you 
six months, to say the least." Second, you become, as 
it were, a curiosity, and all look at you with amaze- 
ment and wonder what circus or side show you 
escaped from, or to what dime museum you belong 
Third there isn't anything made for the average man 
that will fit you, therefore everything must be made to 
order that you wear, except a necktie, pair of socks 



8 

or handkerchief. The latter must be seven-eighths of 
a yard wide in order to hold the perspiration it will 
mop up in once passing over your manly brow. 
Fourth, when at the age of 21, and weighing 225 
pounds, I had no trouble in making a selection of a 
partner for life. She climbed the golden stairs about 
eight years ago, and now I am fair, fat, funny and 
forty ; would pass in a crowd for thirty-nine, if my 
daughter was not around. If I find one now who 
loves a fat man — I am a little too fat — therefore, this 
world is very chilly for me. 

After you have become a little above the average 
size, as I have in development, and are conspicuous, 
everybody will know you ; if they do not, it will be 
easy for them to find out ; all they are obliged to do 
is to ask anyone. You will not know only those of 
your relations and friends very near to you. Then 
this world will be very lonesome and cold, or your 
experience will be different from mine. No one 
will ever ask you to '• get in and take a ride," no 
niatter what the circumstances maybe — as they think 
of forty accidents that might occur, and you are too 
large a body for the average springs or seat in any 
vehicle. It would be a treat (were you not sensitive) 
if you could walk one block and hear the expressions 
that come from the vulgar throng as they pass. One 
female, with eyes like two saucers, exclaimed: "Glory 
be to the father, Mary Ann, phwat's that ? '^ And 
another says, " Gotl in himmel, what a fat man," or a 
lady of color declare, "Umph ! Umph ! ! Dat am de 
fattest man I ebber seed." 



SIR WALTER PELHAM, ENGLAND'S 
GREATEST HUMORIST, 

paid the Thousand Islands a visit last summer and 
gave his unique entertainments in different places. 
While in a conversation with him on the dock one 
day a steamboat arrived with about two hundred pas- 
sengers on board and remained about fifteen minutes, 
during which time Mr. Pelham stood by my side 
taking in the situation. After the boat had left he 
remarked that it was a fortunate thing to me that I 
was not sensitive in regard to my personal appearance, 
etc. " For," said he, '" of these two hundred passen- 
gers I do not believe one of them missed seeing you 
and scanning your manly form from head to foot. I 
would suggest that when you die you be placed in a me- 
morial window for future generations to gaze upon." 
When he had finished these complimentary remarks 
I presented him a copy of my book. The next day 
a poem was handed me together with Mr. Pelham's 
compliments and I am sorry to say that it has been 
lost, strayed or stolen, and consequently I am unable 
to produce it in full, and can only give what little I 
remember. 



From Florence to E. F\ Babbage. 

In your " People I have met and the Things that I have seen," 
I notice you your widowerhood deplore ; 

Now, I am a slender maid, 

Not of adipose afraid, 
Who could love you if you scaled a hundred more. 



lO 



If you were twice j^our size, my sighs the same I'd breathe, 
Fat ne'er puts out a flame that's Ht by love ; 
Then come along with me, 
And let us married be, 
And be my little, popsie wopsie dove. 

For when we two are one, the better half then I, 
Your adipose of course will half be mine, 
Therefore at once agree, 
Oh 1 think how sad 'twill be, 
Thy Fatima for you to longer pine. 

• 
Oh, guide of sweet St. Lawrence, devote your fat to Florence, 
And leave the wandering river's flowing tide ; 
The beauty of the waters 
Compare not with Eve's daughters. 
So make me just the happiest of brides. 

Then board the nuptial craft, or matrimonial raft, 
Your, oil will sure subdue life's stormy waves ; 
And live with me in peace, 
And have our joys in grease, 
Till called to lard our vaults or common graves. 

^' Till death do us part, as it were, etc " 



JAMES B. COLGATE. 

The " Old Bullion," as he is termed on Wall Street, 
New York, with his family and some friends, made a 
trip from New York and Niagara Falls down the 
St Lawrence River, spending a couple of days at 
Niagara, crossing the lake, remaining one day at 
Toronto, embarked in a steamer of the Richelieu 
Ontario Navigation Company at 2 o'clock p. m. for 
Montreal, arriving at Kingston early the next morn- 
ing. I was added to the passengers' list, and in my 
capacity as guide to the river, commenced, as soon as 



II 



we left port, to make the trip pleasant to every one 
by giving the points of interest as we passed. After 
taking from my pocket my tobacco box, I partook of 
some of its contents and was just placing it back 
again when a very fine-looking white-haired gentle- 
man approached me and said: ''Sir, do you use 
tobacco?" I said, ''Yes, sir, I do." He said, " Will 
you have the kindness to give me a chew?" I said, 
*' Yes, sir, with pleasure, it is always pleasant for me 
to give any man a chew of tobacco.'^ Presenting 
him with the box he proceeded to take a quantity 
sufficient for himself and resumed his seat. In about 
a minute he returned and said, " Myself and friend 
left home each provided with what we thought was 
tobacco enough for the trip, but the amount ran out 
at Niagara Falls, and we were unable to procure any 
there such as we were used to chewing, plain tobacco, 
and we have been without a chew of tobacco since 
we left Niagara, unable to obtain any at Toronto. 
This being plain, can we procure some of you ^" I 
said, " Yes, you are welcome to any amount you like. 
I have a pound of W. S. Kimball's plain chewing 
tobacco, manufactured at Rochester, New York, a 
brand which I have been using for the past sixteen 
years. When he first commenced to manufacture it 
he cut one pail per day, and now cuts five hundred." 
I gave him a box full, and I never saw depicted on 
any mortal's face greater resignation, pleasure, joy 
and satisfaction than on his, for when a man wants a 
chew of tobacco who has been without it for twenty- 
four hours, and his desire is unexpectedly gratified, he 
don't know how to pay for the kindness of the 
accommodation. If he had paid me in propor- 



12 



tion for the benefits he derived, or seemed to have 
derived, it would have taken half his fortune, and he 
is said to be worth millions. I made the trip pleasant 
as I could for them until the Indian pilot came on 
board, when one of the gentlemen approached me 
and handed me a ten dollar bill as a token of their 
appreciation for services rendered. I politely de- 
clined accepting it, saying that the steamboat line 
and the hotel I had the honor to represent paid me 
for making the trip a pleasant one, and I therefore 
could not receive any compensation. Then he said, 
'' You can give it to the Indian pilot," which I did. 
This little act endeared me more in the estimation of 
the faithful pilot than ever, and from that time on I 
could always get him to shake the hand of any pas- 
senger who expressed a desire to do so. I have 
presented' as many as ten ladies in a day who re- 
quested the honor of taking him by the hand. 

AUNT AND I. 

I receive many invitations during the season to 
accompany parties on their fishing tours and pic-nics 
among the islands. Refused many last year, but 
accepted one. The party consisted of ten persons, 
with their chartered yacht, the Claud S. Leaving the 
Bay at 8 o'clock, a. m., we were at 9:45 at the point 
selected for the fishing, pleasure and dinner. The 
gentlemen very quietly selected their boats and fish- 
ermen and were quickly off for fish, leaving me to 
attend to and amuse the ladies. After the captain 
and engineer of the yacht had arranged wraps, mats, 
folding-chairs and a hammock for each of the party 
we roamed the woods during the interim and returned 



13 

to rest at will. Lying down upon a knoll on a mat, 
the ladies around me, I recited for their amxisement, 
" Pat's Dream of Heaven." When in the most 
pathetic part I felt something creeping up my shin- 
bone, with a determined business-like tread. What 
could it be ? My thoughts were wandering from the 
subject. In any other position or at any other time I 
would not care. I became nervous, my manhood was 
aroused, my feelings must not be trifled with. I 
determined to make a serious line in the poem funny„ 
so I could slap my knee and at the same time kill the 
vermin ; I made the effort but it did not work. The 
blow made me feel as if a bar of pig-iron had been 
shot through my limbs. The ladies looked at me as 
if scared, thinking I might have an attack of the 
J. J.^s, or worse. On my face was a number seven 
smile, while my brow was knit smoking hot with 
rage. I could not excuse myself to go and see a 
man. No! no! What could I do ? At this moment 
up jumped Miss Alice. She jumped again and again, 
turned red in the face, grabbed her skirts tightly 
with both hands, ran for the woods saying : " Get 
out ! get out!" It is supposed there were just ants 
enough for two. Dinner was announced and there 
were two who could not do the subject justice, Alice 
and I. 

IF YOU GUESS WHAT IT IS YOU MAY 

HAVE IT. 

The conundrum which these head lines indicate 
came to me in the shape of a short, thick-set old 
gentleman, who asked of me numerous questions, all 
of which were answered cheerfully, but when I 



^4 

attempted to ask him one, he took from his vest 
pocket the following, which you can peruse, dear 
reader, and ponder over, and if you can guess who 
the author of it is, you will perform what I was 
unable to fathom. 

LETTER OF THE CADI. 



IMAUM ALI ZADE. 

TO AN ENGLISH.AIAN WHO HAD ENQUIRED COXCERXING THE POPULATION, 
BUSINESS AND PREVIOUS HISTORY OF HIS CITY. 

From Layard's Ninevat. 

My Illustrious Friend and Joy of my liver! The 
thing you ask is both difficult and useless. Although 
I have passed all my days in this place, I have neither 
counted the houses nor have I inquired into the 
number of the inhabitants ; and as to what one per- 
son loads on his mules and the other stows away in 
the bottom of his ship, that is no business of mine. 
But, above all, as to the previous history of this city, 
God only knows the amount of dirt and confusion 
that the infidels may have eaten before the coming of 
the sword of Islam. It were unprofitable for us to 
inquire into it. 

Oh, my soul ! oh, my lamb ! seek not after the 
things which concern thee not. Thou camest unto 
us, and w^e welcomed thee ; go in peace. 

Of a truth, thou hast spoken many words ; and 
there is no harm done, for the speaker is one and the 
listener is another. After the fashion of thy people 
thou hast wandered from one place to another until 
thou art happy and content in none. We (praise be 
to God) were born here and never desire to quit it. 
Is it possible then that the idea of a general inter- 
course between mankind should make any impression 
on our understandings ? God forbid ! 

Listen, oh my son ! There is no wisdom equal to 
the belief in God ! He created the world, and shall 
we liken ourselves unto Him in seeking to penetrate 



15 

into the mysteries of His creation? Shall we say, 
behold this star spinneth round that star, and this 
other star with a tail goeth and cometh in so many 
years ! Let it go ! He from whose hand it came 
will guide and direct it. 

But thou wilt say unto me, Stand aside, oh man, 
for I am more learned than thou art, and have seen 
more things. If thou thinkest that thou art in this 
respect better than I am, thou art welcome. I praise 
God that I seek not that I require no^ Thou are 
learned in the things I care not for; and as for that 
which thou hast seen, I defile it. Will much knowl- 
edge create thee a double belly, or wilt thou seek 
Paradise with thine eyes ? 

Oh, my friend! It thou wilt be happy, say, There 
is no God but God ! Do no evil, and thus wilt thou 
fear neither man nor death, for surely thine hour will 
come! 

The meek in spirit (El Fakir,) 

IMAUM ALI ZADE. 

Messrs. COOK & TOWNSEND, of Rochester, 

N. Y., 

have, from time to time in the past, made thousands 
of people pleased with their excursions down the St. 
Lawrence, but for the past three years have been 
giving their attention to European excursions. I 
hope next year to see them bending their energies to 
again visit the majestic St. Lawrence. 

MY MEETING WITH DAVID DUDLEY 

FIELD, OR HOW I EARNED 

TWENTY-TWO CENTS. 

One year ago last season Alexander Bay was 
honored with a visit from David Dudley Field, the 
distinguished jurist. Seeing one day he was about 



i6 

to be a passenger on the boat Island Wanderer for a 
trip among the Islands, I thought I would introduce 
myself to him, and at the same time make him a pres- 
ent of my book and map, as it would give him the 
name of every island, cottage and stopping place of 
the boat on her trip. Approaching him, I said : " Mr. 
Field, I have here a little book which on page 37 
commences a description of your trip this afternoon." 
He took the book out of my hand and upon reading 
the title, said : " I don't want anything humorous ; " 
and I remarked that it was only humorous where it 
was not descriptive, and if he didn't care for it I had 
a picture of the St. Lawrence River. Before I could 
say any more he had turned the book over and saw 
the price of it was twenty-five cents, and he com- 
menced going through almost a contoition of body, 
and fumbling in his pockets for the twenty-five cents 
to get rid of me, and I saw that his efforts were in vain, 
for all he could produce was twenty-two cents, and 
he forced me to take it, notwithstanding the fact that 
I had said to him that I came therefor the purpose of 
making him a present of my book, also a picture of 
the St, Lawrence River, which I repeated again. 
Then he said, " Why didn't you do it then," and my 
answer was, that "You didn't give me time, and seeing 
that you have thrust this twenty-two cents upon me, 
I shall have the pleasure of keeping it until I return 
home, and then it shall go into my museum of 
curiosities. When you come and visit me you shall 
see it." 

HOW WOMEN FISH. 

Having read various descriptions of how fishing is 
carried on by the fair sex at the several watering 



17 

places, permit us to mention some of them. One 
writer said: "Ah! what joy to have a bite; what 
rare delight to find one's bait gone" — and it was only 
by the suicidal policy of some water-weary, fish who 
chanced to pass our way that we could record one 
fish for our day's sport. How different is the fishing 
at the Bay. 

As an illustration, a very funny anecdote was 
recited to me by Mr. J. C. Covert, editor of the 
Cleveland Leader^ who said, " Talk about ladies 
catching fish, I am somewhat of an angler myself 
and take a great deal of comfort fishing at the Bay. 
The other day I was out fishing with my wife, who, by 
the way, has no pretensions as a captivator of the 
finny tribe, yet she caught seven fish before I had 
time to put my line into the water." This somewhat 
astonished me, and T remarked that he must have 
been very slow that morning. He answered by 
telling me, " No ! On the contrary, I was very 
lively ; all my time was employed taking the fish off 
and baiting her hook." He entered a protest after 
that and let the boatman attend to Mrs. Covert's line 
while he enjoyed the sport. 

A gentleman says of the fishing near the Hudson : 
"The first thing a woman does when she goes fishing 
is to make herself look as hideous as possible — a sort 
of a cross between the Witch of Endor and Meg 
Merriles. This is done by a hideous straw hat big 
enough to cover a chicken coop, the oldest and most 
unbecoming dress she has got, a pair of gloves six 
sizes too large, and, if possible, rubber boots. And 
the sight of woman, lovely woman, so dressed, 
presents a spectacle of pity." You will not have 



i8 



occasion to pity any of the ladies who go fishing- 
from the Bay, for they look so jaunty you would 
envy them and their enjoyment as well as fish. I 
have known Mrs. Madden and party to bring home 
30 fish varying in size from a 3^ black bass to a 7 

pound pickerel. A friend writes from C Lake, 

telling how he spent a day fishing there, accompanied 
by three ladies and a gentleman friend. " Women 
never step into a boat here, they always jump. Of 
course she slips, falls down, yells for help, nearly 
upsets the boat, and is put to rights by the most 
eligible young man in the party. Nothing will do 
then, but she must row, and she knows as much 
about rowing as a cow does about billiards. She 
handles her oars as if they were trees, splashes every 
one with water, and after half an hour's work she is 
about ten feet away in the wrong direction, when 
one of the men takes the oars and we are soon at our 
fishing place. She tries to bait her hook, and after 
getting the hook into all her fingers (in fact every- 
where but into the minnow), her friend baits her 
hook, and she throws it out. The first time it catches 
onto one of the ladies' ears, the next throw, into the 
back of the gentleman's neck, and the third time into 
the coat of her friend, who quietly cuts it out (it is 
his best coat), and he gently puts the line into the 
water without saying a cuss word, and says he hopes 
she will catch a whale. After a few moments of 
quiet all are informed she has a bite ; she pulls it in 
steadily to find it is part of the carcass of a dead 
horse. She is soon relieved of the burden and 
catches a small perch. She is so delighted that she 
must let it flop into the faces of every one in the 



19 

boat, tries for twenty minutes to take it off the hook, 
but her fingers are so sore she lets the job out to her 
male companion. One of the other ladies has sat for 
two hours without moving a muscle, while the other, 
I believe, would fish with a hair-pin baited with a 
piece of red flannel hung to a skein of silk in a 
stationary wash-tub, and solemnly declare when she 
got through that she had millions of bites." Dear 
lady readers, we have no such experiences to relate at 
Alexandria Bay. The boats are the prettiest, the 
fishermen the nicest, the fish the largest and best, the 
boatmen bait your hooks. The hotel furnishes the 
lunch, and you are sure to catch fish. When they are 
cooked and you eat your meal served upon an Island, 
and do not say you have had the most pleasant day 
ever spent fishing, draw on me for the balance. 

P. B. 



DON PERANDO WHISKERANDO. 

A gentleman whose^name I was, unable to ascertain 
boarded the Island Wanderer for a little trip to the 
Fiddler's Elbow Lake of the Thousand Islands, &c. 
As he was attracting considerable attention owing to 
the fact of his having a red, white and blue beard, I 
approached him and had the following conversation : 
"My friend, I see your whiskers are red, white and 
blue — is that a natural growth or do you dye them ?" 
*' No, sir; I use no dye whatever. The fact is, when I 
was a young man my beard was red ; as I grew old 
it began to turn white and as I came up here on the 
deck the wind blew through them." "Enough said, 
here is a copy of my book." 



20 



YOU KNOW HER. 

She is one of the strong minded of the female sex^ 
and generally has her own way in everything. At 
any rate she stands ready at any and all times to 
combat with any one of the lords of creation, or 
otherwise, who may dispute her sway. We prefer 
your imagination to fill in a description, because it 
would be next to an impossibility for me to do so» 
She has all the requisites : the thin, tall figure, the 
hatchet face, sharp nose, wears glasses, and always 
carries an umbrella. About one each day will pass 
down this route in Summer, except when an Eastern 
or Western Excursion comes ; then it will be hard to 
select those who are not of her kind. The first 
object that strikes her eye is our manly figure. After 
looking it well over, she remembers that fat people 
are proverbially jolly and good natured, so she breaks 
into conversation, and about the first question she 
asks is: "Were you always as large as you are 
now?" " Oh, yes ! I was born this size.'' The answer 
causes her to discover she has left out the word " pro- 
portion." So she apologizes, smiles for the first time, 
and we are friends for the trip. 

WILL HE HAVE IT THERE? 

An English tourist registered at one of the Thousand 
Island Houses, Alexandria Bay, asked the clerk for a 
corner room up one flight, on shady side, a special 
hall boy, meals served in room, a bath, and candle 
instead of gas, steam heat and — '-Hold on!" said 
the clerk ; "I think you have made a mistake; this is 
not heaven." 



21 



LORD H. U. MERRIAM, 

was a visitor at Alexandria Bay last season, and 
while he remained put up, from choice, at the Marsden 
House, Alexandria Bay. We were very intimate and 
social during his stay, and I inferred he came where 
I take my meals to see if he could get as fat as I am, 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT ELI PERKINS. 

Some few years ago, Mr. Perkins was a passenger 
on one of the boats. I do not know whether he took 
me for the captain, director or manager of the line or 
not, but he exerted himself considerably to form my 
acquaintance. There was nothing unusual about that, 
however, as there is something ^'•disiiitgue" about me, 
and when on the boat I stand considerably "above 
proof." I have frequently dined at the same table 
with the Governor-General, Lord Dufferin and retinue 
— after his lordship had left. But to return to Eli. 
The day in question I was upon the boat, as usual, 
describing the points of interest, especially the one 
on the Canadian shore, where the St. Regis Indians 
come year after year to gather the famous elm and 
basswood with which to make their celebrated 
baskets. I was delineating at some length upon the 
noble red man, when Eli came to me and said, I will 
write you a verse of poetry about that. Glad to get a 
memento in that shape from so distinguished an 
individual, who had so often been accused of being 
witty, I said it would please me very much. Here is 
the verse. 

" Once here the noble red man took his delights, 

Fit, fished and bled ; 
Now most of the inhabitants are white, 

With nary a red." 



22 



I thanked him very profusely, and on subsequent 
occasions took great delight in repeating the lines to 
the passengers — never forgetting for a moment to 
remind them that they were written for me by the 
alleged American humorist. One day, after deliver- 
ing myself of the poetry and repeating to the passen- 
gers that it was written by the celebrated poet, writer, 
humorist and lecturer, Eli Perkins, I was approached 
by an exceedingly polite and affable gentleman, whom 
I learned was Mr. John H. Rochester, of Rochester, 
N. Y., who asked me if he understood me correctly 
in attributing the authorship of the lines quoted to 
Mr. Perkins. I assured him that he had written them 
expressly for me, and produced in Eli's own hand- 
writing the original copy. With a subdued smile 
resting upon his countenance, Mr. Rochester informed 
me that there must be an error somewhere, as a gen- 
tleman, a Mr. Fletcher, had written a poem in 1834, 
in which the exact verse occurred, and he proceeded 
to repeat the verse from memory. This took me 
slightly back, and I subsequently came to the conclu- 
sion, with " my friend " of the Oil City Derrick, that 
a cabbage leaf was never more at home than when in 
the crown of " Uli Perkins' hat." After that I had 
no more use for the poem, but determined if I ever 
met "Uli" I should call to his mind the circum- 
stances connected with " his little poem." I had not 
long to wait, for one day, while in EvansvilJe, 
Indiana, at the St. George Hotel, I met the gentle- 
man, and recalled the circumstances connected with 
the little verse, and he, with a perfect air of nonchalance, 
said that he had never given it a thought since — 
dashed it off in a minute. I told him how remarkable 



23 

it was that great, minds often run in the same channely 
and related my experience with his gem. He scowled^ 
and, turning on his heel, said it was indeed a singular 
word-for-word resemblance, but changed the subject 
at once, and asked me to his room on the following 
morning, which invitation I cheerfully accepted, dot- 
ing all the evening upon having a nice time, and 
swapping a few gags, etc., etc. ; but my hopes were 
blighted, for the next morning I was informed of his 
very early departure — gone up to lie to the people 
of Rockport, I was told. " Uli " is a great man and 
contracts a larger amount of business upon a very 
small amount of capital than any public character I 
know of. When Eli reads this I expect he will load 
his big gun — not intellectual, but otherwise — and 
come for me. I will, therefore, give him a pointer in 
advance ; there won't anything scare me but a stomach 
pump. 

ALEXANDRIA BAY AS A MECCA FOR 

ALL PERSONS AFFLICTED WITH 

ASTHMA OR HAY FEVER. 

The effect produced almost instantly upon those 
troubled with these diseases is simply marvelous, to 
say the least. You would hardly credit the assertions 
if I should make them. Permit me as an illustration 
to cite one instance which I deem remarkable. Dr. 
Buckley, one of Rochester's noted physicians, was so 
low in August last that he had to be taken on a bed 
from his home to the Rome, Watertown & Ogdens- 
burg railroad and placed upon the cars. He arrived 
at Alexandria Bay that evening. The next morning 
I met him walking on the dock smoking a cigar, feel- 
ing as happy as he ever felt in his life. 



24 

The daughter of an editor of a Rochester paper 
also came here to avoid asthma and remained six 
weeks. She never had the least show or sign of the 
disease while at Alexandria Bay but took an excur- 
sion one day over to Canada and was not on the land 
more than an hour when she was forced to return or 
suffer an attack of hay fever. 

H. R. CLARK, of New York. 

This little volume would not be complete if it did 
not mention his name, not only in connection with 
the fishing at Alexandria Bay, but the facts of his 
having given more time and money towards stopping 
illegal fishing than all the owners of cottages and 
islands combined. He was elected an honorable 
member of the Canadian Fisheries Commission, and 
was the prime mover in forming the Anglers' Asso- 
ciation of the Thousand Islands, and personally 
captured more nets than all others interested. He is 
the most enthusiastic, as well as the best posted 
gentleman that comes to the Islands to fish, and 
knows more about the habits and nature of the finny 
tribe than any other party who comes here to fish. He 
won the gold medal given for the largest and best 
catch of fish for the season of 1885. His standing 
offer to catch ten pounds of fish in a given hour, in 
any day, from the St. Lawrence River, during the 
season, or give ten dollars to any charitable institu- 
tion, I may mention, if he fails. Here is one of his 
catches on an eight-ounce rod, a single leader, a " G" 
line, a fish weighing seventy-eight pounds, girt 
measure twenty-nine inches, length sixty-three inches, 
time in landing one hour and five minutes. Beat this 
and I will tell you more. 



25 



Hon. A. CORNWALL, of Alexandria Bay. 

Cornwall & Walton were the original purchasers 
of the Thousand Islands, in the American channel of 
the river, from the government. Mr. A. Cornwall is 
the survivor of the firm and therefore the father of 
them, and I call him Pa. If you desire any informa- 
tion not in this volume, call on him at the old stone 
stores of Cornwall Brothers, and he will give it to 
you cheerfully. He is an Encyclopedia of facts on 
the St. Lawrence or the Thousand Islands. 

WHAT AND WHO MADE ALEXANDRIA 

BAY. 

In 1872 President Grant visited this delightful spot, 
a guest of Geo. M. Pullman, of palace car fame, 
Pullman Island. There was at that time inadequate 
hotel accommodations, for the tourist as well as the 
visitor who had been drawn to this, the most beautiful 
natural scenery in the world. Messrs. Cornwall and 
Walton, of Alexandria Bay, with their usual display 
of sense and sagacity, as well as business tact, for 
which they have always been commended, offered to 
give the best site on the St. Lawrence to any man 
who would erect upon it a first-class summer hotel. 
Mr. O. G. Staples, of Watertown, N Y., hearing of 
this offer came, he saw, and how he conquered you 
shall know as we proceed with our narrative. Well, 
he concluded to father the scheme. Securing a man 
with money, a Mr. Nott, of Syracuse, the ground, or 
rocli rather, was broken January 14th, 1873, and the 
Thousand Island House was completed and opened 
July 17th, 1873, just six months from the day of 



26 

starting. Rumor says that although their money gave 
out a little above the first story, Staples' indomitable 
will saw it completed and furnished, ready to receive 
guests, just as soon and as well as if he had been a 
millionaire. During the next two years of the part- 
uership of Staples and Nott, everything did not go 
as smooth as a marriage bell, but still they went, and 
in the end Staples had the money and hotel. (I hope 
the reader, if he knows Staples, will not be so unkind 
as to accuse him of parting with all his experience 
and make the pun that he took the money and Nott 
the experience). Staples bought out Nott, and, I 
believe, paid him what was agreed, and he run the 
hotel until April 15th, 1883, when Mr. R. H. South- 
gate (the man of many hotels, too numerous to 
mention here), bought him out. The many changes 
that have been made, and those contemplated, when 
completed, will make this the Mecca of summer 
resort watering places, the Venice of Am.erica. I 
desire to say right here that I hope Mr. Southgate 
will not lose sight of what has in the past made the 
Bay popular as a resort. I like to see the standard 
of visitors raised as well as the prices. I would like 
it to be the place for fish as well as those who love 
the piscatorial art. No dust, no dampness, no malaria 
or hay fever, no mosquitoes; light, dry air, cool and 
bracing. Thermometer never over 80 or below 50 in 
July or August, and one can enjoy what is denied 
them almost everywhere else, a good nine hours of 
cool refreshing sleep under a blanket. Those 
troubled with pulmonary complaints will find great 
relief here. Steamers, steam yachts and sailing ves- 
sels abound, everything to animate the scene and 
enhance the pleasure of visitors is done. Fishing, 



27 • 

fishing boats, bathing, etc., as well as fish abound,, 
and we say here, if you have never been to the Bay, 
come. Mr. Fred W. Lee will personally attend to 
the wants of guests, and if you can be pleased any- 
where I feel confident he is the right man in the 
right place. 

FIFTEEN CENTS, OR TWO FOR A 
QUARTER. 

It is a fact, no matter how strange it may seem, 
Alexandria Bay has more weddings and wedding 
parties than any other watering place in the country. 
According to statistics, there were no more than five 
thousand marriage ceremonies performed in the par- 
lors of the Thousand Island House last season. It is 
a source of great enjoyment to many to watch the 
newly married couples promenade on the spacious 
verandas of the different hotels. A little incident 
occurred last summer which was very much enjoyed 
by the people who were in the immediate vicinity. 
Some mischievous individual dumped a large quan- 
tity of rice in a bride's parasol previous to their 
going on board the steamer. As she was waving an 
adieu to her friends on shore, a sudden burst of sun- 
light caused her to raise her parasol, and the shower 
of rice that went down her worser half's collar caused 
him to stand upon his head several times during the 
day for relief. He seemed to be somewhat provoked 
but used no language of a malicious nature. 

THE LARGE GATHERINGS. 

Round Island Park, Thousand Island Park and 
Alexandria Bay have, at different times, been honored 
by conventions, meetings of associations in conven- 



2i 



tion, pilgrimages, etc., a minute description of which 
would fill a volume ten times the size of this one, so 
I can only mention what is uppermost in my mind, 
the Press Association of Vermont, under the guid- 
ance of S. W. Cummings, Esq., the general passenger 
agent of the Central Vermont Eailroad. He and his 
associates made for them an ever to be remembered 
excursion trip. The Librarians of America stayed 
in the midst of the Thousand Islands three or four 
days. They were, without exaggeration, the most 
refined and educated body of men and women that I 
ever met. The Brooklyn Tabernacle, with its 
thousand pilgrims, were also delighted with every- 
things they saw at the Thousand Islands, and were 
profuse in their expressions of its scenic beauty. I 
met the Rev. Dr. Talmage and had a personal inter- 
view. I don't wonder now that his magnetism holds 
such sway with his Brooklyn audience, and that the 
whole world receives so cheerfully through the tele- 
graph his sermons. 

THEY DO IT EVERY TIME. 

When the average American's postage stamp does 
not stick he storms around and makes the air fairly 
blue until he secures the mucilage bottle and fixes 
the stamp to his latter. Not so with the average 
Canadian. He procures a needle and thread, sits 
quietly down and sews the darned thing on. 

THE HUMORISTS OF AMERICA. 

Most of these jovial, good-natured souls have, at 
some time or other, paid the Thousand Islands and 
the St. Lawrence River a visit, but it would be use- 



29 

less for me to try and remember each and every one 
of them, or their peculiarities. I cheerfully remember 
Mark Twain (Samuel L. Clemens Esq.,) and one of 
the funniest stories I tell was of an evening spent at 
Toronto, while a guest of a friend, and the little 
speech that he made introducing Senator Hawley, 
who was to make a political address at Elmira N. Y. 
He was a passenger down the river. After naming 
over several towns and streets in the Province of 
Quebec, he remarked : " Are they all saints here; no 
sinners?'' 

SALISBURY, 

of the Fall River Advance^ goiiig down the St. Law- 
rence, as a passenger, and his written description of 
the trip, is the most humorous that I have had the 
pleasure of perusing. " Boh" Burdette's, of the Bur- 
lington Hawkeye, description of the Victoria Bridge, 
is very funny. Knox, of the Texas Sif tings, went 
down on the opposition line, so did not have a chance 
to meet him, Eli Perkins you cheerfully remember, 
and I have given a very definite description of an 
interview, in another part of this work. 

REPRESENTATIVE MEN 

of New York, New Orleans, Rochester, Buffalo 
Pittsburgh, Cleveland and Chicago, respectively, 
who occupy cottages, etc., at the Thousand Islands 
during the summer, should be mentioned here, but 
space alone prevents. This little volume is published 
expressly for Tourists who travel, and if it becomes 
large, burdensome or cumbersome, it is useless for 
what it is designed, as a descriptive book of the St. 



30 

Lawrence River. I therefore cannot lose si^ht of 
this fact, and must content myself with publishing a 
book that will contain about i8o or 200 pages. 

H. H. Warner, of Rochester, N. Y.; George M. 
Pullman, Chicago ; W. J. Lewis, H. A. Laughlin, G. 
T. Rafferty, J. S. Laney, of Pittsburgh ; J. C. Covert, 
Ex- Mayor Rose and Mr. J. M. Curtis, of Cleveland, 
Ohio ; Judge Labatt, N. O. ; C. J. Hudson, of New 
York ; Judge Thomas Troy, of Brooklyn ; Hon. R. 
A. Livingston, N. Y. ; M. B. Bettman, of New York ; 
John Lowery, of New York ; L. G. Souen, Mr. J. W. 
White, of White Plains ; H. R. Clark and family of 
Jersey City ; Royal E. Deane, of New York ; last but 
not least, my solid friend Col. T. G. Carnes, of 
Gainsville, Texas, a man after my own heart, and 
weight as well. He says he enjoys himself more 
at Alexandria Bay, and can keep his three hundred 
and ten pounds cooler, than at any other resort in 
America, and when you are about to select a summer 
home think of me and my three hundred and thirty- 
three pounds, and after passing sixteen years on the 
St. Lawrence I have not seen over two days in any 
summer that would cause me, through heat, to wilt 
my shirt collar, which is the best test the heat or 
perspiration can have upon a fat man. Think of this, 
and when you want a cool place come to our island 
home. 

THE PEOPLE WE MEET AT THE 
THOUSAND ISLANDS. 

Visitors going to the Thousand Islands will strike 
the river either at Kingston, Cape Vincent, Gan- 
anoqua or Clayton. The first of the summer resorts 



31 

after leaving Clayton is Round Island, which is 
occupied by the Baptists. The Hotel has been 
enlarged, refitted and refurnished during the past 
winter and the name changed to Hotel Frontenac, 
under the management of E. D. Dickinson, but the 
denominational sectarian barriers have been removed 
the same as at each of the other resorts, and all 
Christians, of whatever sect, or no sect, are welcome. 
Even the dude can revel in his peculiarity. The next 
point is Grennell's Island Park, where is located a 
very nice hotel and a number of fine cottages. 
Beyond is Thousand Island Park. This is occupied 
by the Methodists, and they welcome everyone, 
except on Sundays, when no persons are allowed to 
land on the island. 

The Fine View House, Central Park, and Edge- 
wood Park, have no religious proclivities known to 
me, but " Solomon Isaacs" would not be admitted at 
Edgewood Park unless he would swear that he was a 
*' Quaker." 

Westminster Park was founded by the Presby- 
terians, and is occupied by them and their friends. 
Summerland by the Universalists and their friends. 

Alexander Bay is cosmopolitan, where everybody 
is welcome and can stay as long as they behave them- 
selves and pay their board. 

Now, dear reader, imagine the Baptists, Methodists, 
Presbyterians, Universalists and all their friends 
combined, and now if you want a summer of pleasure 
without any baneful influences, you wouldn't miss it 
in securing the Thousand Islands for your summer 
home, where there are no bad people whatever, such 
as drunkards, loafers, tramps, people of bad repute, 
male or female, and if they should drift in they would 



32 

receive a cool reception among the people of the 
Thousand Islands. It would not require a Pinkerton 
or any other detective to select from among those 
Christian people or their friends any bad character, 
but they come, nevertheless, though their stay is 
short. 

CREDIT TO WHOM CREDIT IS DUE. 

While we have spoken very pleasantly of the epi- 
sode of H. H. Warner and George M. Pullman ; of 
their returning to their respective islands and 
expending over a half a million of dollars in beauti- 
fying them, after wandering from one end of the 
world almost to the other in search of comfort, 
proving conclusively that we have the finest watering 
place in America or we could not retain such men as 
these, I must say a few words in justice to those who 
remained with us during their absence ; who bore the 
burden and heat of the day and lavishly spent their 
money in fitting up their islands to make the Thou- 
sand Islands what they now are. Among those peo- 
ple I will mention A. B. Pullman, C. B. Marsh, H. 
R. Heath, Royal E. Dean, E. W. Dewey, C. H. and 
W. B. Hayden, J. H. Oliphant, A. J. Beckwith, A. 
E. Clark, H. A. Laughlin, C. E. Hill, Hon. W. G. 
Rose, and J. M. Curtis. 

THE WHY NOT! 

I am asked almost everyday why the Canadians do 
not occupy the islands in their channel of the river 
the same as the Americans do. The only answer I 
can give is, that the American comes here to rough 
it, fish and enjoy himself during the summer vacation 
and the Canadians have it rough enough the year 
round, so do not have to come. 



33 



BOYS ON A STEAMER. 

Here is a.genuine. His parents are with him ; he 
cannot keep still ; he wants chiefly to break his neck 
or fall overboard, or to get crushed by the walking- 
beam ; he has been twice dragged from the steps 
leading to the walking-beam used by the assistant 
engineer for lubricating purposes; he would like to 
get in the paddle boxes, has talked every officer on 
board to death, and is now trying his best to worry 
the deck hands. How curiously constructed is a real 
boy, to go whither he should not, and especially 
where his anxious mother most fears he will go ; he 
is now doing his best to spoil his parents' trip. We 
can leave him for a moment ; he won't flag in his 
endeavor to get into trouble or to make his parents 
miserable. 

This is a smaller boy — not yet out of his petticoats, 
but very active; he, too, has with him an anxious 
mother ; he has found another boy — a strange boy, of 
the same size and sex ; they have become acquainted ; 
the strange boy is allowed by his parents to roam 
about the boat at will ; he invites the nice little boy to 
roam also; he wants him to roam as near the walking- 
beam as possible ; he has roamed there before himself 
and escaped ; he tells the nice little boy how cunning 
it is to come near being crushed; the nice little boy's 
mother forbids any roaming at all ; she looks with 
disfavor on the strange boy ; but the strange boy 
continues to hang around ; he knows, so does the 
nice boy, together they can fool any one mother ; 
united they stand, divided they fall ; now the nice 
boy edges away from the side of his mother, for her 



34 

energies are momentarily concentrated on the set of 
her bonnet and the nice looking gentleman at the 
other end of the saloon who is taking side glances at 
her through the mirror. Now the nice boy gets 
farther away; they are on the forbidden part of the 
deck, near the walking-beam. It is great fun. Now 
the cross man who keeps order on the deck drives 
them away. They go to the news agent's stand and 
help themselves to anything on the table when he is 
not looking. They are now running in and out of 
the state rooms, where the passengers have gone, to 
take a little rest, getting in everybody's way; it is a 
wonder they haven't been killed twenty times. It is 
great fun for the boys, but almost death, to the 
passengers. And the mother is still so occupied with 
her bonnet and the dude who has made a mash or 
favorable impression upon her that she has not missed 
her nice little boy. 

SIR JOHN A. Mcdonald, 

who is Canada's prime minister, has been a passenger 
upon the boats, two and three times during each 
season, until his face became a very familiar one to 
me, and I must say that it is as jolly looking as my 
own and about as expressive ; while his is a Roman 
nose, mine is a pug. I remember his first trip down, 
after his election to the premiership, and my saying 
to him : " Now we have a change in politics and in 
government, I shall expect, of course, a position 
under the new government." Sir John A. remarked : 
" Yes, you shall have it. I shall make a change. We 
will have the rivers run the other way so you can be 
utilized day and night to make it pleasant for the 



35 

people without extra pay or allowance." When giving 
my description of Barnhart's Island and the Canadian 
Channel passing around, the settlement of the treatv 
of 1812, and the ratification of the same by Lord Ash- 
burton and Daniel Webster, he asked me if those 
were facts and I said, " Yes, and I am astonished to 
think that you would have to ask me about such an 
important point and treaty." When nearing Montreal 
I had finished giving a description of places and 
points of interest, and had described Bonsecours 
market when he told me that an Irish friend of his 
pronounced it different, he called it "Bone Scowered 
market." 

WHISTLES. 

Very few people can imagine the different whistles 
maintained on the steamers plying the St. Lawrence 
River, but it is a fact that each steamer has a peculiar 
whistle, and many people can tell the name of the 
steamer by its whistle. Take, for instance, the 
Steamer Armstrong, it has a very peculiar whistle, 
and its first impression causes some to laugh, some 
to cry and others to run for the paregoric bottle. 
Her whistle will make more noise- and cause more 
comment than any other steamboat on the river. The 
Van Horn's whistle is more pleasant and musical in 
its tone, and after listening to her for a moment relief 
is so apparent that you feel as if you had secured the 
paregoric bottle and was enjoying its soothing 
influences. The new Island Wanderer, said the 
Captain, will have a whistle different from all others. 
You can stay at the Bay and hear her whistle when 
we are at Echo Point. 



36 



*' GOING THAT WAY." 

Captain Sinclair, of the Steamer Passport, was in 
a fog early one morning just before leaving King- 
ston and one of the passengers remarked to him that 
it was clear above, to which the captain answered, 
"Yes, but unless we have a blow-up we will not go 
that way." 

A GOOD ONE ON CAPTAIN ESTES. 

Everyone familiar with the St. Lawrence River will 
surely recognize the name of Estes, as it is one that 
has been connected with the river for the past forty 
years. Some one of the Utica, N. Y., daily papers 
mentioned Captain Estes of the Steamer St. Law- 
rence as a man extremely polite and scrupulously 
neat in his dress, and very attentive to those who are 
passengers on his boat ; a man who does not chew, 
smoke or drink, nor tell fish stories. An old gentle- 
man, accompanied by his wife and daughter, having 
heard of the captain's reputation, remarked that he 
would like to introduce him to his daughter. The 
gallant captain, who looks very 5^oung for his age, 
answered, " No, thanks, I am a married man." 

THE PHARMACEUTICAL ASSOCIATION 

of the State of New York held their annual conven- 
tion at the Thousand Islands two years ago, and when 
they made their excursion on the Island Wanderer 
around the islands I accompanied them and delineated 
the points of interest on the trip. Just before arriving 
at Central Park they noticed the large twelve-foot 
letters " C. P.," which are used for illuminating posts 



37 

at night, there being hung upon the letters one 
hundred lanterns. Some one asked what the "C. P." 
stood for. I answered Central Park, when one of 
the members, the president's wife, I think, answered 
" 'C. P.' means chemically pure. I never knew it 
to mean anything else but that." This biographical 
incident is intended for druggists only. 

APING CUSTOMS, MANNERS, ETC., OF 
THE ENGLISH. 

This is done to a great extent, not only in Canada, 
but I am sorry to say in Free America, better known 
as the U. S. I cannot find any fault with the average 
Canadian, who is, as it were, governed by Queen 
Victoria, and must have some reverence for royalty, 
in the aping of their manners and customs, but in 
this land, where we have an abundance of Queens, 
Princes, Lords and Sovereigns who are not flattered 
by titles, but bear their honors meekly, all are royal 
born and bred. Speaking of titles reminds me that 
at home I am plain Edward F. Babbage, or " Phat 
Boy" (I spell it with " Ph " because it does not sound 
so greasy), but the moment I leave home, say for a 
trip through the South, I am called Captain for the 
first few hundred miles, then a little way on it 
becomes Colonel, and when I get to Georgia it is 
Major; in South Carolina it is Judge or General, 
until I get to Florida, and I havfe heard them say 
there, "Great God, is that you?" But we diverge. 
Returning to the aping of the manners of Princess 
Louise, I wish to say right here that I firmly believe 
that it did the Canadian people a great amount of good, 
but fail to see where the people of the United States 



could be benefited. I was told that at Kingston the 
Princess asked for her strawberries in a box with the 
hulls on, and when placed before her she took them 
up by the stem between the thumb and finger and bit 
the berry off and placed the hull on the plate. Now 
everybody does the same ; previous to her visit they 
used to hull and wash them before placing them on 
the table. The same with grapes. They used to 
wash them in a goblet of water at the table before 
eating them ; now they take the grape between the 
thumb and finger, press it to the lips and squeeze 
gently, and juice as well as insides are soon on the 
way to digestion, and the skin laid away on the plate 
as the Princess did. Asparagus — it is almost pain- 
ful for me to see Canadians eat in as many ways as 
there were people at the table, in fact, no two ate it 
alike until after the Princess came ; now everybody 
takes it by the hard green end, between thumb and 
finger, and putting it into the mouth, close the teeth 
down upon it and draw it gently from the mouth, 
leaving all that is digestible within, and the remainder 
is laid on the plate. The Princess once took a walk 
through her kitchen at Rideau Hall, Ottawa, took 
the vegetable cook to task for washing fresh picked 
peas from the vine that had just been shelled, saying- 
it was nonsense, if your hands are clean, to wash a 
virgin pea. 

'' WE ARE SEVEN." 

And they were in fact, as well as every other way, 
seven of the finest gentlemen 1 ever met. They passed 
down the St. Lawrence River its full length from 
Kingston to the Gulf, bent on sight-seeing and pleas- 



39 

ure, and when you read over the names you will 
know that each received his full share : John H. 
Rochester, Charles E. Fitch, George H. Humphrey, 
D. M. Dewey, William F. Peck, Charles P. Boswell, 
Alexander Thompson. 

WE CALL THEM TRAMPS. 

During the Centennial year many foreigners were 
always found among the list of passengers from every 
country. The proverbial English tourist cannot be 
mistaken by any, but this year, 1876, we had many 
who were too green or unsophisticated to be in that 
class. Now this truthful occurrence which I am 
about to relate is original and occurred upon one of 
the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation Company's line 
of boats. The Englishman was relating to his newly 
found friend his opinion of the United States, etc., in 
his own peculiar style. " Hi don't like this blarsted 
country, you know !" "Why," said his friend, "what 
fault can you find with America ?" "Oh, Hi've been all 
over it, you know, and can't find any sawciety there." 
" Society," said his friend, " what do you mean by 
society ?" " Oh, dear me, you have no gentlemen or 
gentlemen's sons in h'America." " Why, what do you 
mean by gentlemen and gentlemen's sons ?" " Oh ! 
Hi mean gentlemen who never did any work, you 
know, nor their sons, either." " You make a mistake 
there, my worthy friend, we have millions of them 
here, but we call them tramps, and 1 have often thought 
it the best definition 16 a tramp I ever heard, for if there 
are gentlemen and their sons here who never did any 
work they will soon make good timber for tramps, if 
they are not already." 



40 



"NOT A GEORGE WASH." 

He had told several very improbable stories bor- 
dering upon the Eli Perkins order, and then remarked 
to a friend that he could not tell a lie. But the friend 
replied that he could the moment he heard it, and to 
the best of his judgment he had told several. 

ROUTE OF THE STEAMER "ISLAND 
WANDERER." 

The dock from which the " Island Wanderer" leaves 
for her daily excursions around the Islands, morning 
at 8, afternoons at 2:15, is in front of Cornwall 
Brothers' Stone Store, where tickets and all informa- 
tion may be had relative to any route by either rail or 
boat, to any part of the globe. Taking your position 
upon any part of the boat that will allow you to face 
the bow, upon your right will be Hart's Island, 
Westminster Park Dock and Freight House, which is 
located at the lower end of Wells' Island — this island 
ten miles long by four wide. A little above, hid by 
a cluster of trees, is the residence of John Winslow, 
next is Imperial Isle, owned by Mr. J. C- Singer, 
of Chicago, 111. The next is Linlithgow, owned 
by the Hon. R. A. Livingston, of New York. The 
next cottage on bluff is owned by Miss Lucy J. 
Bullock — the cottage a little above is owned by 
Prof. A. G. Hopkins. Next is Florence Island. 
Near the water edge is the boat house of St. Elmo, 
and the conspicuous slate-colored cottage above and 
wind-mill below, is owned by Mr. N. W. Hunt, of 
Brooklyn, N. Y. It is presumed you have taken in 
the above panorama before starting. Immediately 



4T 

after starting, on the left, you pass the Thousand 
Island House and Little Staples Island — around the 
point is Otter Creek, Edgewood Park and Martin's 
Cottage. The Edgewood Park Company have erected 
an elegant hotel and several cottages are being built 
by the members of the company, who form a sort of 
social club for their families and friends, care being 
exercised in the selection of members as well as 
visitors, and if the project is carried out, as it is con- 
templated, this Edgewood Park will be the summer 
home of some of the best people in America. On 
the right is Friendly Island, containing cottage, boat 
house and lookout, owned by E. VV. Dewey, of New 
York. Next above is Nobby Island, owned by H. R. 
Heath, of New York. Opposite, on the left, is Cherry 
Island (the reason they call it " Cherry " is because 
they raise their own strawberries from which they 
make their celebrated custard pies). The Island con- 
tains Ingleside Cottage and Melrose Lodge, owned 
by Mr. A. B. Pullman and C. B. Marsh, of Chicago, 
111., also J. T. Easton's Villa, called Stuyvesant Cot- 
tage, and Rev. George Rockwell's Cottage. Opposite 
on the right, is the famous Pullman Island, "Castle 
Rest,*' where George M. Pullman spent one hundred 
and fifty thousand dollars last season on buildings, 
etc., and presented the whole Island and surroundings 
to his mother on her eighty-fourth birthday. Also, 
where. Gen. U. S. Grant visited in 1872. Next, West 
and Safe Point, which are on Wells' Island. On the 
left is the famous Devil's Rock and Oven of historic 
fame. It is said that here is where Bill Johnson hid 
himself, as there is an opening in the rock large 
enough for the usual fishing boat to enter with its 
contents and be completely hid from view. This is 



42 

what is called the Oven, and it resembles the old form 
of Dutch ovens. Beyond, on the left near the main 
shore, is Cuba, owned by W. F. Story, of Buffalo, 
N. Y. Opposite, on the right, is Craig's Side, owned 
by H. A. Laughlin, of Pittsburgh. Next, on the left, 
is Hill's Island and boat house, owned by C. E. Hill, 
of Chicago, 111. Next, on the left, is Warner's Island- 
On the right is Palisade Point, owned by A. J. Beck- 
with. Next, on the left, is Comfort Island, owned by 
Mr. A. E. Clark, of the Chicago Stock Exchange 
Mr. Clark has lavishly expended a large amount of 
money for "Comfort." It is joined to Neh-Mahben, 
meaning twin lakes or islands, owned by J. H. 
Oliphant, of New York. On the right is Louisiana 
Point, owned by Judge La Batte, of New Orleans, 
La. I desire to apologize for stating in a previous 
edition that Judge La Batte was dead. He came to 
death's door, and was so low that his physician had 
called his family to his bedside to witness his last 
mom'ents, when he motioned to his son to come near, 
and drawing his ear down close to his lips, he whis- 
pered, "Take me to my summer home on the St. 
Lawrence." They started from New Orleans, La., 
the next day and he arrived at Louisiana Point in 
July, and the day of this writing, August 20th, he 
had gained sixteen pounds in flesh and was feeling 
quite strong and happy — a gentleman, living like the 
*' Thane of Cawdur." Opposite, on the left, is Kep- 
pler Point, Buena Vista Lodge, owned by a gentleman 
from Cleveland, O., who purchased it last season. 
On the right is Seven Isles, owned by Gen. Bradley 
Winslow. Mclntyre's cottage, " Photo," is in Dins- 
more Bay, next to Seven Isles. On the left is an 
Indian Camp and Allegheny Point, owned by J. S. 



43 

Laney, of Pittsburgh, Pa. A little above is Gypsy 
Island, owned by J. M. Curtis, of Cleveland, O. Rose 
Island is connected with Gypsy Island by a beautiful 
rustic bridge. Rose Island and cottage is owtied by 
W. G. Rose, Ex-Mayor of Cleveland, O. Opposite, 
on the right, is Shady Covert, a beautiful villa owned 
by J. C. Covert, Editor of the Cleveland Leader. On 
the right is Point Vivian, a delightful spot occupied 
by a stock company, mostly from Evans' Mills, N. Y. 
Opposite, on the right, is Island Royal, owned by 
Royal E. Deane, of New York. Behind Royal is 
Holton's Cottage, also owned by Royal E. Deane, 
Above, on the right, is Hill Crest, owned by General 
Shields, of Philadelphia, Pa. 

Nothing of interest right or left for the space of a 
mile except Lindner's Island, until we come to Cen- 
tral park (Woodbine and Crest Cottages are located 
here), where we make our first stop for passengers. 
The next island is owned by J. F. Moffit, of Water- 
town, N. Y. — Brown's Bay on the right and Swan's 
Bay on the left. A little above on the left is Little Cal- 
umet, owned by J. D. Green, of Boston, Mass. Above 
on the main shore, is the cottage of J. B. Collins, 
Opposite, on the rfght, may be seen the celebrated 
Limburger Cheese Factory. Opposite, on the main 
shore, left, is the farm and house of Capt. Jack ; the 
mill and dock somewhat dilapidated. Opposite is 
Island Blanch and cottage, E. D. Buckingham, 
owner. A little opposite is Paul's Dock and Sunny 
Side, with three other villas; also a dairy farm, 
which, from its fine looking barns, sheds and house, 
must be considered very prosperous. Peel's Dock 
having being rebuilt, was memorable as the spot 
where the vessel " Sir Robert Peel " was burned in 



44 

retaliation for the "Caroline" bein^ sent over Niagara 
Falls. Next on the right, "Jolly Oaks,"Twin Cottage 
Home, Pleasant View and San Souci's, four cottages 
and dock. The pretty little summer house on the Island 
passed, we arrive at Fern Cliff cottages and dock. A 
large stone cottage was erected here two seasons ago, 
called Hiawatha Cottage. This is for sale. Beautiful 
villas, camps and cottages line the banks on the right, 
among which is Fair View, owned by Mr. Butterfield, 
of Redwood, N. Y., until we arrive at Fine View. 
Opposite, on the left, is Fisher's Landing, Robinson 
Island, Johnson's Light and Cottage, Hemlock, Cedar 
and other Islands around the point, and we come in 
sight of Thousand Island Park — located at the upper 
end of Wells' Island, owned and controlled by the 
Methodists ; the neatest, most orderly and attractive 
resort among the Islands. Something should be said 
here regarding this, the most celebrated spot among 
the Thousand Islands. As it is impossible, from my 
limited knowledge, to do the subject justice, and, as I 
cannot steal, clip, borrow or plagiarize from my 
other work, I can only say, stay over one day, or until 
the boat comes back, and look over this delightful 
spot. 

Again, on our way we pass the head of Wells' 
Island, and have a view on the right of the finest 
avenue in the Park, a long line of boat-houses, and a 
number of steam yachts, sail and fishing boats, wind- 
mills, etc., etc. Beyond, on the right in the distance, 
is Hemlock Island and Hotel, owned by Mr. Garrison, 
of Syracuse. The large body of water on the right 
is Eel Bay. On the right is Grennell's Island and 
House, where the boat stops for passengers; beyond, 
on the right, is Otsego Point and cottages. We next 



45 

pass two cottages, after which Pickton Isle. Next is 
the Burg group ; beyond are the Packingham Islands ; 
in the distance on the left is Round Island Park and 
Hotel ; many magnificent cottages line the shores all 
around the island. This is a favorite resort of the 
Baptists. On the right is Little Round Island, and 
on the left in the bay is Washington Island ; opposite 
on the right is the celebrated Calumet Island, owned 
by Chas. G. Emery, of Old Judge cigarette fame. 
In the distance, front, is Clayton. The depot and the 
docks of the R., W. & O. R. R. are located here. 
Opposite is Gov. Alvord's Island. After leaving 
Clayton, on the left you will have a view of Prospect 
Park and Hill, a delightful resort. Next on the left, 
as we turn, is Blanket Island, on the right is Grind- 
stone and Club Island ; next on the right is Whiskey 
Island, on the left opposite is Ambler's Point; beyond 
is the celebrated Wolf or Long Island, the largest of 
the Thousand Islands, being twenty-one miles long ; 
next is Hickory Island. We now cross the dividing 
line, after which many islands appear, all sizes and 
shapes, until we come to Ross Dick Island ; beyond 
is Burnt Island; light in the distance is Red Horse 
light; opposite, on the right, is Kalaria, owned by 
Prof. Castle of Toronto, Canada, and occupied by 
Wilmot Castle and his brother Arthur, and families, 
this season; Wilmot Castle & Co. of Rochester, N.Y., 
— the manufacturers of the Arnold automatic cooker. 
We have used one in our family for the past five 
years, and I think more of it than I do of "my mother- 
in-law," and she was one of the best women that ever 
lived. 



46 



AMONG THE ISLANDS. 

It must not be supposed that these hundreds of 
islands are all occupied and have cottages on them, 
or laid out with walks or fountains. For every 
island that has a house on it there are perhaps twenty 
that have none. The number of houses are increasing- 
every year, and I think that in time nearly every 
island will be occupied in the Canadian Channel as 
they are in the American. We next arrive at 

GANANOQUE. 

Here the captain announces a stay of twenty -five 
minutes for refreshments, remarking, also, that it 
takes twelve minutes to walk up town and twelve 
minutes back, with the remainder for refresh, which 
seems to my mind a little too fresh. Leaving 
Gananoque on time, we will return by the Canadian 
channel, which is more wild and picturesque, as far 
as scenery is concerned, although not one island or 
point is inhabited here to one in the American channel. 
On the right is Kipp Island. Passing many beautitul 
islands and lighthouses, we arrive at Halstead's Bay 
— after passing which the islands come thick and fast, 
all sizes and shapes, from a little one for a cent to 
those done up in bunches, like asparagus, and you 
get a bunch for five. We pass very close to Ash 
Island, so near that moss has been plucked by pas- 
sengers on the boat. We soon arrive at Lind Light, 
on the right, and are coming to the Fiddler's Elbow. 
Lay this book aside at this point and feast the eye, 
for no writer could do the subject of a description 
justice. The King of Dwarfs, Gen. Tom Thumb, was 
a passenger on the Wanderer one day when he asked 



47 

the captain why he could not have an island. The 
captain, with his usual generosity, gave him one just 
his size, and to commemorate the event has placed a 
monument there to his memory. We soon emerge 
from our land, or island-locked channel, and approach 
Darling's Dock. The dock is visible, but we have 
never seen the darling — after which comes Echo 
Point, where you can hear as many echoes as you pay 
cents fare. Passing a farm-house on the right, we 
soon arrive on the left of Rockport ; here you will 
observe we have but two seasons of the year, Ice and 
Rock; this is the Rocky season. Turning to the right, 
we make direct for Westminster Park. Looking 
backward over the left shoulder, you will have a view 
of Idlewild and Sport Islands, formerly owned by the 
Packers, of Pennsylvania, now owned by H. C. 
Wilber, Pres. of the Lehigh Valley R. R. & Coal Co. 
A better view of those islands may be obtained after 
leaving Westminister Park for Alexandria Bay. After 
passing the point, Hayden's Island, Fairyland comes 
in view. The little island, with cotfage, is owned by 
Mr. Hasbrock, of Ogdensburg, N. Y., called Pike 
Island. The next on the right is St. John's Island, 
owned by Judge Donahue, of New York. The next 
on the right is Manhattan group, owned by Judge 
Spencer and Hasbrock, of New York. A wooden 
bridge joins them together. This is the first island 
inhabited for recreation, and was bought by Seth 
Green, the fish culturist of New York State ; on the 
left is Long Beach, Anthony's Point (the Ledge 
owned by C. J. Hudson, of New York) and Bonnie 
Castle; on the right is Dishler and Hart's Island. We 
next arrive at Alexandria Bay, from which we started 
almost four hours ago. 



48 



*'YES ! A GREAS-Y STATUE." 

" How much do you weigh ?" Well I am asked that 
question many times every day, and as I am not sen- 
sitive will say my weight is three hundred and thirty-, 
three pounds in the shade, just one pound for every 
mile between Toronto and Montreal via Grand Trunk 
Railway. The reason why I say the shade, is because 
there has never been raised a mathematician with the 
ability to compute the weight of a grease spot, and 
were I compelled to remain in the sun very long 
would make one, and do not care to mislead people 
into an error. The fat of this land is about as 
unequally distributed as the wealth. Those who ain't 
got it want it; those who have it, have too much. I 
am therefore a Vanderbilt in grease, have a corner in 
lard, as it were. 

'* DO YOU GO OUT FISHING?" 

Well, not often. You see, this ponderous body of 
mine does not fit tlie average fishing boat. My fears 
are not all bound up in that one fact, nor in the satis- 
faction that if the boat should upset that I would not 
sink, but the fear that is indelibly photographed upon 
my mind, that as I would float, and being so large, 
some steamboat captain or pilot would take me for 
an island, lay alongside and let the passengers off" for 
a little picnic or an hour's pleasure. Think of it. 

YACHTING. 

Water — and as one enthusiastic writer puts it— such 
water ! — is abundant, and to enjoy this water in a 
pensive or poetic mood, the steam yacht should be 



49 

brought into requisition. Private yachts are numer- 
ous and elegant, and it is to the credit of the owners 
that they are not niggardly in exhibiting a spirit of 
generosity and courtesy. They are constantly inviting 
individuals and parties to enjoy the exhilarating 
excitement of the shooting around the beautiful 
spots. And if you, dear tourist, have no friend that 
invites you to share a cushioned seat in his graceful 
fairy like craft, then go to Capt. E. W. Visger, on the 
New Island Wanderer^ who will take you on an excur- 
sion among the Islands that you will gladly recall as a 
cheerful reminiscence of your St. Lawrence excursion, 
for the opportunity will have been offered to bring 
within the range of your vision enchanting scenes 
that pen isnotadequate to describe, but by purchasing 
one of the " Phat Boy's" Pictures of the St. Lawrence, 
you will be possessor of the only correct map, a 
perfect guide to the river. 

''WOULD YOU BELIEVE IT?" 

A gentleman from London came on board the boat 
at Kingston one morning, rushed up to me and said, 
" Mr. Babbage, how do you do ! Why, you cannot 
imagine how glad I am to see you ! Why, do know 
that before I left ' Home' a lady invited me to take 
tea at her house, and when I told her I was coming to 
America she never stopped talking about you for over 
two hours ; it is a great relief to meet you, I assure 
you." Meeting upon the street one afternoon, a very fine 
looking old gentleman, he said, *' Hold on a moment, 
1 have something to tell you. I have just received a 
letter from my daughter who lives in Australia, she 



50 

said she found one of your books upon the table at 
her friend's house where she was visiting, so she 
enquired how it came there. 'Why, bless your soul, 
we took a trip with him down the St. Lawrence River 
and he made it pleasant for us for eight hours and I 
would Dot part with the book for an interest in the 
profits of the ' new version ' or revised edition.' " 

A lady wrote me from Trenton, N. J. : " While at 
Alexandria Bay, in 1883, 1 bought a copy of the ' Phat 
Boy's' Delineations of the St. Lawrence River (I 
think of the Author from the picture on the cover). 
Have read it over and over to my friends until it is 
completely worn out, can you forward me another 
copy ?" I did as requested and at the same time 
enquired what pleased her friends most, and she said 
in reply, that it was all good, but the articles upon 
myself were the most pleasing to her. I must, there- 
fore, send her a copy of this, my last effort. The 
latter part of May I met a gentlemen at the Sturte- 
vant House, New York, while visiting Mr. J. C. 
Matthews, the proprietor, who said, " how do you do, 
Mr. Babbage. I presume you do not remember me, 
but while at the Thousand Islands last season, and 
before going to Montreal, I purchased of you one of 
your books, and it would be an injustice not to tell 
you that we had more real pleasure and profit from 
its perusal than any one thing on our trip. I desire 
to thank you, and my wife would do the same were 
she here. The book is almost worn out ; more than 
fifty of our friends have read it. I want another 
copy ; if 3^ou will not send it, I will come to Alexandria 
Bay and get it." 



51 



H. H. WARNER AND GEO. M. PULLMAN. 

Two of nature's noble men. Two of the greatest 
benefactors of the human race. Two of the greatest 
men born in New York State. One the inventor of 
the celebrated Pullman Car that has given ease, rest 
and comfort to the whole enlightened world. The 
other, the Warner's Safe Cure, which has given relief 
to millions of sufferers from Kidney and Liver disease. 

Each in turn are spending a small portion of their 
immense wealth in building suitable cottages upon 
their respective islands, "Warner's" and "Pullman's," 
which they expect to occupy during the coming 
season. When such men as they are, do what they 
intend, it will prove to the world that the Thousand 
Islands, as a watering place, has no equal, and by 
next season we may look for a " boom " beyond our 
greatest expectation. 

THE LOTUS SEEKER. 

This tidy little craft made its first appearance on 
the St. Lawrence two seasons ago and is owned by Mr. 
Holden, of Buffalo, N. Y., who has a very beautiful 
cottage at Thousand Island Park. Many times during 
the season she could be seen plying in and out among 
the islands, comfortably filled with invited guests of 
her owner and passing every thing moved by steam 
power. I felt quite badly one day while taking a 
ride upon one of the "cracked" yachts, to be passed 
so quickly by the " Lotus Seeker," that I did not have 
time to say good-bye to my friend, J. W. Burdick, 
Gen. Passenger Agent of the D. & H. R. R. Co., who 
was one of her passengers. 



52 



MR. SAM. SONDHEIM. 

How well I remember his first visit to the Thousand 
Isles, accompanied by several friends, all of whom 
are expert fishermen, Messrs. Ehrich Bros., of 8th 
Ave,, 24th and 25th Sts., Messrs. Max and Harry 
Stadler, of Broadway, N. Y. Well, Sam was the 
most amateur of all amateur fishers, but he soon 
became infatuated, and as good luck followed each 
and every effort, " Sam " became almost desperate. I 
never saw one so much '•''enthused.'' Why, he tele- 
graphed home three times and had his vacation 
extended. At last he was so lucky he beat all the 
experts, broke all the records and cheerfully left foi 
home, sighing, however, to think he had no more 
conquests to make. Years have passed since then, 
and now he is numbered among the expert fishers of 
the Islands. 

WALTER H. GRIFFIN, 

who for many years was room clerk at the Thousand 
Island House (now connected with Hotel Marlbor- 
ough, New York), was the winner of the prize for 
the largest pickerel catch of 1884. It was caught 
within one hundred yards of the hotel and weighed 
eighteen and three-quarter pounds. 

MR. J. C. MATTHEWS, 

who was the manager of the Thousand Island House 
in 1884, is enquired after by visitors more than any 
other person. I hope to be saved some trouble, as 
well as time, by stating here that he is the proprietor 
of the Sturtevant House, N. Y. If you visit the city 
give him a call. 



53 



LORD DUFFERIN, 

one of Canada's former Governor-Generals, and in 
my opinion, the best they ever had, was a passenger 
down the St. Lawrence many times while I was guide 
to the River. How well I remember some one asking 
him why he left Toronto and his comfortable quarters 
at the Queen's Hotel to come to Montreal. He 
answered by stating, that over across the lake in the 
United States, they had just had an election, the 
Tilden and Hayes campaign, and as it was impos- 
sible to tell who was really chosen by the people, 
he was afraid they, the people, would rise in their 
might, send a deputation over to Toronto, kidnap 
him and place him in the presidential chair. Then 
what would become of Poor Little Canada ? 

GEORGE WARREN SHEPARD, 

formerly a Utica dry goods merchant, and now asso- 
ciated with his brother in Winter street, Boston, 
Mass., made the Thousand Islanr's his home many 
summers. I well remember one evening at Clayton, 
having just met and talked over old times, (we were 
in the minstrel business at one time, say twenty-four 
years ago), when an old countryman from 'way back 
came up and interrupted our conversation by asking 
what made those smooth tracks on the water. I was 
about to remark that it was the wake of some vessel 
or steamer, when George, to guy the farmer, said : 
" They were the tracks made by sleighs during the 
winter and were not taken up when the ice went out.** 



54 



ALL NATIONALITIES BENEFITED. 

It improves even the Italian to visit Alexandria 
Bay. We had one there last season who washed his 
face thiee times a day and ate his meals at the table 
like a Christian. 

"A LITTLE ONE ON PERKINS." 

Two gentlemen at the Thousand Island House one 
day were talking, when the subject of truth was 
approached, and one of them who stammered, said, 
" There are t-t-three great li-liars i-i-in America.'* 
The friend said, " Who are they ?" " O-o-one of t-t-them 
i-i-is T-T-Tom Oc-Oc-Ochiltree of Te-Te-Texas, and 
th-th-the other two is E-E-Eli Perkins." 

VISITORS AT THE THOUSAND ISLANDS 

who desire to see Montreal and return by boat (their 
time being limited), the following information will be 
of interest. All passengers arrive in Montreal 
between six and seven o'clock p. m., as there is little to 
see at night and very little time to see it in. The boat 
leaves her dock, Canal Basin, to return, every morn- 
ing at 9 o'clock except Sunday. You can remain in 
Montreal until the 12 m. train for Lachine from the G. 
T. R. Station, (by taking the train, fare 25 cents, you 
will arrive at Lachine in time to take the boat and 
enjoy your dinner while passing through Lake St. 
Louis). Should you desire to prolong your stay, 
remain in Montreal until the 5 p. m. train leaves same 
depot for Coteau Landing. A carriage in waiting will 
take you to the boat, fare from Montreal, including 
carriage, $1.25. You will take passage from there at 



55 

seven o'clock, and have your supper on board of boat 
while passing through Lake St. Francis. It takes 
the boat sixteen hours longer to come back than to go 
down (reason they are compelled to pass through the 
Lachine, Beauharnois and Cornwall canals, which con- 
sumes the time). All passengers arive at Alexandria 
Bay, every day, between one and two o'clock p. m., 
except on Monday. 

WHAT I KNOW ABOUT CATCHING FISH. 

During last Summer I was at Alexandria Bay, NY., 
and took note of some of the best catches of fish, but I 
have not the space to record them. Let me say that 
anybody can catch fish of the following varieties any- 
where in the St. Lawrence River : Rock bass, black 
bass, perch, pike, pickerel and muscalonge. I have 
caught, off the dock at the Bay, in less than two hours, 
a black bass weighing three and one-half pounds and 
a pickerel weighing over six pounds. The largest fish 
caught last season was a muscalonge, weight 38 lbs., 
caught at an Island opposite Rockport. A pike 7^ 
pounds, black bass 5^ pounds, a pickerel 13 pounds. 
Several fishing parties out for one to three days brought 
in such enormous catches that if I mentioned them 
they would be called fish stories. 

Respectfully yours, E. F. BABBAGE. 

^'I OWE YOU AN APOLOGY," 

Dear reader, because since the first edition of this work 
it has claimed that there are no mosquitoes at Alexan- 
dria Bay, but on at least three occasions when the wind 
was in a certain direction we were visited last year 
by at least a dozen or so. After a thorough search of 



56 

three weeks, unable to find the cause, we were abcut 
to give It up when, to our astonishment, we discovered 
it. Upon looking up the hotel register we found that 
the hotel opened that year with twenty-seven guests, 
all from New Jersey. Comments are unnecessary. 
We found relief in attending Sunday School, and after 
the usual exercises were gone through with a collec- 
tion was taken up for the poor. The teacher, desir- 
ing to show the aptness of her pupils, asked each one 
as he put his mite into the box to recite an appropri- 
ate verse from the Bible. The first lad said, "The 
Lord loveth a cheerful giver," placed his mite in and 
took his seat. The second one said, " He that giveth 
to the poor lendeth to the Lord," and proudly took 
his seat. The third boy, more worldly than the rest, 
remarked, "that a fool and his money soon parted" — 
He will sit down, if he can, at home. 

A REAL LIVE DUDE 

was at the Bay last season, and I must give him credit 
for one thing, if I could not for having either money 
or brains, but will say he was very attentive to the 
ladies, and it may be said to his credit, he never tried 
to cut me out. One fine morning he induced three of 
the nicest young ladies at the Bay to take a boat ride, 
and for the privilege of their company agreed to do 
the rowing himself. They had been out upon the 
water for some time, and he had done the rowing 
heroically, but getting into the strong current, his 
physical development was being tested to its utmost, 
when he asked the young ladies " if it would not be 
better for him to hug the shore." After a pause of a 



57 

minute, the girliest girl of the ^roup exclaimed : 
*-Well, if you can't find anything better to hug, do for 
heaven's sake ' hug the shore ! ' " 

LOST HIS NAME. 

But he is the most venerable looking man I ever 
saw, and he struck terror to the mind of the *'Hall 
Boys" and waiters at the Thousand Island House. 
More than one of them told me that he must be 
one of the patriarchs of old, either Moses, Elias 
or Aaron, come back to the earth looking just as he 
left it. Said another, ^' I was bound to ask him his 
age so as to see if it was or not one of those old 
fellows." I met him on the Quebec boat, had a very 
pleasant chat with him ; his name I have forgotten, 
but he is Editor of the Madison, Wis., Journal, been 
a member of Congress, and was traveling for 
pleasure. 

E. B. WARREN, OF PHILADELPHIA, PA., 

with his wife and daughters, have in the past paid the 
St. Lawrence River many visits, and been mentioned 
by me for their fish catches. One day in particular 
they brought in and exhibited at the Thousand Island 
House, i8 small mouthed black bass weighing 
seventy-four pounds. Since the completion of "The 
Sagamore" on Green Island, and the building of an 
elegant cottage there, he stays at home, and I am con- 
tented with the old proverb, "Tho' lost to sight to 
memory dear." 



58 



E. G. GILMORE, 

New York's greatest Theatrical Manager, has enjoyed 
many seasons of pleasure at Alexandria Bay. The 
last time I saw him, he wanted to know how it would 
do for him to bring his whole corps de ballet to the 
Thousand Islands for a season's recuperation, " don't 
you think it would give them vigor, such good brac- 
ing air as you have up there ? " 

MESSRS. RAYMOND AND WHITCOMB, 

America's greatest Excursion Agents have probably 
brought more people to the St. Lawrence River, than 
have come indirectly from the reading of the several 
editions of my book that have been issued during the 
past seven years, which is saying a great deal for 
them. I hope to have the pleasure of meeting more 
of their select parties during the coming season. The 
Detroit News excursion should not be forgotten, they 
have been angel visits, however, for the past two 
year. 

MR. AND MRS. CHAS. MAC EVOY, 

of New York, have been visitors at the Thousand 
Islands many times. Mr. MacEvoy has persevered and 
after many years succeeded in producing '' Glazed 
Kid" the most superb of shoe materials, " out vieing 
France." My Auntie May, who weighs two hundred 
and sixty-five pounds, after wearing a pair of shoes 
four months made of this material, says, "the wearing 
qualities of the glazed kid produced the best results 
of any she ever wore." One season, with a New 
York friend, they caught the largest catch of black 
bass I ever saw brought in by amateurs. 



59 

DR. PERRY OF THE UNITED STATES 

HOTEL, 

Saratoga Springs, caught the largest muscalonge of 
the season. As the fishing is much better every 
year, on account of all illegal fishing with nets. having 
been stopped, I hope to see them again at the Bay, as 
well as all other lovers of fishing. 

THE NAMES OF THE INHABITED ISLANDS, 
POINTS AND COTTAGES 

In the American Channel of the river, alphabetically arranged : 

A 

Allegheny Point J. S. Laney. 

Arcadia and Ina S. A. Bnggs. 

Alice Col. A. J. Casse. 

B 

Bergshire Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Bay Side. H. B. Mosher. 

Bonny Eyrie Mrs. Peck. 

Bay View C. S. Lyman. 

Belle Island Rev. Walter Ayrault. 

Bella Vista Lodge R. B. Chisholm. 

Bonnie Castle (iVIain L*nd) Mrs. J. G. Holland. 

Birch Island W. J. Lewis. 

c 

Covert J. C. Covert. 

Cloud Rest A. H. Greenwalt. 

Chillon A. H. Greenwalt. 

Calumet Chas. G. Emery. 

Cedar Island J. M. Curtis. 

Comfort Island A. E. Clark. 

Craig Side (Wells Island) H. A. Laughlin. 

Crescent Cottages (Main Land) Bleecker Van Wagenen. 

D 

Devil's Oven H. R. Heath. 

Deshler Island W. G. Deshler. 

Deer Island Hon. S. Miller. 

Douglass Island Douglass Miller. 

Dinglespeil Joseph Babcock. 

E 

Elephant Rock T. C. Chittenden. 

Easton, Stuyvesant, Cherry Island James E. Easton. 

Edgewood Park Edgewood Park Association. 

Edgewood Cottage G. C. Martin. 

Ella Island R. E. Hungerford. 

Excelsior Group C. S. Goodwin. 

F 

Frederick Island C. L. Fredericks. 

Fisher's Landing Mrs.R.Gurnee& Miss Newton. 

Friendly . E. W. Dewey. 



6o 

Florence Island H. S. Chandler. 

Felseneck Prof. A. G. Hopkins. 

Fern N. & J. Wilson. 

Fairy Land C. P., C. H. & W. B. Hayden. 

G 

Governor's Island Hon. T. G. Alvord. 

Gun Island H. H. Warner. 

Goose Island Mrs. Lottie Simonds. 

Gypsy Island J. M. Curtis. 

H 

Helen's Island Mrs. O. G. Staples. 

Hemlock Hon. W. F. Porter and V/ilson. 

Hub Island George W. Best. 

Holloway's Point Nathan HoUoway. 

Harmony Mrs. C. Berger. 

Hub Clark Island Will Clark. 

Hart's Island Hon. E. K. Hart. 

Huguenot L. Hasbrouck. 



Isle Helena Mrs. Helen S. Taylor. 

Isle of Pines Mrs. E. N. Robinson. 

Island Royal Royal E. Deane. 

Island Gracie Miss G. Fox. 

Ingleside (Cherry Island) G. B. Marsh. 

Imperial Island Mr. R. L. Singer. 

Island Mary W. M. Palmer. 

Idlewild Mrs. R. A. Packer. 

J 

Jefferson Island E. P. Gardiner. 

Jolly Oaks (Wells Island) Prof. A. H. Brown and others. 

K ^ 

Killien's Point Mr. J. Killien. 

Kit Grafton Mrs. S. L. George. 

L 

Little Calumet Oliver H. Green. 

Lone Pine Comstock & Co. 

Little Charm Island Mrs. F. W. Baker. 

Look Out Island Thos. H. Borden. 

Little Lehigh C. H. Cummings. 

Little Fraud R. Pease. 

Long Branch Mrs. C. E. Clark. 

Little Delight L. W. Morrison. 

Long Rock W. F. Wilson. 

Little Whortleberry Mrs. L. E. B. Brown. 

Lattimer Dr. C. E. Lattiraer. 

Lindner's John Lindner. 

Louisiana Point Judge La Batte. 

Little Gem Mrs. V. Walton. 

Little Angel W. A. Angell. 

Linliihgow Hon. R. A. Livingston. 

Lily's Island L. B. H, Morrison. 

M 

Maple Island Joseph Atwell. 

Minium Rev. W. W. Walsh. 

Melrose Lodge (Cherry Island) A. B. Pullman. 

Manhattan J. L. Hasbrouck, J. C. Spencer. 

Maple Island J. L. Hasbrouck. 



6i 
N 

Nemah-bin • ■ ■■ • J; H- Oliphant. 

Nobby Island H R. Htrath. 

Nett's Island W. B. Hayden. 

o 

One Tree Island )y^ll\^"?,.^^ug^^- 

Occident and Orient t- W Washburn. 

Ours Island ; Mrs. M. Carter. 

P 

Peel Island Mrs_^^ S P. Lake and others. 

P. ,int Vivian K- T. Evans and others. 

Photo Island A- C Mclntyre. 

Pullman Island ^,^°''^,* ^- t?",, , "* 

Point Lookout (Wells Island) Miss L. J. Bullock 

Picnic Island Westminster Park Association, 

Point Marguerite '(Main Island) R. Anthony. 

Pike Island Frank F. Uickmson. 

Palisade Point .'.'.'.'.".'."." ^ /. A.J. Beckwith. 

Q 

Quartett Island ^.. Mrs. W. Eagan. 

Rob Pny Island A. H. Greenwalt. 

River Side Islaad James C. Lee. 

TLesort Island W. J. Lewis. 

Round Island Baptist Association. 

s 

Schooner Island ^•.^•J^P^^Tw* . . 

■Sunbeam Group Odd Fellows of Watertown. 

Spuyten Duyvel Alice P. Sargent. 

Sumer-Land Summer-Land Association. 

Sunny-Side Island W- Stevenson 

Seven Isles Hon. Bradley Winslow, 

Sunny Side' (Cherry Island) Rev George Rockwell. 

Safe Point (Wells Island; H H. Warner. 

St Elmo N.H.Hunt. 

Su'n- Dew' island Chas. RI. Slamm. 

St. John's I]''^?^ £?,K° • 

Sport Island H. C. Wilber. 

Two Islands, Eel Bay Dr- E. L. Sargent. 

Twin Islands 1 L Huntington. 

Throop Dock Dr. C. E Lattimer and others. 

The Ledges ^''^ J>^- a^^'^-T 

Thousand Island Park Methodist Association. 

u 

Una Island Mrs. M. E. Steele. 

V 

Vanderbilt Island J- B- Hamilton. 

Tilula Island H. Sisson. 

w 

Walton Island J. N. & G. H. Robinson. 

West View Island Hon. S. G. Pope. 

Welcome Island JJ°"-^- ^-oFn^^'ii 

Whortleberry Island Mrs. Etta Stillwell. 

Watch Island Mrs Elizabeth Skinner. 

Waving Branches H. S. Ainsworth. 

Wild Rose S°"xi^xr^-^°'^- 

Warner Island J?- J^'t^^if "^''• 

Wau Winet V', * H L 

West Point John Mathews. 



R 



OUTE 



A. 



¥ 



H 



V 



H 




KJ ± 



H 



N. Y. C. & H. R. P. R., LESSEES. 



THE TOURIST ROUTE TO THE NORTH. 



While many suppose that both sides of the Hudson 
River present equal attraction — and it would be hard 
to decide vvhich is the most beautiful — it is a curious 
fact that all, or nearly all, the noted summer resorts 
for which the country adjacent is famous are located 
on its western bank. Thus, starting from New York 
and following up the West Shore Route, we find the 
Palisades, Tappan, Rockland Lake, Stony Point, 
Cranston's, West Point, Cornwall, Lakes Mohonk 
and Minnewaska, the Catskills, Saratoga, Mount Mc- 
Gregor, and the Adirondacks. 

i 

HOW TO REACH KAATERSKILL. 

The West Shore railway connects with the Ulster 
and Delaware railroad at Kingston, New York, thence 
the journey is made to Phoenicia via the Ulster and 
Delaware Railroad. At Phoenicia connection is made 
with the Stony Clove Railroad and Kaaterskill Rail- 
road to Kaaterskill Station, the terminus of the 
Kaaterskill Railroad; making a through all rail route 
to the top of the mountain. 

62 



^3 

HOTEL KAATERSKILL AND ITS ARTI- 
FICIAL SURROUNDINGS. 

There it is upon the topmost peak of the mountain 
from which it takes its name, three thousand feet 
above the sea-level, and from its broad porches com- 
manding views of ten thousand square miles of the 
valley of the Hudson, with sixty miles of that, the 
most beautiful river in the world, in the foreground. 
Looking northward the Adirondacks are seen stretch- 
ing away from the base, eastward the Green Moun- 
tains and the Berkshire Hills, and to the south the 
Highlands. It is only from the peaks of the Pacific 
Slope that views of greater breadth and grandeur of 
beauty are to be obtained, but upon them there is no 
Hotel Kaaterskill to offer its hospitality to the tired 
tourist or loiterer by pleasant ways, nor are they 
within a few hours of the great Eastern centers of 
population, as the Hotel Kaaterskill is. Pay it a visit, 
dear reader, and enjoy the hospitality of its manager, 
Mr. W. F. Paige, and his assistants, and I know you 
will be pleased. 

In addition to the above points of interest, 
the traveler may be conveyed to Lake George, Lake 
Champlain and Montreal on the north.; Sharon Springs, 
Cooperstown, Richfield Springs, Thousand Islands and 
the Lake Region of Central New York. Then take the 
New York Central Railroad from the Grand Central 
depot and proceed on the world renowned four-track 
road to Utica where direct connection can be made with 
theUticaand Black River branch of the Rome, VYater- 
town and Ogdensburg Railroad, which in a few hours 
will bring you to the majestic scenery of the St. Law- 
rence. At Clayton you take one of the beautiful 



64 

steamers of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation 
Company, direct from Montreal, or continue on by- 
rail to Rochester, where connection is made with the 
elegant side- wheel steamer Sylvan Stream^ presided 
over by the old veteran Captain James B. Estes, which 
leaves Charlotte, N. Y., every Tuesday morning, com- 
mencing July 9, 1889, upon the arrival of the train 
from Rochester. This steamer will stop at Oswego, 
Clayton, Round Island, Thousand Island Park and 
Alexandria Bay, where we arrive at 5:30 o'clock in 
the evening. In returning we leave the bay Thursday 
and arriving at Charlotte in time to connect with the 
evening trains on the N. Y. Central to Rochester, 
Syracuse, Utica, etc., or we can continue onto Buffalo. 

BUFFALO, N. Y. 

It is with great pleasure, and assurance that you 
will be pleased, that I advise tourists to make a stop 
over at the Niagara Hotel, Buffalo, N. Y. There is 
not a tourist's hotel in the country to compare with it 
for location, vie V and surroundings. The conserv- 
atory, promenades, music, in fact every appointment, 
is first class. All that need be said in this connection is 
that the whole institution is under the personal super- 
vision of Henry F. Roesser. That is volumes in its 
praise. Pay it one visit, you are sure to come again 
and recommend your friends. Buffalo is connected with 
Toronto by the Grand Trunk R. R., the new route 
leaving Erie depot at 8:45 A- ^-j ^7 ^^^^ ^^ Port 
Dalhousie, connecting with the steamer for Toronto, 
arriving at 1:30 P. M., connecting with Royal Mail 
Line for Thousand Islands and Montreal, or proceed 
by rail to 



65 



NIAGARA FALLS. 

When visiting this wonder of wonders at any season 
of the year, stop at the Spencer House. It is first 
class and under the management of A. Hector 
Gluck. You are sure to be satisfied in every 
way. Trains leave Niagara Falls everv mornings 
Sundays excepted, by Grand Trunk R. R. direct for 
Toronto, arriving in time to connect with the Mail 
Line for Montreal. Trains leave Niagara Falls every 
morning, except Sunday, at 9:45 A. M. via Central 
Hudson branch for Lewiston. Any information 
relative to the route or the purchase of tickets will 
be cheerfully given upon application to Mrs. L. Bar- 
ber, who can be found at room No. i of the Interna- 
tional Hotel Building. 

At Lewiston connections are made with the fast 
sailing side-wheel steamboats 

CHICORA AND SABOLA, 

making three trips daily across the beautiful Lake 
Ontario, arriving at Toronto in time to connect with 
the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company for 
Kingston, Alexandria Bay, Thousand Islands and 
Rapids of the St. Lawrence to Montreal. 

TORONTO, 

the capital of the Province of Ontario, is situated on 
a circular bay of the same name, and was founded by 
Governor Simcoe in 1794, and we advise all tourists 
to make a stay of one or two days here. It is the only 
Americanized city in the Dominion of Canada. The 
Queen's Royal Hotel, situated at Niagara on the Nia- 
gara river, and the Queen's Hotel, at Toronto, are pre- 



66 

sided over by Messrs. McGaw and Winnett ; this is 
enough in their praise — if you stop at either of these 
hotels you will surely be pleased. If you desire a car- 
riage while in the city, Telephone No. 109, R. Bond's 
livery, who has everything first-class in that line. 

PORT HOPE 

is situated 65 miles from Toronto. A small stream, 
which here falls into the lake, has formed a valley, in 
which the town is located. The harbor at the mouth 
of the stream is shallow, but safe and commodious. 
Port Hope is a pretty town; on the western side the 
hills rise gradually one above the other. The highest 
summit, called "Fort Orton," affords a fine prospect, 
and overlooks the country for a great distance. The 
village is incorporated; population about 5,114. A 
direct route to Rochester by the Steamer Norseman 
leaves this port every morning, except Sunday, call- 
ing at Port Hope and connecting with Grand Trunk 
train from Toronto every week day morning and 
arriving in Rochester the same afternoon. The Grand 
Summer Excursions of the Norseman from Rochester 
to Alexandria Bay leave Rochester every Saturday 
afternoon and passing through the 1,000 Island 
scenery of the St. Lawrence River, arrives at Alex- 
andria Bay in time for dinner, giving the passengers 
about five hours at the Bay, and returns to Rochester 
early on Monday. I have advised many of my friends 
to make this trip, all of whom have expressed them- 
selves as delighted. 

COBOURG, 

seven miles below Port Hope, contains 6,000 inhabi- 
tants. It has seven churches, two banks, three grist 
mills, two foundries, and the largest cloth factory in 



67 

the Province. It is also the seat of Victoria College 
and Theological Institute. Midway between Port 
Hope and Cobourg is "Duck Island," on which a. 
lighthouse is maintained by the government. 

FROM KINGSTON TO MONTREAL. 

The Mail Line, or Richelieu Co. 's boats, leave 
Kingston every morning at five o'clock. As we pro- 
ceed down the river, a description of the city will be 
in order. 

Kingston has a population of 15,000, was founded 
in 1672, by Governor De Courcelles, receiving the 
name of Fort Cataraqui. Later, a massive stone fort 
was built by Count De Frontenac, and received his 
name. In 1762 the place was taken by the British, 
who gave it its present name. As a place of defense 
it stands next in strength to Quebec. The batteries 
of Fort Henry are calculated for the reception of 
numerous cannon and mortars of the largest calibre. 
These, together with neighboring martello towers, 
form a formidable defense against any aggressive 
movement which might be directed against the city. 
These fortifications are seen to excellent advantage 
from the steamer soon after it leaves the dock. 

On the right is Garden Island; on the left. Cedar 
Island, and behind is Fort Henry. There is here, 
also in view, the round stone towers referred to above. 
Near the middle of the river is Wolf, or Long Island, 
21 miles long, and 7 miles wide near the western end. 
There is nothing either of romance or historical 
episode to weave into our story, concerning the 
inhabitants of this, the largest of the Thousand Island 
group. Suffice it to say, that the territory is a portion 



68 

of the Dominion of Canada, and that the habits of 
civilized life characterize the people. Between one 
channel and the main land there is St. John's or 
Howe Island, of no mean proportions. 

Ordinarily, we have now spent about one hour on 
the steamer from Kingston, and come to the point in 
the channel where we must diverge either for Gana- 
noque or Clayton. We are bound for Clayton and 
the American channel of the St. Lawrence River. 
(For description of Gananoque and the Canadian 
channel, see Route of the Island Wanderer, page 40.) 

The time is early morning, the sun quite bright, 
and the atmosphere remarkably clear. The scene is 
now attractive. Look ahead in the distance a little 
to the left, and you will behold the eagle tree. Hun- 
dreds have been deceived with the idea that it was an 
actual live eagle, spreading its wings and soaring 
aloft to a height that the imagination can scarcely 
reach. It is a delusion ; 'tis nothing but a tree, as 
its true features, or rather beautiful foliage, has 
deceived the eye of the novice of this region. 

On the left is Grindstone Island. On it is an organ- 
ized community. The inhabitants are farmers, and for 
the education of whose children a school is main- 
tained. On the right is Clayton. 

It may be well to state here that authorities (?) differ 
as to how many Islands there really are. Some say 
fifteen hundred ; some eighteen hundred, and others 
carefully write, nearly two thousand. Life is too 
short for us to stop and count these natural beauties, 
and even the pilots have no desire to win fame as 
statisticians by asserting the correct number. The 
" Phat Boy" has just issued the only correct map of 



69 

the St. Lawrence River published, which will not be 
misleading to the student of the minute details. But 
we digress. 

CAPE VINCENT 

is a pleasant little village in Jefferson county, N Y., 
at the junction of Lake Ontario and the St. Lawrence 
River. It is also the terminus of the Rome, Water- 
town and Ogdensburg Railroad, and connections by- 
steamer to Alexandria Bay.« Connections are made 
to Kingston by Steamer Maud. 

Let us here describe the American channel from 
Cape Vincent. 

As we steam out of this port, on the left is Long, 
or Wolf Island, 21 miles in length and 7 miles in 
width. The next on the right is 

CARLETON ISLAND. 

At the upper extemity the land narrows into a 
rugged promontory, ending in a bluff sixty feet in 
height. Here, lifting their ruined heads aloft, and 
plainly visible to all passers along the river, stand a 
number of toppling and half ruined chimneys. These 
may be seen for miles around. So long have these 
old sentinels watched over the scenes around them 
that their history is lost in the misty past. Around 
them are the remaining ruins of an old fort, supposed 
by many to be the ruins of old Fort Frontenac. 
Around its old redoubts and parapets linger anti- 
quated historical legends and traditions enough to 
fill a volume, and forming an interesting study. An 
ancient well, cut in the solid Trenton limestone 
down to the level of the lake, has been converted by 



70 

the reckless imaginations of the natives into a re- 
ceptacle of the golden doubloons which the French 
soldiers, upon evacuating the old fort, are said to 
have thrown there, with the brass guns on top of 
them. Upon either side and immediately in front of 
the bluff upon which the old fort stands, is a quiet, 
pretty little bay, which may once have supplied a safe 
and easy anchorage for the vessels that lay under its 
protecting guns. 

The fortress is supposed to have been one of im- 
portance as a military post at some time, having been 
built upon an excellent plan and in the most substan- 
tial manner. Numbers of graves still occupy a field 
near by, the remains of the brave soldiers who once 
occupied the fort. The scene is of deep interest to 
the student of history. This Island has been pur- 
chased by the Folger Brothers, and used for pic-nics 
and pleasure parties. 

About six miles this side of Clayton is Lindsay 
Island, the only one on the right between Cape Vin- 
cent and Clayton. 

CLAYTON 

is in the American channel. In the distant front, 
just before landing, we have a magnificent view of 
Prospect Park and hill, a delightful spot for recrea- 
tion and pleasure. No better view can be had of the 
islands and surrounding country than from the emi- 
nence of the hill. Clayton is our first stopping place. 
It IS a village that derives its importance to tourists 
as being the terminus of the R., W. & O. R.R., Utica 
and Black River Division, and here it it is where 
passengers from the East generally get their first 



71 

glimpse of the St. Liwrence. There are three 
good hotels, the Hubbard, Walton and the West End ; 
kept by as genial landlords as ever lived, and from 
the town many fishing parties go out daily. The 
steamer St. Lawrence runs from this port in con- 
nection with the above named railroads to Alexandria 
Bay and other landing places en route. Opposite 
Clayton, on the left, as we proceed down the river, is 
Governor Island, owned by Hon. Thomas G. Alvord, 
of Syracuse. Next to Gov. Alvord's Isle, on the left, 
is Calumet, five acres, owned by Chas. G. Emery, ot 
Old Judge cigarette and tobacco fame, who has lav- 
ishly expended a large amount of money for comfort. 
His villa and apartments are quite striking, having 
f,ooo feet of dockage and a stone wall all around the 
island, 4,300 feet — the only island having an elevation 
of 35 feet and a perfect soil, all productive. He pur- 
chased the steam yacht Calumet, said to be one of the 
fastest yachts on th-; river. The next island on the 
left, about 200 yards distant, is Powder Horn. The 
origin of this "euphonious" name has not been handed 
down by tradition. On the right is Washington 
Island; on the left, nearly opposite, is Bluff Island ; 
behind which is Robin's Island. Next, on the right, 
over two miles from Clayton, is 

ROUND ISLAND 

and park. This is the property of the Baptist Asso- 
ciation, and every year people of this persuasion in 
large numbers, gather for religious worship and 
recreation. There is a hotel, fitted up with the 
modern appointments, for the accommodation of 300 
guests, named the ^'Hotel Frontenac." The docks are 



72 

in excellent condition, and the fishing boats are 
favorites. On the left is Little Round Island and 
"Hog's Back.'"' We have now several cottages in 
view ; the one painted dark brown is owned by Mr. 
Harbodle. On the point is Ethelridge cottage, and 
many others not known to me, as they spring up as 
quickly as mushrooms do in an open field. 

Leaving Round Island, and looking in the distant 
front, we have a view of the Thousand Island Park. 
About one mile from Round Island, on the right, is 
Watch Island or " Indolence," owned by S. T. Skin- 
ner. On the left are Bluff, Maple and Hemlock, the 
three pretty islands fronting the foot of Grindstone 
Island. On Hemlock is the Cliff House, ovvned by 
Mr. Garrison, of Syracuse. About five minutes after 
leaving Round Island, we come on the left in sight of 
Hub Island. A large hotel, the Hub house, occupied 
this site, but was burned in March, 1884; Grinnell's 
Island and House ; Otsego Camp is also on the left. 
On the right is Fisher's landing, Robinson's Island, 
owned by Eugene Robinson, New York, banker and 
broker, (he broke Drew). This island was purchased 
last year by W. C. McCord, ofNew York. Johnson's 
Light, Washburn Island and Frederick Island. Mr. 
Johnson, the original light-house keeper, and after 
whom the island is named, was the man who burned 
the Robert Peel, the English vessel, in retaliation for 
sending the Caroline over Niagara Falls. 

Just before landing at Thousand Island Park, upper 
end of Wells Island, is Twin Island, owned by J. L. 
Huntington. On the left, and in connection with the 
Thousand Island Park, is the bath house, (in a dilapi- 
dated condition), where the Methodists formerly 



73 

received baptism, a la Boblngersoll, with soap. Said 
to be good for this world, if not hereafter. We now 
land at 

THOUSAND ISLAND PARK. 

The boat stops at the western end of Wells Island, 
at a fine wharf and close to a large number of hand- 
some cottages. YoQ can tell what the place is the 
minute you approach it. There is no mistaking a 
Methodist Summer Camp, find it where you will. It 
is always neat and clean and orderly. This is the 
Thousand Island Park, a Methodist resort, opened in 
1873. Although the scenery is somewhat marred by 
the great numoer of solemn-faced clergyman strolling 
about the grounds, it is still one of the most beautiful 
spots to be found among the islands. Camp-meet- 
ings are held here ; also Sunday school and temper- 
ance and educational conventions, and other meetings 
all through the summer. A large and spacious hotel 
was opened July loth, 1883. The name was originally 
Thousand Island Camp ground, but was changed in 
1878 to its present name. 

Again on our way, the first house on the left is 
owned by Harlow J. Remington, of Ilion, N. Y., 
whose fame and fortune are in rifles. Next on the 
left is Wellesley House and beautiful cottage. On the 
left, handsome villas line the shore of the island. 
About half a mile from Fine View House is Jolly 
Oak Point, with its four cottages, two owned by the 
Norton brothers, a third by Dr. Ferguson, and the 
fourth by Hon. W. W. Butterfield, of Redwood. From 
here to Lookout Point is about half a mile ; and next 
is Rood's place, with a fine dock and good accommo- 



74 

dations for tourists. About two hundred yards below 
is Peel's dock, where the boat Robert Peel was burned 
in 1837. This dock was rebuilt in 1884. Robbin's 
cottage, one hundred feet to the left, is Island Blanch, 
owned by E. D. Buckingham; a little below on the 
right is the farm of Captain Jack ; you can see the 
old saw-mill in a dilapidated condition on the bank. 
Opposite on the left is the celebrated Limburger 
cheese factory. (Post mortem examinations held 
here weekly.) (This *' goak " would take better if you 
were just introduced to Limburger for the first time)* 
On the right is Collins' dock ; below, a few feet, is 
Calumet Island and cottage, owned by Oliver H. 
Green, No. 6 Calumet court, Boston, Mass. On the 
right lies the remains of old Captain Jack's Boat, 
gone to rest. * * * * Here you are expected to 
drop a tear. Brown's Bay on the left and Swan Bay 
on the right. The next island on the right is owned 
by Mr. Moffet of Watertown, N. Y. Passing the 
bays, we come on the right to Central Park, formerly 
Grinnell's Point and parade ground, purchased by 
parties and laid out for a park. Several large and 
beautiful cottages were built last season and many 
contemplated for this season. On the left opposite 
on the bluff, is Hill's Crest, owned by General Shields, 
of Philadelphia, Pa. Foot of Central Park is Page 
Point, a former wood station for the N. T. Co.'s line 
of steamers. On the right is 

POINT VIVIAN. 

Point Vivian is situated on the main shore of the 
St. Lawrence River, about two and one-half miles 
from Alexandria Bay. It was formerly owned by 



75 

Captain W. H. Houghton, and was purchased by 
Messrs. George Ivers, John J. Kinney, Isaac A.Wood, 
Dr. L. E. Jones, R. Barnes, Rezot Tozer, and E. 
Hungerford, in the fall of 1877 (all of Evans Mills, 
N. Y.). They had it surveyed into forty building 
lots, with parks, avenues and streets. A magnificent 
dock was built, two hundred feet long, and any boat, 
from a skiff to an ocean steamer, can land here. 

Opposite Point Vivian on the left is Island Royal, 
owned by Royal E. Deane, of New York, firm of 
Bramall, Deane & Co. Mr. Deane is a very enthusiastic 
lover of the scenery as well as the hunting and fish- 
ing in this vicinity, coming to this, his summer home, 
quite early in the spring, and often remaining until 
winter fairly sets in, for nowhere else can he get such 
a variety of fish and game, and have the surroundings 
so agreeable. Next on the left is Shady Covert, 
owned by Editor J. C. Covert of the Cleveland Leader. 

After leaving Point Vivian, on the right is Curtis 
Point and cottage, which joins Rose Island by a 
bridge. Here is where ex-Mayor Wv G. Rose, of 
Cleveland, O., enjoys his summers. The next is Alle- 
gheny Point, owned by J. S. Laney, of Pittsburg, 
Pa. The fence was built to keep the children from 
falling into the river. Opposite on the left is Seven 
Isles owned by Gen. Bradley Winslow. Next on the 
right is Keppler Point, Bella Vista Lodge, owned by 
F. A. Bosworth, of Milwaukee, Wis. This property, 
Bella Vista Lodge, was sold last year to Mr. R. B. 
Chisholm, of Cleveland, O. Centennial, now Nah- 
Mahbin, meaning Twin Island or Lakes, is owned by 
Mr. J. H. Oliphant, of Brooklyn, N. Y. Comfort, in 
close proximity, is owned by A. S. Clark, of the 



76 

Chicago, 111., Board of Trade. His is the largest and 
finest cottage of the group. Next is H. H. Warner's 
Island, upon which $50,000 has been expended in the 
erection of his new cottage. Beyond this is Hill's 
Island, also Devil's Rock and Oven. This gentleman 
has expended a large amount of money in building a 
stone wall around the same, and in many ways beau- 
tifying the surroundings. Beyond is Louisana Point, 
owned by Judge LeBatte, of New Orleans. Next on 
the left is Craig's Nest, owned by H. A. Laughlin, 
of Pittsburg, Pa. On the right is Cuba Isle, owned 
by W. F. Storey, of Buffalo, N. Y. A little further 
on is Edgewood Park, owned by a Cleveland stock 
company, who erected an elegant hotel which was 
opened in 1887, and contemplate many changes the 
coming season ; also Edgewood Cottage, owned by 
G. C. Martin, of Watertown, N. Y. Next on the right 
is Cherry Isle, upon which are erected several 
cottages; one is owned by the Rev. George Rockwell, 
of Fulton, N. Y.; and J. T. Easton's villa, of Brooklyn, 
N. Y. Last season Mr. Easton, of Brooklyn, erected 
a handsome villa, called Stuyvesant Cottage, which 
he occupied during the season. The two large 
cottages are owned by A. B. Pullman and C. B. 
Marsh, of Chicago, 111. — named Ingleside and Mel- 
rose Lodge. Here the Hon. John A. Logan and wife 
were entertained for several days in 1885. Opposite, 
on the left, is Pullman, Nobby, Friendly, St. Elmo, 
Welcome, Florence, Linlithgow and Imperial. This 
group may be seen in the order given ; beyond is 
Westminster Park, Hart's Island, Fairy Land and 
Dishler. We now shoot into 



77 



ALEXANDRIA BAY, 

which is three or four miles long and one and a half 
miles wide, reaching from the shore, on the American 
side, to Wells Island. The chief feature around here 
is the grand hotels — the largest known as tlie 
Thousand Island House, the finest building on ihe 
St. Lawrence River, which for the past six years, 
under the presidency of R. H. Southgate, Esq., and 
his able corps of assistants, Fred W. Lee, manager, 
P. G. Whipple, William Emery and Dod Dorcy, has 
been a grand success. Your slightest wish will be 
gratified, and you will be better pleased this year 
than ever before. From the bay fishing parties are 
constantly going out. The channels about the 
islands are the Paradise of fishermen. The boats are 
the most convenient and comfortable in the world, 
the boatmen the most accommodating, and the pickerel, 
pike and gamy black and rock bass and muscalonge, 
in the greatest abundance. 

WESTMINSTER PARK. 

Opposite the Thousand Island House is Westmin- 
ster Park, on the lower end of Wells Island. This 
island is eight miles long and from three to four miles 
wide. On the other side of this island is the Cana- 
dian channel of the river, about half a mile wide. 
The lower end of the island is separated into two 
parts by one of the prettiest sheets of water that ever 
rippled against the bows of a canoe. This is called 
the " Lake of the Island," and it is connected with the 
river on both the American and Canadian sides by a 



78 

narrow channel. The lake is five or six miles long, 
as smooth as glass, and is altogether too pretty and 
too romantic to attempt a description. 

Westminster Park was bought in 1874 by a Presby- 
terian stock company, and it now has about 15 miles 
of drives and some fine buildings. It has two long 
water fronts — one on the American side of the river 
and the other on the Lake of the Island, on the Cana- 
dian side. There is a high hill on the island called 
Mount Beulah, though after climbing it I think the 
HilJ Difficulty would be a more appropriate name. 
There is a large chapel on the top of the hill, known 
as Bethune Chapel, with seating accommodations for 
a thousand persons, and with a tower 136 feet high, 
(was blown down in March, 1885,) affording a beauti- 
ful view of the river and the islands. The name of 
the chapel recalls the fact that the late Rev. Dr. Geo. 
W. Bethune was the pioneer tourist through this 
region, and until his death continued to come here 
summer after summer for recreation. 



BONNIE CASTLE. 

*' Timothy Titcomb" (Dr. J. G. Holland, editor of 
Scribjiers Monthly)^ chose this point as a haven of rest 
and recuperation, and who does not commend his 
choice? It will be remembered that he died in New 
York shortly after leaving his cherished Bonnie 
Castle in i88i,for his arduous winter's labors. Next 
is The Ledges, owned by C J. Hudson, of New York 
Lighthouse in the distance. 



79 



A LETTER FROM MONROE A. GREEN. 

This space was formerly occupied by a letter from 
Mr. Seth Green, but as he departed this life last year, 
we utilize it with one from his brother, upon whose 
shoulder his mantle has fallen. 

STATE FISH HATCHERY, I 

Superintendent's Office, Mumford, N. Y., May 2cth, 1889. ) 

My Dear '' Phat Boy:" 

Yours, requesting a line from me about the mag- 
nificent and boundless St. Lawrence and its fisheries, 
received. For a river, its size is only measurable by 
your own as a fellow-man, and the tourist, after a 
glance at you, can gain an adequate idea of the mag- 
nitude of the father of rivers. In 1856 I spent several 
months in fishing on the St. Lawrence^ in the vicinity 
of Alexandria Bay. That was before the water had 
been depleted or decreased in the number ot finny 
occupants. Since that, on many and many an occa- 
sion, I have taken salmon trout spawn for propagation 
near Wolf, Pigeon Islands and Charity Shoal. One 
day, with a trolling spoon of my own manufacture, 
in 1878, I caught 64 salmon trout ! Thirty-four of 
them filled my boat so full that I dare not put another 
one in for fear of sinking the cralt — and had to go 
ashore to unload. Jonathan Mason was rowing for 
me. To offset this great catch I have since put into 
the St. Lawrence and its tributaries a million of 
salmon and California trout, and have put millions 
of whitefish into Lake Ontario. During the season 
of t88o I put in 100,000 California Mountain trout. 
Fishermen without number have written me that 



8o 

these efforts to restock the river have been successful. 
In pointing out to tourists the best fishing grounds, 
please don't magnify this true fish story, and let your 
patrons gain the impression that I am a man chosen 
like yourself in corporosity and story telling. 

Yours truly, 

Monroe A. Green. 

PARTIES LEAVING ALEXANDRIA BAY 
FOR MONTREAL TAKE DESCRIP- 
TION FROM HERE. 

Immediately opposite is Hart's Island; back of 
which is Deshler. Next on the left is 

MANHATTAN, 

the first island on which habitation was attempted. 
It was bought by Mr. Seth Green, the fish culturist of 
N. Y., in 1855. He built a cottage upon it and for 
several years spent his summers here. Mr. J. L. Has- 
brouck and Judge J. C. Spencer, of New York, pur- 
chased it from him. They have spent 115,000 upon 
the island. The original cottages built by Seth 
Green still remain and are used by them as dining 
room, etc. 

Between Deshler and Manhattan, looking back- 
ward, is Fairyland, owned by C. H. and W. B. Hay- 
den, of Columbus, Ohio. This is really one of the 
finest islands in the river. At a vast expense art has 
triumphed over nature, transforming a barren into 
the loveliest of green lawns. Next on the left is 
Deer Island ; then 



8i 



SUMMERLAND. 

Summerland, one of the most beautiful groups of 
the " Thousand Island," is located mid-way between 
the north and south channels of the St. Lawrence, 
about three miles below Alexandria Bay, having an 
area of fourteen acres, and is the largest of the "Sum- 
merland group," which includes "Idlewild," "Sport," 
"Ida," and "Arcadia." The island is covered with a 
dense forest (furnishing an abundance of shade) and 
is said to have the finest groves on the river. At the 
extreme northerly and southerly ends of the island 
there are extensive sandy beaches, a great rarity in 
this locality, which are used by the "Summerlanders" 
for bathing purposes. The island is traversed from 
end to end by the most delightful natural avenue, 
densely shaded and lined on either side with a thick 
undergrowth of wild flowers and ferns. The island 
is owned by the Summerland Association, a corpora- 
tion organized under and by virtue of the laws of the 
State of New York. 

Between Deer Island and Summerland is Cedar ; 
back of Cedar is Sport, owned by the estate of H. A. 
Packer, who died in 1884. The island, however, will 
be occupied this year by H. C. Wilbur, who has pur- 
chased the Packers' interest. Anthony Point is on 
the right. Also The Ledges, owned by J. C. Hudson, 
of New York. This place is the resort of E. and T. 
H. Anthony, the extensive dealers in photographic 
goods in New York. 

Still continuing our course looking to the right, is 
the cottage of Mrs. Clark, of Watertown. Next, 
Goose Bay is the island owned by Dr. Carleton, near 



S2 

which is the Three Sisters' Island ; before the Three 
Sisters' is Hume's Island. Next, on the left, is 
Whiskey Island, and on the right opposite, are a 
number of large and small islands, the names of 
which we will not weary the tourist's brain with. 

Goose Bay is really beautiful, if its name is slightly 
homely. It is studded with islands and fishing 
abounds. It is here that Mr. Hubert R. Clark, of New 
York, in one day caught some 300 pounds of black 
bass, ranging in weight from i}4 pounds to 6^ 
pounds. 

On the right is Lyon's dock and Meeker's Island. 
Next, on the left is Three Sisters Light; in the 
Distance is Lone Star, or Dark Island ; Island No. ro, 
it is called by some. After passing, on the left is 
a small cluster of island shoals. On the right is 
Chippewa Bay. This is a superb sheet of water, where 
the fishing is a marked feature. It is a favorite resort 
of Ogdensburg people, who occupy the contiguous 
islands. This property, "Chippewa Point" and Allen's 
Park and dock, has been purchased by a wealthy 
syndicate who propose erecting a commodious Hotel 
and each member building for his own use a hand- 
some villa. I look to see this the grandest resort 
among the Thousand Islands. All around the shore 
are camps, cottages, etc., and make an animated scene 
for the tourist. Three miles from Chippewa Bay on 
the left is Crossover light ; thence, three miles to 
Cole's light on the left, where we enter the Canadian 
channel. Nine miles in the distance is Brockville. 
On the right opposite Cole's light is Oak point. 
Below is Allen's landing, a very popular place for 
picnics, etc. On the left, a prominent blufif. On the 
right for six miles the islands come thick and fast ; 



83 

huge rocks rise from the water's surface, with very 
little vegetation or foliage, and the boat makes her 
way rapidly among them, winding around like a 
snake, heading for all the points of the compass, 
frequently getting herself into coves and bays that 
apparently have no outlet, but always finding a 
channel, and sailing triumphantly out into the broad 
waters again. 

A little beyond is St. Lawrence Park, used for 
pleasure and picnic parties, especially by our Canadian 
friends of Brockville. We are now at the village of 
Brockville. 

In front of Brockville are the last three of the 
Thousand Islands; being some distance from the rest 
it is presumable they drifted away, and finally 
rooted here. This, however, was "long befo' de 
wah ! " 

Opposite, on the right, is Morristown, a small, 
lively American village, of about i,ooo inhabitants, a 
station on the Utica and Black River R. R., connects 
with Brockville by two steam ferries. 

BROCKVILLE 

was named in honor of General Brock, who fell in 
the battle of Queenstown Heights in 1812. It is 
situated on the Canadian side of the St. Lawrence 
River, and is one of the pleasantest villages in the 
Province. It lies at the foot of the Thousand Islands 
on an elevation of land which rises from the river in 
a succession of ridges. The town was laid out in 
1802, and is now a place of considerable importance. 
The present population is about 10,000. 



84 

After leaving the wharf, the boat passes the most 
beautif al cliff on the river, the Palisades of the St. 
Lawrence, on which are erected magnificent mansions 
and suburban residences and villas of Canada's 
<iistinguished sons. The most prominent of these is 
the son of Sir Hugh Allen, whose residence is really- 
superb. The sightseer can observe the winds ng stairs, 
boat and bath houses and other appointments for 
recreation. 

Having left Brockville, a magnificent view greets 
the eye ; islands are not now in view ; the river is a 
most beautiful sheet of water, running perfectly- 
straight for about sixteen miles with the land on 
either side in good view, for the river is a little over 
two miles wide. Three miles from Morristown, on 
the right, is a camp ground of the Baptist persuasion, 
mostly from St. Lawrence County. Five miles on 
the left from Brockville is Maitland. At this point 
is a prominent object known as the old distillery, 
whose proprietor is said to have been worth, at one 
time, a million dollars, but whose cupidity during 
*' America's unpleasantness" led him into selling 
"crooked whiskey," or rather disposing of his dis- 
tillery products in a very "crooked" way. Without 
going into the details, the facts in brief are : He 
antagonized the Canadian government in the matter 
of paying revenue, and in his fight for stupid 
supremacy, he not only lost his distillery, but his 
fortune too, and he and his family became reduced to 
poverty, and none of them remain around their 
former home. It is said he first induced his niece to 
marry the revenue collector of the district, that he 
might carry on the nefarious business in collusion 
and without detection, but, you see. 



85 

" The deep laid plans of mice and men gang aft aglee," 

About four miles below, on the left, is the old blue 
stone church, in the graveyard of which rests the 
remains of the founder of Methodism on this conti- 
nent, Barbara Heck. One mile farther, on the left, is 
McCarthy's new brick brewery. Half a mile beyond 
is the celebrated Rysdick stock farm, owned by J. P. 
Wiser, M. P. Here is owned the celebrated stallion 
Rysdick, which cost Mr. Wiser $25,000. It is a farm 
of about six hundred acres, and is unquestionably 
the finest stock farm in the Dominion of Canada. 
The thrift, energy and ability of this gentleman will 
not be wondered at when it is learned that he is of 
American birth. Next, on the left, is the celebrated 
Labatt's brewery and 

PRESCOTT, 

with its 3,000 inhabitants, who seem to have lost their 
grip on the trade of the river, judging from the 
dilapidated condition of the stores, warehouses, etc., 
on the wharves. The town, however, is handsomely 
laid out, has a fine city hall and market, and there are 
many fine private residences. It is connected with 
Ottawa, capital of the Dominion, by the Canada 
Pacific Railroad, St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad 
Branch, distance 54 miles. Here many tourists who 
desire to visit the capital disembark for that purpose. 
We refer the tourist to Daniels' hotel as a good stop- 
ping place. L. H. Daniels has taken the hotel and 
spent $8,000 in improvements; he is too well known 
to the traveling public to need any praise from me. 
Opposite is 



86 



OGDENSBURG, 

founded by Francis Picquit in May, 1749. It. now 
contains about 15,000 people, and of course ranks as 
a city. It is the terminus of the Rome and Water- 
town, Utica and Black River, and the Ogdensburg 
and Lake Champlain railroads. It is beautifully laid 
out, well planted with maple trees, and is called the 
^' Maple City." It has a United States Custom House, 
post-office, and a new opera house, costing $15,000, 
six fine church edifices, water works, gas works, a 
fire alarm telegraph and two daily newspapers, and 
possibly other modern improvements. At the lower 
end of the town are the big elevators of the Ggdens- 
burg and Lake Champlain Railroad, now owned by 
the Central Vermont Railroad. Many tourists start 
from here in the morning, reaching every point in 
the White Mountains before tea time. 

One mile and a half below Prescott on the left, is 
Windmill Point; the old windmJl has been turned 
into a lighthouse. Here, in 1837, the " Patriots," 
under Von Shultz, a Polish exile, established them- 
selves, but from which they were driven with severe 
loss. We believe this Von Schultz was subsequently 
hung by the Canadian authorities, and his followers 
banished, probably to New Jersey. On the left, a 
little below the lighthouse, is the residence and farm 
of W. H. McGannon, the oldest pilot on the St. Law- 
rence river, the man who first took the Passport, of 
the Richelieu line, down the Long Sault Rapids, in 
July, 1847. I 3.m also indebted to him for the correct- 
ness of my New Map of the St. Lawrence and other 
information of benefit to me and the public. 



87 

Three miles below, on the left, is Johnstown Bay, 
with Johnstown — not a very important trading post — 
overlooking. This place has a custom house officer, 
commissioner of fisheries, mayor and marshal of the 
district ; but these important officials are concentrated 
in one man. 

We turn here to the right, leaving the far-famed 
Chimney Island on the left, on which are said to be 
the ruins of old French forts, battlements, etc. The 
only remains we have discovered of these supposed 
formidable defences is an extensive moat around the 
island, twelve feet deep, filled with water. The 
chimney, from which it derives it-s name, is supposed 
to be on the island, but we have looked in vain to 
discover it. It may be, however, that it has floated 
down the river ; we will speak of it further on. 

In the distance, on the left, are Tick or Pier 
Islands. Some of the finest bass fishing in the river 
is off this old pier. Dr. Melville, of Prescott, the 
inventor of rheumatic victor, and an enthusiastic 
fisherman of this section, last summer caught a black 
bass weighing seven and one half pounds while 
enjoying the sport around the pier. 

Three miles from Chimney Island, in the distance, 
is what is termed "the cut," forming the channel 
between Galop and Moore's islands. It was the 
former channel of this line of boats, but the Dominion 
government is expending six million of dollars for 
the enlargment of the canals of this route, and the 
survey party at present are blasting a channel through 
the 

GALOP RAPID, 

which may be seen in the distance. The reason of 
the change of channel is formed with an edict of the 



88 

pilots not to interfere with the work of the engineer 
corps engaged on this necessary improvement of 
excavating a fifteen foot channel, to allow larger 
boats to pass, and dispense with the use of the 
Edwardsburg canal. This is the first and smallest 
rapid on the St. Lawrence River, and as the Phat Boy- 
has termed it, "a little one for a cent." I will, how- 
ever, give you an idea of what the rapids are. All 
the rapids on this river are caused by numerous rocks, 
large and small, in the bed of the river, and the swift 
current of water passing over these rocks, causes the 
fearful commotion that you observe. Now, to carry 
our philosophy a little farther, we say the larger the 
rock and the stronger the current the better the 
rapids. No rocks, no water, no current, no rapids ! 
This commotion which you see here is caused by a 
ledge of rocks five and one-half feet in height under 
nine feet of water. You can see the swell and white 
cap which this rock occasions, and then use your best 
judgment to determine the height of the rocks in 
Long Sault, where we hope to arrive at one o'clock. 
(There are, let me state here, eight rapids on our trip 
to-day, which may be divided into two classes, first 
and second. The first class are Long Sault, meaning 
a long leap or jump ; Cedar, deriving its name from 
the trees in the vicinity, and Lachine. The second 
class is Galop, meaning a hopping, jumping rapid ; 
Rapid Piatt, meaning in French, flat ; Chateau du 
Lac, meaning foot of the Lake ; Split Rock, derived 
from a fissure which makes the channel, and the 
Cascade, from its resemblance to a cascade.) 

On the left, before arriving at the Galop rapids, is 
the entrance to the Edwardsburg canal. This canal 
is seven and one-half miles in length, and is the first 



89 

canal we arrive at ; its terminus is at Iroquois. It 
would be well here to say that we only have canals 
around the rapids, or where the curreqt is too strong 
for a steamer to ascend. We here append a tabular 
statement of the 

ST. LAWRENCE CANALS. 

Edwardsburg canal, 7j^ miles long, three locks, 14 
feet fall in the river; Morrisburg canal, 4 miles long, 
2 locks, iij^ feet fall ; Farron's Point canal, ^ mile 
long, I lock, 4 feet fall ; Cornwall Canal, 12 miles 
long, 7 locks, 48 feet fall ; Beauharnois canal, 11% 
miles long, 9 locks, 84 feet fall; Lachine canal, 9 
miles long, 5 locks, 45 feet fall . 

In the distance, on the left, is the village of Edwards- 
burg, now called Cardinal. Here is located the 
Edwardsburg starch factory, the largest in the 
Dominion of Canada. The president of the company 
is the Hon. Walter Shanley, of Hoosac Tunnel fame. 
He was the great contractor who completed that 
wonderful piece of work, and is now manager of the 
St. Lawrence and Ottawa Railroad. 

Twenty minutes from Edwardsburg to the next 
point -of interest. 

Distinguished among Indian names is that of 
Iroquois. Here it names a village, formerly known 
as Matilda; but, like all other good Matildas do, she 
changed her name to Iroquois, in order to preserve 
the name. The Iroquis Indians formerly owned this 
section of country. One and a half miles below this 
village, is the narrowest point in the St. Lawrence 
River, from Kingston to the gulf. This broad expanse 
of water we are just passing, and the one we arrive at 



90 

immediately after leaving the point, are very shallow, 
consequently holds the water in check at the point — 
the depth of water in the shallow places being about 
22 feet, while at the point it is 84 feet. Width of the 
river 1,140 feet — 180 feet less than a quarter of a 
mile. 

On the right in the narrowest portion of the river is 
Cedar Point. On the left is a small bluff, formerly 
called Hemlock Point, on account of a fine hemlock 
standing there; but on one fine morning the hemlock, 
the tree and the point all slid into the river, and have 
not yet returned. About fifteen feet back from the 
point is a rail fence, which is outside of the earth- 
works that were thrown up in 1812-13, and batteries 
were erected on Cedar Point. 

On the left is the main shore of the Dominion of 
Canada, with a population of over six millions. On 
the right is the main shore of the United States of 
America, with a population of over sixty millions. 
When the six millions want the sixty millions all 
they will be obliged to do is to walk over and take 
them. Then will iTe verified that beautiful passage in 
Holy Writ which says, "One shall chase a thousand 
and two put ten thousand to flight." Sing ! 

This was really a strong point, and v;as fortified on 
both sides of the river by the opposing parties. From 
the fact of the successful fortification by the Ameri- 
cans the Rideau Canal owes its origin. Guns and 
stores or merchandise could not be taken up the river. 
It was conceived by Colonel By, of the engineer corps, 
that a new canal would obviate the difficulty, and all 
his resources were immediately put into requisition, 



91 

and the canal was completed at a cost of $5,000,000. 
It extends from Ottawa, formerly By-town, to Kings- 
ton, and is still in use. 

Ten minutes from here to the next point of interest. 
On the left is the entrance to the Morrisburg Canal, 
the second canal in the chain, but it is not used by 
this line of boats. All tows and sailing vessels have 
to use the canals. In the distant front is Rapid Piatt; 
on the right is Ogden's Island, the finest wooded 
island in the St. Lawrence River. Beyond is Wad- 
dington, St. Lawrence county, N. Y. In front is this 
rapid we have just named ; it is the second one, and 
is "a little one for two cents." It has, however, eight 
feet more descent than the first, but is only a one cent 
descenter rapid. 

MORRISBURG. 

After passing the point, Morrisburg comes into view 
on the left — the prettiest village in the Dominion of 
Canada. Look at its churches, public buildings, 
private residences, and hotels (the St. Lawrence Hall 
is kept by W. H. McCannon & Brothers, and I can 
say cheerfully no better hotel in town), that greet the 
eye, for we are still in the Province of Ontario. At 
half past three o'clock we enter the Province of 
Quebec. You will have a good chance then to com- 
pare the difference between the two Provinces. Your 
especial attention is called to this now, that you may 
be prepared to scan the change you will not fail to 
observe. Before reaching Morrisburg is Doran's 
Island, which was rented by Mr. Oz Doran of the St. 
Regis Indians for one dollar per year, and they come 
every year 60 miles to collect one dollar. A railroad 



92 

bridge was to have been completed at this point 
during the present year. Opposite Morrisburg is 
Dry Island, used for picnics, etc. 

One hour from this point to the Long Sault Rapids. 
We speak of this here, for it is about dinner time, 
and if you are lucky enough to secure a seat at the 
first table you will lose no point of interest, for it is 
presumable you will finish within the hour. 

THE CUISINE ON THE BOAT. 

It will not be amiss here to state that the meals 
were formerly served on the American plan, in the 
upper saloon, and to give you but a faint idea of the 
commotion created by the passengers when there was 
one more person on board than seats at the table, 
would require a volume ten times this size to describe. 
Therefore, please excuse me if I relate by way of 
illustration what an eminent writer said on the sub- 
ject : " The waiters, like little puppets, would bob up 
serenely at any time and place, drop a dish or what- 
ever the hand contained, and were as soon out of 
sight. This continued for about one hour, while we 
were seated back against the cabin wall, with just 
space enough for the waiter to pass between us and 
the table. When the sfgnal was given everybody 
made a rush for the table, and if the scene depicted 
could only be described humorously or otherwise, 
I would like to read it." But the writer said it 
reminded him of the famous picture in her Majesty's 
gallery, " The rape of the Sabines." (I have never 
seen the picture, but presume it is that of a beautiful 
female poised as a central figure, and about ten soldiers 
ready to embrace her on a given signal.) Things 



93 

have changed, however, and this season the meals 
will be served on the American plan, run by the com- 
pany, who have secured the best stewards, etc., to 
superintend the service, to the end that everyone may 
be pleased. The upper saloon will not be used, but 
what was formerly known as the ladies' cabin, and 
the cabin below, has been refitted, containing ample 
table room for everybody, and will be the dining 
rooms ; there have also been added a new kitchen, 
steam tables, etc., which gives the whole saloon as a 
promenade and place of repose and rest for the pas- 
sengers. I am positive the change will be acceptable. 
About a mile below Morrisburg, on the right, is 
Gooseneck Island, so called from its resemblance 
to the neck of a goose ; the upper end is the neck ; 
the narrative is about nine miles long. Five miles 
from Morrisburg to 

CHRYSLER'S FARM, 

memorable for the battle fought on this ground in the 
year 1813. The Americans were the attacking party 
on this occasion, having arisen early in the morning, 
crossed the river into the little bay, landed, and imme- 
diately gone into the contest by attacking the little 
house. The fight was desperate, lasting until eleven 
o'clock, when the Americans, under General Williams, 
were repulsed with great slaughter. The house was 
completely riddled with bullets. It has since been 
torn down and the chimney left as a monument to the 
battle. They retreated in good order, re-crossed the 
river and remained, having abandoned the trip to 
Montreal, which they intended. I draw this mild 
because 1 am one of ''God's people" myself. 



94 

Next in interst is Farron's Point, opposite which 
is Croyl's Island. Six minutes from here to Long 
Sault Rapids ; we pass on the left Harrison's Landing. 

LONG SAULT ISLAND. 

At this point there are really two channels, the 
American channel being on the right of Long Sault 
Island, the rapids forming the Canadian channel, and 
are on the left of the Island. The distinguishing 
feature about the American channel is, while it is 
swift in current, it has no rapids worthy of note, and 
the channel is used for tows, etc., and all the rafts 
naturally prefer this way, because it would be impos- 
sible for them to go down the Long Sault. 

In the distant front observe a light-house at the head 
of the Cornwall canal. This canal is twelve miles in 
length, and passes around the Long Sault Rapids. 

The boats are steered from landmarks on shore, by 
that small ball you see on the end of the pole, which 
is the bow-sprit. The target that you see in the dis- 
tance is used by the pilot to .2:et his position in Long 
Sault Rapids. These targets will be seen frequently 
as you progress, and as they all answer the same pur- 
pose, this reference to them will suffice. 

LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 

Dickinson's Landing, on the left, was formerly a 
very important point on this line, as it was the foot 
of navigation before the canal was completed, some 
forty years ago. Few changes have taken place since, 
that are apparent to the eye. The Long Sault is the 
first one of the first-class rapids, and the third one in 
line proceeding down the river, and as we set a price 



95 

on the other two you can set your own price on this 
one. A description of these rapids has been given 
from time immemorial ; it does not behoove us to 
give any graphic or colored description of this scene, 
although we might do so satisfactorily, having seen 
depicted on the countenances of thousands of passen- 
gers who have passed this way everything in nature, 
from the sublime to the ridiculous, as well as between 
the two, and as each individual's feelings differ, no 
one description would do the subject justice. One 
writer said : " It w^as sliding down hill on a steam- 
boat." Another said he felt as if he was being ungliied! 
A third said he felt as if he had taken a large dose of 
ipecac. Still another, as if he was on a ship at sea in 
a storm. And yet one more was so exhilarated that 
he imagined he owned Maud S. and would like to 
spend his days on the rapids. Another party who had 
ridiculed the trip a good deal, until the spray began 
to cover the deck, wetting them to the skin, drench- 
ing their store clothes, which, when dried, revealed 
awkward misfits, exclaimed that "it was the grandest 
sight they ever witnessed." 

I could enlarge upon other descriptions, but prefer 
to give the Phat Boy a privilege to relate a few facts 
— no "taffy." All the boats of this line are built of 
Bessemer steel or iron, with three and one-half inches 
of elm riveted close to the iron on the bottom outside 
to prevent accidents if we should strike against a rock. 
This precaution was found necessary, because the 
first iron boat that struck a rock became a total 
wreck. With the protection of elm no injury has 
resulted from the occasional striking of the boats 
against the rocks. There is no danger, however, in 
this rapid, for the water in the shallowest place is 



96 

thirteen and one-half feet, and we are drawing about 
seven feet. During our passage through all the rapids, 
we have four men at the wheel and four naen at the 
tiller aft, who assist the men at the wheel. Any acci- 
dent that should happen to the chain or the wheel, 
the pilot immediately goes to the right hand of the 
tiller. 

The Long Sault Rapid is nine miles long ; three 
miles of boisterous commotion; six miles of current 
and sudden sharp turns. When we first enter the 
rapid the steam on board of the boat is slowed down 
until she gets her position in the rapids, as she draws 
less water than when under full head of steam. We 
are then compelled to put on full steam, as the boat 
must go faster than the current in order to obtain 
steerage way. Many suppose that no steam is used 
through the rapids, which is an error. If we were to 
attempt to go down without any propelling power, 
we would be at the mercy of the current of this stu- 
pendous agitation called rapids. One couldn't tell 
which end of the boat would be first, and it is pre- 
sumable that this would be anything but pleasant to 
the passenger, for she would go down the same as a 
log ; no one could tell which end of the boat would 
be first — anything but pleasure to the passengers. 

When we first enter this rapid, the finest view is 
obtained on the right side of the boat. It is expected, 
however, that the passengers will distribute them- 
selves equally on either side to keep the boat in good 
trim — the captain generally uses the *'Phat Boy" for 
this purpose ; when he is not on board the passengers 
are expected to distribute themselves. The view, 
however, soon changes to the left, and when nearing 



97 

the point the swell and white caps run from seven to 
eleven feet in height. 

We have already explained the cause of the rapids. 
Now, will any one please explain to me what is the 
height of the rocks which create this commotion, and 
at the same time set their price on this rapid. After 
passing this point and the swell and white caps that 
we have been describing, on the left is the passage to 
the Canadian channel of this river, which forms 
Earnhardt's Island. On the right is the American 
channel. This was formerly used by boats before 
they came down the Long Sault, which for a long 
time was known as the lost channel. This channel 
having been lost for some years, it was discovered by 
Captain Rankin, who received for that service a 
magnificent silver watch, the value of which at the 
present day would be about $6.50. The first steam- 
boat of this line that passed through the Long Sault, 
was the Passport (this year the New Passport takes 
her place in the line), in 1847, and the pilot was W. 
H. McGanon, who is still in the employ of the com- 
pany. The soundings were made by scows and rafts, 
with poles attached to the sides, of 8 to 15 feet in 
length, and as either of these met an obstruction and 
became dislodged or broken off, the depth of the 
water was ascertained and a record made. The pro- 
pelling power of these scows or rafts was oars or 
large paddles, worked by from 10 to 40 men as the 
necessities of each required. 

The steamer Gill was the first boat through the 
rapids, and went down more by accident than other- 
wise, but it demonstrated the certainty of a channel. 

Earnhardt's Island, on the left, 7^ miles in length 
by 4% miles in width, belongs to the United States 



98 

On the right is the main land, St. Lawrence County, 
N. Y. Both sides of the river for the next seven 
miles belong to the United States. The King of 
Holland, who was the arbitrator of the treaty of i8[2, 
from charts, maps, etc., furnished him, supposed that 
the main channel of the river passed around that 
island on the left. He was mistaken, however; this 
is the main channel of the river, and the only navi- 
gable one ; the Canadian channel containing only 
about 3^ or 4 feet of water. 

During the next eight minutes we pass three very 
sudden turns in the river ; the first turn is to the 
right then to the left; next to the right again; the 
second turn being the sharpest on the St. Lawrence 
River; at direct angles turning to the left. Passen- 
gers on the left side of the boat, by looking backward, 
have a fine view of that portion of the river we have 
just passed, and looking forward see where we are 
compelled to go, and more easily note the sharpness 
of the turn. Rafts entering the American channel 
at the foot of the Long Sault rapids will drift 
nine miles in forty minutes, and are often thrown 
on shore on either side in making this sudden 
turn. After making our next turn to the right, by 
looking in the distance, front, between the narrow 
point, we discover what is known as " The Crab. " 
The current crosses here from right to left, then left 
to right, and from right to left, forming the letter Z. 
Rafts get entangled in this portion of the river, and 
are easily torn to pieces. 

There is a ferry boat plying between this point, on 
the right, Macenia point and Cornwall point on the 
left, touching at two places on Earnhardt's Island, to 
convey passengers who are desirous of visiting 



99 

Macenia Springs, six miles distant. The steamboat is^ 
a side-wheeler, two horses tread the power that 
revolves the wheels; it is therefore a two-horse 
boat ; they convey the steam on board in a bag- well 
filled with oats. The deck hand is the cook ; the cook 
is the engineer, the engineer is the mate, and the 
mate is the captain ; one man supreme commands ; no 
mutiny ever occurs, unless the mule should kick the 
deck hand overboard — that would be a " rtiulity^' would 
it not ? 

On the left is the entrance to the Canadian channel 
at the end of Earnhardt's Island. Two miles below 
on the right is the last of the American shore on the 
St. Lawrence, lat. 45° N, Some few years ago I 
was presented by one of the firms in the city, with an 
American flag, fifteen feet in length, to designate the 
last of the United States shore on this river. Through 
the assistance of a friend at Cornwall, and thirteen 
dollars in cash, I succeeded in getting the flag in 
position. It remained there for about ten days, when 
a party of St. Regis Indians, who occupy a reserva- 
tion six miles distant, the other side of the island — 
four of them, came over to the point, filled them- 
selves full of " ice water," climbed up the flag-staff, 
and took down the flag. They cut it up into three or 
four suits of clothes, and went around this vicinity 
for about a week as full as a boiled oyster, singing 
" Hail Columbia, right side up," rolled up in the 
Stars and Stripes, full of fire water ; it was said to be 
the happiest moment of their lives, and I have no 
reason to doubt it. On June 7th, 1887, I was pre- 
sented by Mr. S. Carsley, the leading dry goods mer- 
chant of Montreal, with another splendid American 
flag, and I hope when placed in position it may wave 



lOO 



until I cease issuing this little volume, and on white 
wings, etc., etc. 

That portion of the river on the right is the divid- 
ing line for five miles ; afterwards an iron fence or 
posts, set at equal distance apart, mark the boundary- 
line. The river passing around the way forms Corn- 
wall Island, about six miles wide. Rafts enter this 
portion of the river where the Racket river empties 
in, and are here refitted preparatory to being towed 
through the lake. Both sides of the river from this 
point downward belong to the Dominion of Canada. 

In the distance, on the left is Cornwall, a village of 
8,000 people, with the largest cotton and woolen mills 
in the Dominion. Since the protective tariff was 
inaugurated by the Dominion Parliament, these 
industries have thrived wonderfully, and the town is 
correspondingly prosperous. The large round tower 
is the water works reservoir. Just before landing, a 
fine view is obtained of both the old and new Corn- 
wall canals. Looking at the old canal lock, and 
learning its dimensions, it is obvious why the steam- 
ers are the limit which the locks will admit, hence if 
they were five feet longer or a trifle wider, they 
would be compelled to remain at Montreal, not being 
able to work through the locks. The new canal 
which is alongside of the old one, will have locks 100 
feet longer than the present ones in use, consequently 
much larger boats will be able to ply the river. The 
old canal was considered amply large when built ; it 
was not supposed that the travel on the St. Lawrence 
would ever reach its present and constantly increasing 
numbers. 

After leaving Cornwall, on the right is Cornwall 
Island, 6 miles wide. Just beyond the Island, on the 



lOI 



right bank of the river, is St. Regis, an old Indian 
village, which cannot be seen from the deck of the 
steamer. But there is just one point where the 
church roof can be observed for a moment or so. 
There is, however, a tradition worth relating here : 
The bell hanging in this church is associated with a 
deed of genuine Indian revenge. On its way from 
France it was captured by an English cruiser and 
taken to Salem, Massachusetts, where it was sold to 
the church at Deerfield, in the same state. The 
Indians, hearing of the destination of their bell, set 
out for Deerfield, attacked the town, killing forty- 
seven of the inhabitants, and took 1 12 captives, among 
whom was the pastor and his family. The bell was 
then taken down and conveyed to St. Regis, where it 
now hangs. 

During the next ten miles of our trip, the river is 
beautifully studded with islands, and resembles the 
Thousand Islands scenery very much. Many of these 
islands are inhabited ; some of them elegantly laid out 
with drives, etc. Rev. Mr. Dickinson's, called after 
himself, has a dock, at which steamers of this size can 
land ; it has a hotel, number of cottages, and is quite 
a gay place in summer. On the left side is Summers 
Town, beyond which is Hamilton's Island. Just 
before reaching Summers Town is the residence of 
Captain Cameron, of this line; beyond is the magnifi- 
cent villa of Hon. Caribou Cameron, the finest on the 
St. Lawrence. It is built of Ohio freestone and cost 
<^8o,ooo. Hamilton Island, on the left, is occupied 
every summer by camping parties, who come from 
great distances, even from Virginia and Ohio, and 
remain two, three and even four months. Day after 
day, one of their principal amusements is rowing out 



102 

in their small boats, awaiting the arrival of the 
steamers, and then swiftly riding on top of the swell 
that is occasioned by the wheels of the steamer. The 
scene is exciting and picturesque. On the right we 
now have a fine view of the Adirondack Mountains 
of Northern New York, and beyond the Green 
Mountains of Vermont, except it be a smoky or misty 
day, when the view is slightly obscured. It is 56 
miles from the river to the mountains, and intervening 
is the wilderness of the State of New York, known as 
the John Brown tract, more famous as the hunting 
ground of adventurous hunting and fishing parties. 

Continuing our course, we pass three small islands 
and enter Lake St. Francis, 28 miles in length — a very 
picturesque sheet of water indeed ; but the trip 
through the lake is quite monotonous, therefore, for 
the next two hours, the guide, as well as the passen- 
gers, can ''take a rest." This being a favorite route 
for honeymoon parties, there is now two full hours 
for these couples to enjoy the "honey" or the "moon," 
as seemeth to them best. After making this announce- 
ment one day, 53 left the deck ; one, however, was an 
old bachelor, who went to curl his hair. 

In the centre of the lake, on the left, is the village 
of Lancaster, an old Scotch settlement. Just before 
reaching the village, is what appears to be a stack of 
hay, commonly known throughout Scotland as a 
Cairn. It is no more or less than a heap of stones in 
a rounded or conical form, placed in that way to com- 
memorate some especial historic event. This one was 
built by the Glengarry Highlanders in 1847, to per- 
petuate the memory of Sir John Colburn, who was Com- 
mander-in-Chief of the Army and Governor-General 
of the province. It was built by putting cobble-stones 



I03 

one on top of the other — each individual inhabitant or 
stranger passing that way adding a stone. See Queen 
Victoria's Book, where she describes helping to build 
a Scotch Cairn with the assistance of John Brown, 
and one will get a better idea of how to build a Cairn. 
The county in which this place is located is named 
Glengarry, and is mainly or almost wholly inhabited 
by the sturdy Scotch Highlanders, whose farms are of 
the finest in the Dominion. This is the last English 
speaking village on the route. 

Passing three lighthouses, showing that the channel 
across the lake is quite intricate, we leave St. Anisette 
on the right, a small French town. We are now 
approaching the boundary line between the Provinces 
of Ontario and Quebec. The lighthouses on either 
side show the geographical divisions. From the 
lighthouse on the left the line runs straight to the 
Ottawa River ; then the Ottawa becomes the dividing 
line. Just before arriving at the foot of the lake, 
where the river re-forms, we pass San Zotique ; next 
Coteau Landing, where we call for the purpose of 
taking on a pilot, 

EDWARD WILLETT, 

whose duty it is to pilot this line of boats through the 
next series of rapids, and the Lachine, also through 
to Montreal ; we are now coming to four rapids : 
first, the Coteau; second Cedar; third, Split Rock, 
and fourth, the Cascades. The Canada Atlantic 
Railroad, running from Ottawa, the capital of the 
Dominion, to Coteau Landing, the railroad ferry at 
this point conveys whole trains to Valley Field, 
where connections are made for Boston and New 



I04 

York. A bridge was to be completed this year and 
the Ferry discontinued. The shortest route from the 
capital to those points. On the extreme right, at the 
foot of the lake, is the village of Valley Field. It is 
at the head of Beauharnois Canal, ii^ miles in 
length, which passes around this series of rapids. 
The river, in ii)^ miles, has a fall of 84 feet. The 
finest water power privilege on the continent of 
America, except Niagara, is at this point. The 
largest cotton mill in the Dominion, the Canada 
Paper Co.'s mill, and several other manufacturing 
establishments are located at Valley Field. After 
leaving St. Francis Lake, we re-enter the river. 
With our pilot we go down the small rapid known as 
the Coteau, passing Prisoner's Island on the left, and 
on the left bank is the old French village of Coteau 
du Lac. On the extreme left, at the point, is an old 
French fort, where battles were fought in 181 2 and 
1813; the earthworks are still in a good state of 
preservation, behind which is the old saw-mill. 
Twenty minutes (or five miles) from this point to the 
Cedar Rapids, then you will "see der Rapid" that is 
a Rapid — the most Rapid Rapid of all the Rapids. 
Opposite the rapid is the village of Cedar on the left 
and St. Timothy on the right, the Cedar Rapid the 
finest upon the St. Lawrence River. Look at St. 
Timothy, bear in mind the view you had of Morris- 
burg, the impression of its beauty and thrift, and 
now you have the comparison. How does the former 
strike you as against the latter ? It is a historic fact, 
and worthy of note, that no matter what town you 
arrive at in the Province of Quebec, this will be 
apparent to the eye: the finest buildings in the place 
will be the church, nunnery, school, hospital and 



I05 

priest's residence. Aside from these, the rest are all 
about alike. You cannot tell the palace residence 
from the blacksmith's shop, or the grocery store from 
the hotel. The church at St. Timothy has a seating 
capacity of 1,500 ; the population of the village is 
600; the church is always full on Sundays, and as 
Mark Twain exclaimed, " What large domes these 
worshippers must have to their pantaloons for 600 to 
fill a place capable of seating 1,500." But they come 
from all the country around, being all of one per- 
suasion. An opposition church is so far unknown in 
these rural parts, hence it may be inferred what the 
extraordinary power of this old church must be in 
the lower province. 

Speaking to one of the priests one day regarding 
the amount of money collected by them from the 
poor to build and maintain their institutions, I asked 
him how it was, and he remarked that the millions 
have more money than the millionaires, and by get- 
ting the dollar from the poorer classes they had the 
million, which the millionaires never give up. 

Just before arriving at St. Timothy, we enter the 
Cedar Rapid and pass a distance of three and one- 
half miles in the extraordinary short time of seven 
minutes. By casting your eye shoreward, while 
passing an island on the left, and just before we 
enter the heaviest part of the rapid, you will discover 
how fast the boat is going. Looking to the right, 
you will see Hell's Hole and the greatest commotion 
in the river from Kingston to the Gulf. 

Leaving Cedar Rapid, which is the most picturesque 
and beautiful (in our estimation) of all, two and one- 
half miles farther along, and passing Bockey Hayes' 
shoal, which is a peculiar formation in the bed of the 



io6 

river, making navigation somewhat dangerous. In 
illustration : one day the steamer Corsican suddenly- 
lurched to the left, and evidently struck a rock ; 
whereupon the captain said to the pilot, "Edward, 
you are a little too far over to the left." Before he 
could complete the sentence the boat lurched to the 
right and struck another rock ; then the pilot replied, 
" Yes; and a little too far over to the right side." It 
is plain that the channel about here is at least pre- 
carious. The government engineers, however, are 
now at work removing these dangerous obstructions. 
The Napoleon hats you see in the distance, on poles 
about ten feet high, are the marks which enable the 
pilot to obtain his true bearings through the shoal. 
Turning to the right, we come in sight of the Split 
Rock Rapid, the most dangerous rapid of all. When 
we speak of danger, we don't mean to life or limb, as 
no person was ever injured on this rapid ; it is danger 
to property that we refer to, as this is the only one of 
the series that has cost the company one dollar. 
They lost one steamboat here, and have bad others 
upon the rocks. On the 8th of July, 1874, the steamer 
Corinthian, of the R. O. N. Co., when passing the 
Split Rock Rapid, was almost instantly enveloped by 
a terrific thunder shower, accompanied by a hurricane. 
The wind was so powerful that the boat refused to 
answer the helm, and instead of turning to the right, 
as she should, the wind caused her to go straight 
ahead, and we struck a rock forward about five feet 
high and passed fifteen feet aft of the wheel over the 
same, and then stopped. I was upon the right hand 
side of the boat explaining to the passengers and 
showing or pointing out to them the ledge of rock 
when she struck. Immediately four ladies caught 



loy 

hold of me (whom they thought was the boss life 
preserver). What a position for a nice young man. 
I was about to exclaim as my friend A. Ward did 
when he was surrounded by 20 of Brigham Young's 
wives, " I hope your intentions are honorable." 
However, through the assistance of some friends, I 
procured life preservers for them and was released 
from my somewhat precarious position. In a space 
of an hour most of the passengers were landed by 
the aid of the ship's boats and bateaux from the shore, 
and proceeded by rail to Montreal, where they arrived 
the same evening. I remained on board all night 
until a derrick was erected and two of the boats 
lashed together, and a platform built upon them, 
when I was let down by the aid of the derrick upon 
the same, and without further trouble taken to shore 
in safety. The second line of white-caps which you 
see in the distance in front, is the Split Rock, a ledge 
of rock running from shore to shore, with the 
exception of a break of about sixty feet, which is a 
natural split in the rock. Formerly there was only 
a depth of nine feet of water ; it was blasted out and 
now gives a navigable channel of thirteen and one- 
half feet. Passengers, by looking into the water on 
the right side of the boat, can see the ledge we have 
been talking about. 

One and a half miles from here to the Cascade, the 
last of this series of four, and the last but one on the 
river — the Lachine being the last. The Cascade 
differs from all the rest, being a cutting chopping sea, 
in which the boats are wrenched more than in any 
other rapid. On the right is the village of Meloche- 
ville, at the foot of the Beauharnois Canal, eleven 
and one-half miles in length, that passes around this 



io8 

line of rapids. The boats of this and all other lines 
are compelled to pass through this canal, as none of 
them could ascend this line of rapids. 

We are now thirty miles by water and twenty-four 
miles by land from Montreal. I n the distance in front, 
is Mount Royal, or Montreal mountain. The park 
mountain drive, the most famous drive in the world, 
is up the brow of the mountain through a park. On 
the left is II Perot Island, formed by the two channels 
of the Ottawa. The one we now see comes by St. 
Anne's, where Moore wrote his famous Canadian boat 
song. A resident of St. Anne's, Lieutenant-Colonel 
Dowker, says that every spring the freshets of the 
Ottawa cause the water to come down into the 
St. Lawrence with such force as to cause an 
eddy to pass up the point of the island and pass 
down the navigable channel of the Ottawa, and he 
can take a pail from his house, Chateau Blanc 
(where the famous poet Moore resided while at St. 
Anne's and wrote his Canadian poems), proceed down 
to the river and dip up a pail of pure clear St. Law- 
rence water. Meeting Col. Dowker last spring, he 
told me that the freshets of the Ottawa in March and 
April, 1885, were the most alarming and disastrous 
ever known. The sudden breaking up of the ice 
caused a jam. Houses were moved from their 
foundations, cattle and sheep crushed to jelly by the 
ice and many drowned ; the ice piled mountains high. 
The government had an agent in the vicinity 
relieving the distressed inhabitants. The heavy flow 
of ice by the freshets in the Ottawa caused a jam a 
little below Montreal in the year 1887, consequently 
flooding the city, causing much damage to life and 
property. The oldest church in the upper Province 
and old forts are to be seen here. 



I09 

On the left a portion of the Ottawa empties into 
the St. Lawrence. This is not, however, the main 
channel ; the navigable portion of the river is just the 
other side of II Perot. Note the difference between 
the color of the two waters ; they are as wide apart 
as green is from purple. The water of the Ottawa is 
of a dark brown color, caused by passing over low 
marshy, peat bed soils, and the huge forests through 
which this river passes, the leaves falling and rot- 
ting, and swept along by the freshets, doubtless dye 
the water to the peculiar color observable The 
waters of the two rivers do not readily mix, and each 
are distinct for many miles. 

In the distance is Lake St. Louis, or Lachine 
Lake, 15 miles from the rapids to the foot of the 
lake, where we arrive at Lachine, on the left, and 
Caughnawaga on the right. The latter is the resi- 
dence of the Indian pilot, St. Jean Baptiste, who dis- 
covered the channel and took this line of boats down 
the Lachine Rapids for over forty years. 

About half way through the lake on the right we 
<;ome to Nun's Island. That mound or elevation of 
ground which you see was a fort in 18 12, and English 
and American warlike parties met in sanguinary 
contest around here. It commands the entrance to 
the Chateaugay River. The village of Chateaugay is 
about six miles back. The Nun's Island belongs to 
the Gray Nuns, of Montreal, who have a hospital for 
their own sick, and the spot is marked by a large 
cross, emblematic of their order. 

Fifteen minutes from here we are in sight of 
Caughnawaga, where we take on board the Indian 
pilot, who has become of historical interest to tour- 
ists, as it was he who discovered the channel and 



TIO 



took the first of this line down, August 19, 1840, and 
has been in the employ of the company ever since. 
He is 75 years old, weighs 240 pounds, and stands 6 
feet high. I am sorry to say that on account of 
age, the company were forced to retire him, and his 
brother-in-law will take the boats through the Lachine 
Rapids this year. Many of the passengers imagine 
he is the only pilot who can take a boat through 
Lachine Rapids. This is not correct, for we have 
other pilots who can; but as he is paid for this 
especial service, they resign most cheerfully in his 
favor. He has never had an accident, and the com- 
pany believe in holding to that which is good, and 
therefore " stick to the old man:" He will emerge 
from shore in a small boat, accompanied by his 
two sons. They row him to the steamers ; he comes 
on board and the boys row him home again. 
He remains on board till the next morning, takes 
the first train for Lachine, where he is met by the 
boys, who take him home in a row boat. The Indian 
pilot's name it St. Jean Baptiste de Lisle ; his Indiaa 
name, Ta ya ka, meaning in the U. S. language that 
"he will cross the river," but he does not; he goes 
down the rapids. He has a family of six children, 
three boys and three girls. The girls are unmar- 
ried. I state this for the benefit of the young men 
on board, as the Indian pilot says he wants a " heap 
Yankee" for his girls. I am engaged to my Mary 
Jane, and they can't have me. 

A description of Caughnawaga would not be 
amiss. Note the line of palatial residences along the 
bank beyond the church, the windows and doors 
kicked out to give them light and air, the palace gar- 
dens in the front part of the back end of the house. 



Ill 



The laundry of Caughnawaga is usually hung on the 
fence; it is not^wash day to-day, as you can perceive. 
The bath-room is the whole water-front, but it is 
seldom used. The water-works is that barrel on the 
shore. The fair damsel waving her lily white hand is 
Mary Jane, my best girl. She comes out every day 
to welcome me, as she thinks I am on board. You 
can get her eye and have a flirtation, the same as I 
have had for years, and not make me jealous. That 
large brick structure is the centennial building, built 
during the centennial year by the celebrated Indian 
Chief, White Kicker. I think they used him to kick 
the windows and doors out of ,the palatial residences 
previously spoken of. 

Caughnawaga, signifying "Praying Indian" (my 
friend Ben Butler says they spell it with an e), is well 
laid out for an Indian village, with a population of 
900, all Indians ; no whites can live here. 

The finest crops raised in this section of the coun- 
try are raised just below Caughnawaga. They raise 
them with a derrick. It is a blasted crop, however, 
and of no use until it is. This notable quarry is 
where most of the stones come from for the con- 
struction of the locks in the new Lachine canal — the 
entrance to which is at Lachine, the village just 
passed at the foot of the lake, on the left. 

THE VILLAGE OF LACHINE 

is a favorite resort for Montrealers in summer. The 
inhabitants number about 2,000, but it is frequently- 
augmented in the season to 9,000 or 10,000. Note 
the large buildings, which are the church. Villa de 
Marie Convent, the School and University for the 
education of priests. 



112 



Our pilot being on board, he will now show his 
Injinuity in piloting a boat down the Lachine 
Rapids. Before reaching the rapids the tourists can 
see the aqueduct that supplies the city of Montreal 
with water. 

THE LACHINE RAPIDS 

differ from all the rest ; it is simply an intricate 
channel through rock. Take your position upon either 
side of the boat and you will know when we come to 
the most important point, as the boat will be headed 
direct for a little island, which is nothing more nor 
less than a few loads of dirt upon a huge ledge of 
rock. Keep your eye upon the bow of the boat and 
you will be lead to exclaim, "why, we are going to 
strike the island;" and if you are a betting person or 
a truthful one, you would almost swear we could not 
help but strike ; but when within less than ten feet, 
we make a very sudden turn to the right, with a 
grand pitch or lurch, in which you will think the 
boat drops ten feet. We pass alongside of a 
ledge of rocks for about half a mile, to see which 
you must be upon the right hand side of the boat ; at 
the end of this ledge of rock we have a perfect 
miniature Niagara, a little water-fall for a cent. Do 
not allow the lurching of the boat from side to side, 
to cause you any uneasiness, as there is no danger, 
because a side wheel boat has guards from four to 
ten feet projecting over on each side from the hull, 
60 to 90 feet long, so that when that flat surface 
strikes the water by lurching, that is as far as she 
can go, therefore, will always righten herself immedi- 
ately. I have had a great deal of sport in this way. 



113 

When the boat had lurched over as far as she could, I 
would immediately exclaim: "Oh! I am on the 
wrong side," and proceed to the high side, when the 
boat would immediately righten up and the passen- 
gers would think I did it, but she would have 
rightened without my aid. Yet I have heard some 
very strong-minded women, after seeing the effect ot 
my moving to the high side of the boat, exclaim : 
"Put that big man off; he has too much weight to be 
upon a boat in the rapids." This is the last rapid 
built on the St. Lawrence, you can have it the best 
one if you like and I will not quarrel with you for 
it. All I ask you to do is to stop at the hotels who 
advertise in my book and tell them I was the cause 
of your visit, and if they do not treat you well I will 
proceed to sit down upon them, not mentally, but 
physically, and they will never have occasion to treat 
any one else badly. Passing the foot of the rapids, a 
first view of Montreal on the left, and on the right is 
the village of La Prairie. The first mountain on 
the left is Mount Bruno ; second, Bellisle ; the thirds 
St. Pie. The next and last sensation on the trip 
is passing under 

VICTORIA BRIDGE, 

the largest and longest tubular bridge in the world, 
was built by Mr. Stephenson in i860 for the Grand 
Trunk Railroad, by which it is owned and controlled. 
It is a mile and three quarters of iron, two miles and 
a quarter with its approaches from shore. It is 
wholly of iron, top, bottom and sides — an iron tunnel 
or box, as it were. There are twenty-four abutments, 
built wedge shaped (to crush the immense ice fields 



114 

that pass through this section, which, previous to the 
building of the bridge, did immense damage to Mon- 
treal during the spring freshets. There are no such 
things as freshets on the St. Lawrence, the Ottawa 
flovving in some miles above causing such disasters), 
upon which rest the sections of iron. The spans are 
from 250 to 360 feet long each, and the center span is 
about 60 feet high. The bridge tubes are 16x22 feet. 
It contains no wagon road or foot path, and is used 
by the G. T. R. and its connecting lines. The cost of 
this immense work was $6,250,000, about one-half of 
which amount went to fatten the contractors. I was 
not one of them. I mention this on account of my 
size, and for fear someone might think I was wealthy. 
Tne bridge is constructed of sheets of iron with a 
two-inch edge turned up and riveted to each other. 
It is fastened to the center, loose on both ends on 
rollers, and is provided with a sliding track, so that 
there is no danger by expansion or contraction to 
passing trains. It expands and contracts from three 
and one-half to seven inches. The bridge is kept in 
thorough repair and well painted. The small holes, 
or perforations in the sides of the bridge, were 
originally intended to convey the smoke out, but 
found inadequate for that purpose ; therefore they 
caused to be erected a line of flues the whole length. 
Now if any smoke remains it is carried out in a 
hand-basket. The two movable scaffolds you see are 
used by the workmen in repairing and painting. It 
is not a draw bridge, and as we pass under the center 
span and not over it, you need not remove your hat 
if you remain on the deck. After passing under the 
bridge you will have a magnificent view of 



115 



MONTREAL HARBOR. 

The points of interest in the harbor will all be 
described to you as we pass over St. Lambert's shoal, 
a very dangerous passage, previous to landing at the 
Quebec boat, where we transfer such passengers as 
desire to visit Quebec. The island you see front on 
the right is St. Helen's Isle, used by the citizens of 
Montreal for pleasure, picnic parties, etc. A ferry 
plies between the city and island every half hour, 
from morning until 7 p. m. On Sunday from 3,000 
to 20,000 persons visit the island, mostly French 
Canadians, three-fifths of whom comprise the popu- 
lation of Montreal. In the distant front on the left 
is the oldest church in Montreal ; to the left of that, 
the largest building with the dome, is the Bonsecour 
Market and old City Hall. The new City Hall is 
that large building in the rear with the dome in the 
center and four columns — one in each corner. 
Across the road to the left, that long building, is the 
Court House. At the head of Jacques Cartier Square 
is a magnificent column erected to the memory of 
Admiral Lord Nelson. At the foot of the square 
lies a steamer of the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation 
Company. There are two steamers on this line, 
notably the Montreal and Quebec. This company 
owns twenty-one side-wheel boats. The Quebec line 
has the largest boats that float the St. Lawrence 
River; they will compare favorably with the boats of 
the Sound or the Hudson River — triple-decked palace 
boats, built of Bessemer steel ; one has a capacity of 
360 state rooms — the other 280. The distance to 
Quebec is 180 miles, and the fare on this line is only 



ii6 

$2.50 — the cheapest on the continent. Beyond, on 
the left, the two massive towers you see belong to 
the French church of Notre Dame. It is not a 
Cathedral, but simply a parish church. (The Cathe- 
dral is on Dominion Square, in process of erection, 
and when complete, will be one-half the size of St. 
Peter's at Rome). It is the largest on the continent? 
and has contained within its walls, front porch and 
stairways, on the 24tli of June last (St. John's Day), 
twenty-two thousand souls. Beyond is the Custom 
House, with the clock in the tower, and still further 
up, the examining warehouse of the Custom House, 
as well as the office, docks and steamers of the Allen 
line. The first stop is at Quebec boat ; passengers for 
Montreal remain on deck, as this line is compelled to 
enter the first lock in the Lachine Canal; the gates 
close and the water is allowed to enter, which raises 
the boat to the level of the lock, when the passengers 
are allowed to depart. Montreal is the commercial 
metropolis of the Dominion, with a population of 
160,000, three-fifths of which are French Canadians. 
The docks, piers, wharves,- etc., of Montreal are the 
finest on the continent. It is the second city of com- 
mercial importance. New York being first. Six 
steamship companies leave here weekly for Europe 
during the summer season, and a large amount of 
business must of necessity be done, as its channel is 
closed during five months of the winter. The water 
front is all lighted with the electric light, so that 
work is carried on during the summer months night 
and day. On top of the revetment wall was built 
last season a dyke or strong barricade ten feet high ; 
it serves as a check to the water during the spring 
freshets to prevent the overflowing and damage of 



117 

the sudden rise of previous years. Having selected 
your hotel and arrived at the same, our next duty 
will be to see the sights of 

MONTREAL. 

It is situated at the head of navigation for ocean 
vessels, 540 miles from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on 
the Island of Montreal, which lies between the two 
great rivers of the North, the St. Lawrence and the 
Ottawa. The island is about 32 miles in length, 
and at its widest some ten in breadth ; it is so fertile 
as to be called the garden of the Province. The 
surface of the land is level, with the exception of the 
eminence of Mount Royal, which rises 550 feet above 
the river level. Mount Royal gives the name to the 
city which lies at its base. The settlement of the 
town was originally determined by the first explorer, 
Jacques Cartier, in 1535, at which time an Indian 
village, Hochelaga, occupied the spot. The perma- 
nent founding of the place, however, did not occur 
until 1642, and in one hundred years of growth there- 
after it gathered a population of 4,000. It was under 
French rule until 1760, when it passed into the hands 
of the British. In 1832 the cholera raged in Montreal 
with great violence, carrying off 1,843 inhabitants in 
a population of about 30,000. In April, 1849, a 
political mob burnt the Parliament buildings, which 
were erected on McGill street, and the seat of Gov- 
ernment was, in consequence, transferred to Quebec, 
thence to Toronto, and finally to Ottawa, where it 
remains. In July, 1852, a destructive fire laid waste 
a large portion of the city, burning no houses and 
consuming property valued at $1,400,000. Notwith- 



n8 

standing these reverses, the city recovered, and to-day 
numbers a population of 160,000. Years of industry 
and enterprise have produced growth and improve- 
ment in Montreal, such as but few American cities 
can boast of, and perhaps one — Chicago — has exceeded. 
At the beginning of the present century, vessels of 
more than 300 tons could not ascend to Montreal, 
and its foreign trade was carried on by brigs and 
barges. Now ocean steamships of over 6,000 tons, 
the floating palaces of the Richelieu & Ontario 
Navigation Company, and ships of from 700 to 6,000 
tons from all parts of the world, occupy the wharves 
of the harbor, which are not equaled on this continent 
in point of substantial construction, convenience and 
cleanliness. The old part of Montreal, near the 
river, has narrow incommodious streets ; but the new 
growth of the city toward Mount Royal has been 
liberally laid out, with wide and cheerful thorough- 
fares. The architecture here is very fine ; the material 
chiefly used is a zinc-colored lime-stone, extensively 
quarried three miles from the city. The public 
buildings, banks and principal warehouses are solid 
and handsome enough to adorn a European capitaU 
The great wealth of the Roman Catholic Church has 
enabled it to erect many magnificent churches, hos- 
pitals and convents, always in a very massive and 
enduring style. Other denominations seem to have 
been excited by emulation, and vie wnth each other 
in the beauty and elegance of their places of worship. 
Among the evidences of the French origin of the city 
are to be noticed a few curious old buildings to be 
found lingering here and there about Jacques Cartier 
Square, or occupying sites on the eastern part of the 
river front. The old houses are built somewhat like 



119 

fortifications, and have heavily vaulted cellars, wherein 
treasure mi^ht be stored or a defense made against 
hostile foes, in the days when Indians and whites, 
French and British were fighting and plundering 
each other. The French Canadians in the citv con- 
tinue still to be a little more than half the population, 
and, although their language here has not been 
unaffected by the constant intercourse with English- 
speaking people, it is not, as commonly supposed, a 
patois^ but such French as was spoken by the polite 
and educated in France, when the emigrants who first 
settled Canada left the shore of their mother-land. 
The naming of many of the streets of Montreal after 
saints and holy things, reminds one that its founders 
were not exiles nor adventurers, but enthusiastic 
missionaries. 

PLACES OF INTEREST. 

The Post Office is built on St. James street, the 
chief thoroughfare of this city, opposite the new St. 
Lawrence Hall. The reason why I use the word new 
may be asked. Well, the hotel has been newly refitted, 
the corner building purchased, one hundred elegant 
and commodious rooms added, with baths and 
closets, electric bells and elevators, ladies reception 
room, new and elegantly furnished suits of rooms 
added. The old proprietor, Mr. Hogan, pronounced 
by connoisseurs to be the best landlord in the 
Dominion, has assumed the proprietorship and has 
associated with him as manager, Mr. Samuel Mont- 
gomery, the best choice that could be made, as he 
is an American from the Pacific slope, where they 
know how to keep a hotel. I therefore cheerfully 



I20 

recommend you to stop at the new St. Lawrence 
Hall during your stay in Montreal. Starting from 
there, it being the center, every point of interest is 
within fifteen minutes' walk of this hotel. The first 
building to the left is the new Post Office, recently 
finished, with a richly decorated exterior, and every 
internal improvement which modern ingenuity has 
devised. Adjoining it is the Bank of Montreal, in 
the Corinthian style of architecture, with a sculpture 
on the pediment depicting native Indians, a sailor 
and settler with the em.blems of the arts and trade. 
The corporation occupying this noble building is the 
richest one of the kind in America. It has branches 
in every town of importance in the Dominion, and 
has offices in New York, Chicago and London. It 
issues letters of credit on all parts of the world. Its 
capital and reserve fund amount to $18,000,000. 
Adjoining is the Imperial Fire Insurance Co. 's new 
building. Crossing the street, on the left hand 
corner, in process of erection, is the commercial 
building of the New York Life Insurance Com- 
pany. Adjoining are other banks, having their 
offices on Place d'Arms, — the Jacques Cartier, 
Ontario, Quebec and National Banks. On the 
south side of the square, the great parish church 
of Notre Dame looms up. The dimensions of this 
vast Norman edifice are 225 feet in length and 134 in 
width. Its towers are 220 feet high; the western 
one contains the largest bell in America, " Gross 
Bourdon," in weight 29,400 pounds. The seating 
capacity of the church is 10,000. It has recently been 
decorated in deep colors and gold, after the manner 
of the St. Chapelle at Paris. An elevator was added 
making the tower easy of access to visitors. Sus- 



121 



pended over the westeiTi gallery, and near the grand 
altar, is an immense wooden crucifix. This was 
brought from France two centuries ago, and first set 
up in the church built on the ground now Place 
d'Arms. Adjoining Notre Dame is the venerable 
Seminary of St. Sulpice, with its old gateway, court- 
yard and clock. The gentlemen of this seminary 
originally held valuable rights affecting the entire 
island of Montreal ; much of the land yet remains in 
their hands. With the wealth thus brought to their 
coffers, they have liberally established and conducted 
many institutions of charity and education scattered 
throughout the city. We are now on Notre Dame 
street, formerly the chief retail street, in Montreal. 
Turning eastward a few feet from Notre Dame church, 
on the left, 167 1, J. & E. McEntyre, merchant tailors. 
They make all my clothes and have for the past six- 
teen years, therefore if they can fit me further com- 
ments are unnecessary. A little above is Lanthier & 
Co. Let us go on, we shall soon arrive at the Court 
House, a fine Giecian building of simple and massive 
appearance. A few steps further on the right brings 
us to Nelson's monument, setting forth in bas-relief 
the various victories which the great naval hero won 
without the loss of a single British ship. This monu- 
ment is in Jacques Cartier Square, at the foot of 
which is the wharf of Quebec steamers. 

Keeping on Notre Dame street, directly beside the 
monument, we find opposite to each other two build- 
ings which form a sharp contrast. The one on the 
left is the new City Hall, a lofty and ornate speci- 
men of French architecture ; facing it is the "old 
chateau," a structure probably thought very fine a 
century ago, when Benjamin Franklin set up in it 



122 



the first printing press ever used in the city. Now 
the old place is a Normal school, and the discoveries 
of the illustrious American are explained there, and 
let us hope his witty sayings repeated and acted upon. 
We can now take our way to the river side, and a 
block from Jacques Cartier Square shall find Bon- 
secours Market, a vast substantial Doric structure. 
Here, if it be market day, w^e may see a little of the 
French Canadian peasantry, clad in their homespun, 
and bargaining about their fowls, or eggs, or butter, 
with many queer words and phrases now almost for- 
gotten in the Normandy, whence they were first 
brought. Next to the market is Bonsecours Church, 
a rough-cast building with a high pitched roof, and 
with a breadth of a few feet adjoining it, occupied by 
cobblers and cake shops. This church is the oldest 
Roman Catholic one in the city ; its entrance is at 
the farther side ; rarely is it unoccupied by some wor- 
shippers from the adjacent market, who bring in, 
without ceremony, their baskets and bundles. Sus- 
pended over the altar is a model of a ship in bright 
tin, in which usually burning tapers are placed. 
Returning, on the water-front, we note the ships and 
steamers from Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Havre, 
Rotterdam and other ports ; and on the right succes- 
sively pass the Custom House, a triangular building, 
with a clock tower ; the office of the Allen line, also 
having a clock, and the fine building of the Harbor 
Commissioners. Next to it is a curious looking pile, 
with external hoist- ways from top to bottom ; this is 
the Customs Examining Warehouse. Before we leave 
this vicinity, we shall glance backward at the street 
from Allen's office to the Custom House. 



123 

Taking a short journey, still upon the river front, 
we come to the great works of stone-masonry, which 
give to Montreal an enlarg^ed canal to Lachine, so 
that vessels of much greater tonnage than the ones 
at present used may be employed in the grain trade. 
This enterprise is one of a series of canal improve- 
ments by which Canada strives to retain and increase 
its business as a highway for the shipment of western 
produce to the sea-board. 

Retracing our steps, we take the wide street running 
up from the city, McGill, and mark the fine ware- 
houses that adorn it. Arriving at Notre Dame street, 
a little above, on the left, John Murphy & Co., who 
invite you to inspect their stock, styles and prices. 
Adjoining is Mr. S. Carsley, who occupies the six 
or seven stores in succession. Something should be 
said here relative to Mr. Carsley's establishment, 
which is admitted to be the finest as well as the 
largest in Canada. In doing so I shall not speak of 
the man but of the sterling features adopted as a 
guide in the past, which gave him prosperity and 
success. To secure the finest and best goods, fresh 
from the factories or trade-centers, this establishment 
has its principal house in London, Eng., as well as a 
resident buyer there. It also selects four of the best 
judges of goods required for the home market, who 
go to the trade-centers of Europe two or three times 
each year with "carte blanche" to make any pur- 
chases required. The imported as well as the domestic 
goods are all marked in plain figures, so that each 
purchaser may know the price ; therefore a child can 
buy as well as a grown person. I cheerfully request 
you to visit this model establishment and inspect the 
styles, goods and prices, and if you do not make a 



124 

purchase it will be because you will receive so much 
for your money that you will be afraid you cannot 
carry it home. Retracing our steps back to McGill 
street, we turn to the right, and immediately in front, 
just one block, is Victoria Square, which contains a 
statue of the Queen, by Marshall Wood. Corner St. 
James street, opposite, on the left, is the Albert 
Building. Turning to the right we enter St. James 
street. The first building of note on the right is the 
Ottawa Buildings ; on the left is J. J. Milloy, the 
tailor, where tailor-made suits for ladies are a 
specialty. A little further on the right is G. W. Clark, 
the Souvenir Palace, where, if you enter, the sight of 
such rare curiosities and splendid souvenirs will cause 
you to wonder how you got in without a ticket ; and 
a little above is Drysdale & Co., where cheap English 
reprints of all the popular American authors may be 
had. This is the largest book-store in Canada. A little 
opposite on the left is R. Sharpley & Sons, No. 225, 
their new store; you are cordially invited to see and 
inspect their new stock. "Alexander's" is a little above, 
where is kept a first-class restaurant, confections, 
" bon-bons," etc., and you can be served with the best 
the market affords. On our way to the Post Office, 
from whence we started, at the corner of St. Peter 
street is the Mechanics' Institute. This building con- 
tains a good library, the admission fee to which is only 
nominal, and a very good reading room, having on its 
tables the principal dailies of America, the London 
Tt??ies, the Glasgow Herald, the Dublin Warder, the 
Edinburgh Scotsvian, and all the weeklies, monthlies 
and quarterlies of both England and the United States. 
Strangers can have free access to this reading-room, 
for the period of two weeks, by applying to Mr. 



T25 

Hogan, the proprietor of the new St. Lawrence Hall. 
Opposite to the Mechanics' Institute is the Merchants 
Bank, built in modern Italian style, with polished 
granite columns at the entrance ; the interior of this 
bank should be seen ; the main office is carried up two 
stories in height and is beautifully frescoed. Diagon- 
ally across the street is Moulson's Bank, also of Italian 
design, and richly decorated. We are now nearly at 
the hotel again, where we may conclude for the 
present our inspection of the city. 

Resuming our sight-seeing, we shall now leave 
behind us the business streets, and take our way to 
the upper part of Montreal. Our suggestion is, to 
take St. James street to the first crossing on the right 
as you leave the hotel, St. Peter street. After two 
blocks this street changes its name to Bleury street. 
At No. 17 Bleury street, we may enter Notman's 
studio, a large handsome building entirely devoted to 
photographic art. Here we may spend half an hour 
very pleasantly in looking over views of Canadian 
scenery, and portraits taken singly or skillfully 
grouped, representing the sports and pastimes of our 
winter. The chief of these pictures is that which 
shows a carnival held at the Victoria Skating Rink 
eight years ago, when H. R. H. Prince Arthur was 
present. This photographic marvel, with others now 
surrounding it on the walls of Mr. Notman, attracted 
great attention and admiration at the Centennial 
Exhibition. Mr. Notman was photographer to the 
Exhibition and received its highest awards. 

Continuing on Bleury street, we soon reach, on the 
left, the Church of the Jesu, with St. Mary's College 
adjoining it, conducted by the Jesuit Fathers. This 
church is modeled after one of the same name at 



126 

Rome, where the remains of Loyola are entombed. 
The style of architecture is the round Roman arch. 
The interior is one of the most beautiful among 
American churches. Over the high altar is a fresco 
of the crucifixion. In the southern transept the 
sufferings of the first Canadian martyr, burnt by 
savages, are depicted. Leaving the elegant house of 
prayer, we shall continue on Bleury street until we 
come to St. Catherine street. A few steps bring us 
to the Nazareth Asylum for the Blind, attached to 
which (No. 1091) is a most ornate chapel, decorated 
in such a lovely manner as to lead one to suppose 
that it was done to encourage the suffering inmates 
of the asylum to see. 

Next building on this side of the street (No. 1097) 
is the Roman Catholic Commercial Academy, a lordly 
monument of wealth and munificence, containing all 
the modern appliances for the practical training of 
youth, and presided over by an able staff of pro- 
fessors. If we keep going eastward on St. Catherine 
street, we pass on St. Dennis street the immense 
parish church of St. James, with the tallest spire in 
the city. Near by is the new church which is dedi- 
cated to Notre Dame De Lourdes ; water and relics 
from her shrine at Lourdes, in France, are for sale in 
the basement. Adjoining the church are its con- 
ventual buildings. 

Returning on St. Catherine street, we soon come 
to Christ Church Cathedral (Church of England), 
unquestionably the most beautiful specimen of Gothic 
architecture in Canada. It is of a cruciform design; 
its extreme width is 100 feet. The spire, which is 
entirely of stone, rises to the height of 224 feet. The 
materials of construction are Montreal limestone 



127 

and stone from Caen, in Normandy, which latter, by- 
exposure to the weather, has changed from almost 
pure whiteness to a yellow tint. On the grounds of 
the Cathedral are erected the residences of the bishop 
and his assistants, the Synod Hall, and also a fine 
monument to Bishop Fulford, the first Metropolitan 
of Canada. The street running on the farther side of 
the Cathedral, is University street, and No. 82, one 
block distant, is the Natural History Museum, con- 
taining a good Canadian collection. University street 
leads us down to Dorchester street, on the corner of 
which is the St. James Club House. On the opposite 
corner is the Free Eraser Library Building. Taking 
Dorchester street eastward, we pass on the left St. 
Paul's Church (Presbyterian). On the same side we 
soon have a view of the vast proportions of the new 
St. Peter's Roman Catholic Cathedral. 

Across the square on which St. Peter's is building, 
we notice a beautiful church, St. George's (Church of 
England), and adjoining it is its Sunday-school, the 
largest and best conducted in Canada. On Dorches- 
ter street, fronting Dominion Square on Peel street, 
is the Windsor Hotel. A little below on Windsor 
street is the new depot of the Canada Pacific R. R., 
the largest and grandest in Canada. Next beyond on 
Dorchester street is the Victoria Skating Rink, where 
immense carnivals are held in the winter — the grand- 
est in the world. In the summer the spacious edifice 
is used for concerts, walking matches, public gather- 
ings, meetings, etc. Two blocks distant is the Found- 
ling Hospital of the Gray Nun, a visit to which is thus 
described : "A long procession of the nuns marched 
slowly into the chapel and knelt in prayer. Each 
nun had a crucifix and a string of beads attached, 



128 

and whatever may have been the case with their 
thoughts, there eyes never wandered, notwithstanding- 
strangers were gazing at them. Some were young 
and pretty, others old and plain, but the sacred char- 
acter of their labor of love invested them all with 
beauty. We said the eyes of none wandered. Per- 
haps we ought to confess that the quick, sharp glance 
of one, apparently younger than the others, stared at 
us for a moment ; but it was only curiosity — womanly 
curiosity — and what woman has not the curiosity to 
look at me ? Yet that moment was fruitful of thought, 
and as we saw the sad, dark-eyed beauty rise in her 
place and mechanically follow her more staid sisters, 
our mind went back to the days of chivalry, when 
gallant knights rode with lance at rest, or wielded the 
heavy battle axe in heroic deeds that they might win 
recognition from the proud ladies who looked down 
upon them. And as we thought, it seemed that the 
most gallant deeds that men of this nineteenth 
century might do, would be to rescue young and 
pretty nuns — who wanted to be rescued— from the 
silence and sadness of the nunnery." Again on our 
way, we are arrested by an immense structure even 
larger than the institution just passed; it is the Mon- 
treal College, which educates ecclesiastics, and also 
day pupils, and is under the care of the Sulpician 
fathers. Two Martello towers in front of the college 
are relics of the times when incessant strife raged 
between the settlers and the Indians. Sherbrooke 
street is adorned with the private residences of which 
the citizens of Montreal are proud, and in your drive 
around the town, previous to or after returning from 
Park Mountain drive, it will repay one to drive 
through Sherbrooke, Dennis and Dorchester streets. 



129 

The McGill College, University and spacious grounds 
are the next points. 

As we pass along Sherbrooke street, in the distance 
we observe, as we glance up St. Famille street, the 
enormous Hotel Dieu, with a large, bright dome, a 
free hospital for all, under Roman Catholic direction. 

Returning to the Post Office, preferably by Beaver 
Hall Hill, we shall not fail to be struck by the num- 
ber of handsome churches erected there together. 
On the right is the Unitarian church ; on the left, 
successively, a Presbyterian, Baptist and a Jewish 
synagogue. Near by, on Craig street, is a towered 
building occupied by the Young Men's Christian 
Association. 

We are soon at the new St. Lawrence Hall, and 
before mentioning the drive that may be taken out- 
side the city, it may be well to call attention to a few 
places near at hand a business man or student may 
be interested in visiting : The Corn Exchange, foot of 
St. John street, the Merchants' Exchange, St. Sacra- 
ment street, the office of the Telegraph Co., and the 
Open Stock Exchange, St. Francis Xavier street. 
Near the beginning of St. James street, on St. 
•Gabriel street, is the Geological Museum, open daily 
from lo to 4, containing an admirable collection of 
North American minerals, and many interesting fos- 
sils. Here may be seen what many geologists regard 
as the most primitive record of life, the Eoxoon 
Canaddense, first noticed at Perth, Ontario, by a Mr, 
Wilson. From the fact that the oldest fossil bearing 
stratum, the Laurentian, is the backbone, geograph- 
ically of Canada, and because of the great variety of 
rocks found in the immediate vicinity of Montreal, 
this museum is particularly attractive to a lover of 



I30 

science. An effort is on foot to deprive the city of 
this collection, and, for the sake of centralization, 
remove it to Ottawa. I offer this as an apology in 
case it should be removed. 

DRIVES. 

As I have said two or three times, by far the most 
pleasant drive is up the brow of Mount Royal, called 
the Park Mountain drive. There are, presumably, 
two roads ; the shorter returns by McTavish street, 
the other by Bleury. The park was laid out by Mr. 
Olmstead, the designer of Central Park, New York, 
whose achievements there were recognized by a statue 
adorning one of the entrances. The river view from 
Mount Royal is delightful, and must be seen to be 
appreciated. I dare not attempt to describe it. A 
suggestion of how to get a hundred pictures of every 
conceivable shape or form of landscape views, con- 
taining mountain, plain, river, lake, hillside, valley 
etc., etc., is to close the eyes, place the hands on each 
end of the forehead, and every time the carriage moves 
a hundred feet open the eyes, and you have an entire 
new picture. Keep this up until you have had an 
elegant sufficiency of view. The next drive is around 
the mountain, and was the best until the completion 
of the Park mountain drive; it is pleasant and 
attractive, when it includes a drive to the Catholic and 
Protestant cemeteries, giving a view of the monuments 
and tombs. The drive to Lachine is next, and is of 
interest. The drive to Longue Point, along the St. 
Lawrence in the opposite direction to the last, gives 
us an entirely different kind of scenery. It takes us 
through the village of Hochelaga, the terminus *of the 



131 

new railroad, the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa and 
Occidental, which runs along the north shore of the 
St. Lawrence, and develops tracts of country as yet 
unbenefited by the iron horse. About a mile from the 
depot is the beautiful convent of the Sisters of the 
Holy Names of Jesus and Mary. Many young ladies 
from the United States have been educated at this 
convent. The next noteworthy building is the Lunatic 
Asylum. This immense house, containing nearly 300 
maniacs, idiots and imbeciles, is controlled by the 
Sisters of Providence; these ladies, with the exception 
of six guardians for desperate characters, and a phy- 
sician, have sole charge. They find no trouble in the 
care of the numerous inmates, and by their kindness 
and tact restore mental balance, in all the cases where 
cure is possible, in a tithe the time it used to take in 
the old days, when the insane were treated with 
harshness and cruelty. On our way to Longue 
Point, the village of Longueuil, Boucherville and 
Varennes lie on the opposite bank of the river. The 
drive to the Back River is an attractive one, and 
with citizens the most attractive of all ; the beautiful 
convent of the Sacred Heart is situated here, and its 
grounds, finely laid out, lead directly to the water's 
edge. The bridge which spans the river at this place 
— a branch of the Ottawa— affords one of the charac- 
teristic sights of Canada, the piloting of a raft through 
a tortuous channel. The size of an ordinary raft, its 
great value, from ^100,000 to $300,000, the excitement 
of the captain and his French and Indian crew, with 
the constant perils threatening the whole structure, 
all conjoin to make up a scene to be dwelt upon and 
long remembered. Thus hoping the same will be 



132 

said of your visit to Montreal, I shall advise all to 
visit 

QUEBEC. 

Tourists can either take the Grand Trunk, the 
North Shore, or the Richelieu & Ontario Navigation 
Co.'s line of steamers. Tickets can be procured of 
the Company's agent opposite the new St. Lawrence 
Hall building, where staterooms, etc., maybe secured. 
I assume that the river is the route selected, and that 
the reader is fairly on his way to that ancient city and 
former capital. Passing a group of islands below 
Montreal and the mouth of the Ottawa River, we 
soon arrive at 

SOREL, 

forty-five miles below — the first landing made by the 
steamer. It was built upon the site of a fort built in 
17555 by M. De Tracy, and was for many years the 
summer residence of many successive Governors of 
Canada. Five miles below, the broad expanse of the 
river is called 

LAKE ST. PETER, 

which is about nine miles wide. The St. Francis 
River enters here. Large rafts are observed here 
slowly floating to the great mart of Quebec. 

THREE RIVERS 

is situated at the confluence of the Rivers St. Maurice 
and St. Lawrence, ninety miles below Montreal, and 
the same distance above Quebec. It is one of the 



^33 

oldest settled towns in Canada, having been founded 
in 1618. It is well laid out and contains many good 
buildings, among which are the Court House, the 
Jail, the Roman Catholic Church, the Ursuline Con- 
vent, the English and Wesleyan Churches. The 
population of Three Rivers is about 9,200. 

BASTICAN 

is situated on the north shore of the river, one hun- 
dred and seventeen miles below Montreal. It is the 
last place the steamers stop at before reaching Quebec. 
It is a place of little importance. 

In passing down the St. Lawrence from Montreal, 
the country upon its banks presents a sameness in its 
general scenery, until we approach the vicinity of 
Quebec. The village and hamlets are decidedly 
French in character, generally made up of small 
buildings, the better class of which are painted white 
or whitewashed, with red roofs. Prominent in the 
distance appear the tile-covered spires of the Catholic 
Churches, which are all constructed in that unique 
style of architecture so peculiar to that church. 

During your stay in Quebec stop at the St. Louis 
Hotel, and if carriages are desired the hotel will 
furnish the same. This was made necessary in order 
to stop the imposition that is practiced by outside 
parties. N. B. — Fur Department and Indian Bazaar, 
St. Louis Hotel, Quebec. Tourists are invited to visit 
the Fur Wareroom adjoining the Ladies Parlor, con- 
taining one of the largest and most valuable stocks 
of furs in Canada at moderate prices. Ladies' sacques, 
caps and muffs, etc. J. C. King, Supt. There are 
four splendid drives laid out for the visitor and 



134 

tourist ; a neat little pamphlet descriptive of the same, 
entitled, "Views of the City of Quebec," will be 
given you by asking the clerk, Mr. J. H. Phillips, or 
the news agent, of the St. Louis Hotel. They are 
instructed not to give them ''free,'" unless you say I 
sent you for one or show them this notice. 

CITY OF QUEBEC. 

Quebec, by its historic fame and its unequaled 
scenery, is no ordinary or commonplace city, for 
though, like other large communities, it carries on 
trade, commerce and manufactures ; cultivates art, 
science and literature; abounds in charities, and pro- 
fesses special regard to the amenities of social life, 
it claims particular attention as being a strikingly 
unique old place, the stronghold of Canada, and, in 
fact, the Key of the Province. Viewed from any of 
its approaches, it impresses the stranger with the 
conviction of strength and permanency. The reader of 
American history, on entering its gates or wandering 
over its squares, ramparts and battle-fields, puts him- 
self at once in communion with the illustrious dead. 
The achievements of daring mariners, the labors of 
self-sacrificing Missionaries of the Cross, and the 
conflicts of military heroes, who bled and died. in the 
assault and defence of its walls, are here re-read with 
ten-fold interest. Then the lover of nature in her 
grandest and most rugged, as inhergentler and most 
smiling forms, will find in and around it an affluence 
of sublime and beautiful objects. The man of science, 
too, may be equally gratified, for here the great forces 
of nature and secret alchemy may be studied with 
advantage. Quebec can never be a tame or insipid 



135 

place, and with moderate opportunities for advance- 
ment, it must become one of the greatest cities of the 
New World in respect to learning, art, commerce and 
manufactures. 

The city of Quebec was founded by Samuel de 
Champlain, in 1608. In 1622 the population was 
reduced to fifty souls. 

In June, 1759, the English army under General 
Wolfe landed upon the Island of Orleans. On the 
12th of September took place the celebrated battle of 
the Plains of Abraham, which resulted in the death 
of Wolfe and the defeat of the French army. A force 
of 5,000 English troops, under General Murray, were 
left to garrison the fort. The city is very interesting 
to a stranger ; it is the only walled city in North 
America. 

Cape Diamond, upon which the citadel stands, is 
three hundred and forty-five feet in height, and 
derives its name from the quantity of crystal mix,ed 
with the granite below its surface. The fortress 
includes the whole space on the Cape. 

Above the spot where General Montgomery was 
killed, is now the inclined plane, running to the top of 
the bank ; it is five hundred feet long, and is used by 
the Government to convey stores and other articles 
of great weight to the fortress. 

THE CITADEL 

will, perhaps, prove the point of greatest interest to 
many, from the historical association connected there- 
with, and from the fact that it is considered an 
impregnable fortress. It covers an enclosed area of 
forty acres, and is some three hundred and forty feet 



136 

above the river level. The zigzag passages through 
which you enter the fortress, between high and mas- 
sive granite walls, is swept at every turn by formid- 
able batteries of heavy guns. On the forbidding 
river walls and at each angle of possible commanding 
point, guns of heavy calibre sweep every avenue of 
approach by the river. Ditches, breast-works and 
frowning batteries command the approaches by land 
from the famed ^'Plains of Abraham." The precipit- 
ous bluffs, rising almost perpendicularly from the 
river three hundred and forty feet, present a natural 
barrier which may be swept with murderous fire, and 
the covered ways of approach and retreat, the various 
kinds and calibre of guns, mortars, howitzers, and 
munitions of war, will be viewed with eager interest. 
Among the places of note may be mentioned the 
Plains of Abraham, with its humble monument mark- 
ing the place where fell the illustrious Wolfe ; the 
Governor's Garden, with its monument to Wolfe and 
Montcalm ; the spot where fell the American general, 
Montgomery ; St. John's Gate, the only gate remain- 
ing of the five that originally pierced the walls 
of the city ; the Roman Catholic Cathedral, with 
its many fine old paintings; the Episcopal Cathedral ; 
the Esplanade, from which is one of the finest views in 
the world ; Houses of Parliament ; Spencer Wood, the 
residence of the Lieutenant Governor, Laval Univer- 
sity, &c , &c. 

The city and environs abound in drives, varying 
from five to thirty miles, in addition to being on the 
direct line of travel to the far-famed Saguenay, 
Murray Bay, Kamouraska, Gacouna, Rimouski Gaspe, 
and other noted watering places. 



137 

Quebec can minister abundantly to the tastes of 
those who like to fish, yacht, or shoot. Yachting, in 
fact, has become of late the leading recreation in 
Quebec. You can on those mellow Saturday after- 
noons of August and September, meet the whole 
sporting and fashionable world of Upper Town on 
the Durham Terrace or Lower Town wharves, bent 
on witnessing a trial of speed or seamanship between 
the Mouette^ the Black Hawk^ the IVasp, the Shannon, 
the Bonhomme Richard^ and half a score of crack 
yachts, with their owners. 

Let us see what the city contains : — First, the 
west wing, built about 1789, by Governor Haldimand, 
to enlarge the old chateau burnt down in January, 
1734; this mouldering pile, now used as the Normal 
School, is all that remains of the stately edfice of old, 
overhanging and facing the Cul-de-Sac, where the 
lordly Count de Frontenac held his quasi regal court 
in 1691 ; next, the Laval University, founded in 1854, 
conferring degrees under its royal charter; the course 
of study is similar to that of the celebrated European 
University of Louvain; then there is the Quebec 
Seminary, erected by Bishop Laval, at Montmorency, 
in 1663 ; the Ursuline Convent, founded in 1836 by 
Madame de la Peltrie; this nunnery, with the Roman 
Catholic Cathedral, which was built in 1646, contains 
many valuable paintings, which left France about 
1789 ; the General Hospital, founded two centuries 
ago by Monseigneur de St. Vallier; in 1659, it was 
tne chief hospital for the wounded and the dying of 
the memorable battle of the 13th September ; Arnold 
and his Continentals found protection against the 
rigors of a Canadian winter behind its walls in 



138 

1775-6 ; the Hotel Dieu Nunnery, close to Palace 
Gate, dating more than 200 years back. 

As to the views to be obtained from Durham Ter- 
race, the Glacis and the Citadel, they are unique in 
grandeur. Each street has its own familiar vista of 
the surrounding country. 

THE SHRINE AND FALLS OF STE. ANNE. 

At the distance of about twenty miles below 
Quebec is the village of Ste. Anne de Beaupre, some- 
times called Ste. Anne du Nord, and always called 
La Bonne Ste. Anne, to whom is consecrated the parish 
church, erected about four years ago by the Pope into 
a shrine of the first order, in which is a fine painting 
by the famous artist LeBrun, Ste. Anne and the 
Virgin, presented by M. de Tracey, Viceroy of New 
France, in 1666, to the church, for benefits received. 
The festival day of this Saint is the 26th of July, at 
which time thousands of pilgrims proceed not only 
by steamer and carriage, but on foot, to this holy 
shrine ; many walk, the whole distance from Quebec to 
the church as a penance, or in performance of vows. 
The church is a new building, the old one having 
been found too small for the accommodation of the 
crowds of pilgrims who resorted there. In it are 
placed thousands of crutches, left by those who 
departed after being cured of the lameness and other 
maladies by the Bonne Ste. Anne, whose praises are 
world wide, for hither congregate daily thousands of 
pilgrims from all parts to be cured of their infirm- 
ities. Deposited in the sanctuary is a holy relic, 
being a finger bone of the saint herself, on kissing 
which the devotee is immediately relieved of all 



139' 

worldly ills and misfortunes. Wonder begins and 
misbelief vanishes on gazing at the piles of crutches; 
there one beholds unmistakable evidence of the 
unlimited medicinal powers of the mother of the 
Virgin. Daily are the proofs of this power; the 
stranger can see with his own eyes the decrepid, the 
halt, the sore, the lame, the wounded carried into the 
holy sanctuary and depart therefrom, after kissing the 
holy relic, cured and whole. Many are the scenes 
here witnessed of the despairing filled with renewed 
hope, and the feeble and faint glad again with 
strength and health. Countless are the anecdotes of 
the hopelessly blind and lame returning to their 
friends with sight and firm limbs, leaving behind 
them their bandages and crutches. Incredulity 
vanishes before such evidence, and the sceptic leaves 
the shrine of Ste. Anne with convictions deeply 
settled in his soul. Within three miles of the village 
are the Falls of Ste. Anne, which consists of seven 
cascades, one of which rushes through a narrow 
chasm, which can be leaped by one of strong nerves 
and sinews, but powerful as Ste. Anne is, and devoted 
as she is to miracles, it is doubtful whether even she 
could save the unfortunate who misses his leap. 

The fishing above and below the Falls is very good 
for both salmon and trout, and the scenery of that 
wild description generally characteristic of the 
Laurentian ranges. 

MONTMORENCY FALLS 

are seven miles below Quebec. The road is very 
pleasant, passing through the French village of 
Beauport. Those who expect to see a second Niagara 



140 

will be somewhat disappointed, as far as volume is 
concerned. The stream descends in silvery threads, 
over a precipice 265 feet in height, and, in connection 
with the surrounding scenery, is extremely pic- 
turesque and beautiful, but does not inspire the awe 
felt at Niagara. On June 8, 1887, with some friends 
we paid this delightful place a visit, and were enter- 
tained by the hotel proprietor, Mr. T. Bureau, in 
royal style, which, after the tramp over all the 
grounds and down the three hundred and sixty-five 
steps with the thermometer 85° in the shade, will 
always be retained as one of the grandest spots in 
memory. 

POINT LEVIS, 

on the other side of the river, opposite Quebec, will 
interest the stranger very much, immense and stu- 
pendous fortifications being in process of erection. 
Most tourists visiting Quebec pay the Saguena3^ a 
visit. The ticket office of this line is opposite the 
St. Louis Hotel, where my genial friend, Mr. R. M. 
Stocking, or his assistant, Mr. Henry Harris, will 
cheerfully impart any information required, he being 
the agent for all railroads and steamboats in Canada 
or that connect with the same in the United States. 

TO SUMMER TOURISTS. 

Visit St. Lawrence Hall Caconna. This elegant 
and spacious hotel, situated at the beautiful and 
fashionable Canadian \Yatering Place on the Lower 
St. Lawrence, one hundred and twenty miles below 
Quebec, opposite the mouth of the far-famed Saguenay 
River, opened for guests June 15th, under the manage- 



141 

ment of an American of hotel fame, who for many- 
years has been connected with the leading hotels 
in the United States. 

RIVER SAGUENAY. 

To the pleasure-seeker, or to the man of science, 
there can be nothing more refreshing and delightful, 
nothing affording more food for reflection or 
scientific observation, than a trip to that most won- 
derful of rivers, the Saguenay. On the way thither, 
the scenery of the Lower St. Lawrence is extraor- 
dinarily picturesque; a broad expanse of water, 
interspersed with rugged solitary islets, highly culti- 
vated islands, and islands covered with trees to the 
water's edge, hemmed in by lofty and precipitous 
mountains on the one side, and by a continuous street 
of houses, relieved by beautifully situated villages, 
the spires of whose tin-covered churches glitter in 
the sunshine, affords a prospect so enchanting that, 
were nothing else to be seen, the tourist would be 
well repaid ; but when, in addition to all this, the 
tourist suddenly passes from a landscape unsurpassed 
for beauty into a region of primitive grandeur, where 
art has done nothing, and nature everything; when, 
at a single bound, civilization is left behind and 
nature stares him in the face, in naked majesty ; when 
he sees Alps on Alps arise; when he floats over 
unfathomable depths, through a mountain gorge, the 
sublime entirely overwhelms the sense of sight and 
fascinates imagination. 

The change produced upon the thinking part ot 
man, in passing from the broad St. Lawrence into 
the seemingly narrow, and awful, deep Saguenay, 



142 

whose waters leave the sides of the towering moun- 
tains, which almost shut out the very light of heaven, 
is such that no pen can paint nor tongue describe. It 
is a river one should see if only to know what dread- 
ful aspects nature can assume in wild moods. Com- 
pared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest 
ravines cozy and smiling; it is wild and grand, 
apparently, in spite of itself. On either side, rise 
cliffs varying in perpendicular height from 1,200 to 
1,600 feet, and this is the character of the River 
Saguenay from its mouth to its source. Ha! Ha! 
Bay, which is 60 miles from its mouth, affords the 
first landing and anchorage. The name of this bay 
is said to arise from the circumstance of early navi- 
gators proceeding in sailing vessels up a river of 
this kind for 60 miles, with eternal sameness of 
feature, stern and high rocks on which they could 
not land, and no bottom for their anchors, at last 
broke out into laughing Ha ! Ha ! when they found 
landing and anchorage. This wonderful river seems 
one huge mountain rent asunder at some remote age 
by some great convulsion of nature. The reader who 
goes to see it (and all ought to do so who can, for it 
is one of the great natural wonders of the continent,) 
can add to the poetical filling up of the picture from 
his own imagination. 

This beautiful trip is easy and facile of accomplish- 
ment as new and magnificent boats, rivaling in lux- 
uriousness with any in our inland waters, run 
regularly to Ha ! Ha ! Bay, on board of which the 
pleasure seeker will experience all that comfort and 
accommodation which is necessary to the full enjoy- 
ment of such a trip. 



143 

To the foregoing descriptions we append an extract 
from the letter of a writer in the Buffalo Cojumercial 
Advertiser, who has apparently gone over the "ground" 
with much satisfaction. Speaking of the great pleas- 
ure route he says : 

" There is probably no route in the known world 
presenting more attractions to the tourist than that 
from Buff*alo to Montreal and Quebec, via Lake 
Ontario and the St. Lawrence river ; presenting, first, 
the visit to the great Cataract, next, Lake Ontario, 
the river St. Lawrence, and the romantic scenery of 
the 'Thousand Isles ;' then the sublime rapids, increas- 
ing in grandeur, to the great culmination of the 
'Lachine Rapids,' and finally finishing with the beauti- 
ful scenery of and around the falls of Montmorency, 
at Quebec, and down the Saguenay — all combine to 
make up more of the wild, romantic and sublime 
than can be found in the same number of miles and 
almost any travelled route in the known world." 

Returning to Montreal for our trip down Lake 
Champlain and Lake George, to Saratoga, Albany 
New York and Boston, as most of the tourists have 
tickets for these destinations, the routes need only 
be mentioned. The Delaware & Hudson Canal Com- 
pany Railroad, and Central Vermont have ticket 
offices in Montreal, where information is courteously 
dispensed by obliging, gentlemanly clerks at all 
times. It would be useless here to print the time 
tables of the different roads, as changes occur too 
often for such information to be reliable. As you 
are supposed to be quartered at the new St. Lawrence 
Hall, which is in the heart of the city, and contains 
the Grand Trunk Railroad and Delaware & Hudson 
Canal Company offices, where at all times may be 



144 

found Mr. C. C. McFall, the Delaware & Hudson 
Company's genial Agent for the Dominion of Canada, 
directly opposite is the Central Vermont office, pre- 
sided over by A. C. Stonegrave, any time-table 
required, is easily obtainable ; also adjoining is the 
office of the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Com- 
pany. 

All railroads issuing summer excursion tickets 
through, over this line, allow passengers, if they 
desire, to procure at Port Kent depot a ticket which 
entitles them to visit Au Sable Chasm and to return 
to Port Kent for 75 cents. The trip is made by the 
Port Kent, Au Sable and Keesville Stage Co., with 
the best of equipments over a splendid plank road, 
distance three miles. 

Leaving Montreal in the morning, by taking the 
first train on the Delaware & Hudson Canal P^ailroad, 
if you wish to make Lake George, Saratoga or 
Albany the same day, your ticket may read Lake 
Champlain Co. steamers, but it is all the same — boat 
and rail belong to the same parties. Should you 
desire to take Lake Champlain, leave Montreal in 
the afternoon and go to Au Sable Chasm, via Port 
Kent, remain over night at Lake View House, taking 
the boat at 8 a. m., from there to Fort Ticonderoga, 
and then down Lake George, or proceed on the train 
at 10:30. By getting off at Port Kent, the distance to 
Lake View House is only three miles by stage over a 
first-class plank road ; there is a movement on foot to 
build a railroad to Keesville which if completed you 
can take to the Lake View House; therefore, it may 
be said, if you desire to make both lakes on the same 
day, you are compelled to leave Montreal in the after- 
noon, and go to Au Sable Chasm via Port Kent, and 



MS 

remain over night at the Lake View Hotel, which 
will be found to be an excellent house, taking the 
boat in the morning. If tickets read by the Central 
Vermont Railway, you go to Burlington, where you 
arrive for supper, and as the boat does not leave 
there until nine o'clock in the morning, you have 
plenty of time to see that beautiful city before the 
leaving of the boat ; at any rate you won't have to 
rise as early as if you were at Plattsburg. 

MY FIRST VISIT TO AU SABLE CHASM. 

As long as anything shall remain green in my 
memory, I feel confident it will be the impression of 
that charming view and grand natural spectacle, Au 
Sable Chasm. 

Arising early in the morning, if not with the lark, 
a very good second in the race, I was invited by the 
manager of the Lake View House to visit the chasm. 
Accepting the same, we proceeded through the gate 
and down the steps which I did not stop to count; 
but the number was sufficient for a man of my weight, 
and as large bodies move slowly, I was behind the 
rest of our gay, hilarious party, because I remained 
to drink in the beauties my eyes were feasting upon. 
Reaching the end of the chasm, where we take the 
boat for the rapids, I did not have confidence to pro- 
ceed the rest of the journey with my companions (as 
I felt I was too large a crowd for the boat), but, return- 
ing as I came, which very few people do, I was more 
impressed by the grandeur of the scenery — more than 
going down. Returning to the hotel some hours after 
my party, I had stories to tell that caused many of 
them to return and make the trip that I had. If there 



146 

is any view on earth that will please you, it is the 
one obtained from any point at the Lake View House, 
Au Sable Chasm, looking at Lake Champlain and the 
Green Mountains of Vermont on one side, and the 
Chasm or Adirondacks on the other. 

Before the completion of the railroad, boats left 
Rouse's Point, on Lake Champlain, and a train left 
Montreal to connect ; but as the route on Lake 
Champlain has been discontinued from Rouse's Point 
to Plattsburg, really the most picturesque part of the 
trip down Lake Champlain being cut off, most of the 
tourists take the rail in the morning from Montreal 
and can pass through Lake Champlain by rail. The 
rail passing close along the lake shore, one gets a 
very nice view, better, as I have often expressed it, 
than if the parties were on the boat, as they cannot 
see both shores on a boat at once, unless the tourist's 
eyes were cut out on a bias or cross, thus enabling 
them to see both sides at once. The rail is preferable 
and saves time. As it is immaterial to me how you 
reach Ticonderoga, it is presumed you get there. 
Lake George Junction is where you change cars and 
connect for Baldwin, which is a ride of about fifteen 
minutes. You are now supposed to have arrived on 
board the company's steamers Horicon or Ticonderoga^ 
and are sailing up Lake George. Now, if the reader 
expects me to describe Lake St. George, 1 shall simply 
say No ! with a large N. It is too much ; its praises 
have been written and sung for the past half century 
by thousands. I shall with pleasure and relief to 
myself, ask the loan of your scissors. Thanks ; now 
we can comply with your wishes : We have started on 
our trip through this magical lake. It is difficult to 
describe the quiet delight one feels as he gazes on 



147 

the expanse of the tranquil azure spread before him 
like a part of the sky inlaid on the emerald bosom of 
the earth. Peace is in the very air which lazily 
slumbers over the water, while the monotone of the 
silvery ripples rolling on the yellow sands, and the 
musical moan of the breeze in the cone-scented pines, 
seem to carry the soul back to other days. LaJ^e 
George is, indeed, like a work of art of the highest 
order, for it has the quality of improving, the more 
one studies its attractions, and the ever-harmonious 
flow of lines constantly suggests a composition of 
consummate genius in which every effect has been 
combined to produce a certain ideal. 

Now, dear reader, I have a favor to ask of you ; 
read this little book as far as Saratoga description 
commences ; then lay it aside, and feast the eyes on 
Lake George for the next two hours, and, if you can 
describe its beauties, do so to the best of your ability, 
and forward to me, 21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. 
Y., and it shall have a place in this work, and you 
shall have the credit for the same ; — the task was too 
much for me. 

CAMPING OUT. 

The lake is a famous camping ground, during July 
and August, and its enjoyments, with bits of sound 
advice, can not be better given than by the following, 
unless you purchase one of Possons' Guides to Lake 
George, Lake Champlain and the Adirondacks — full 
of information, maps and illustrations, published by 
Chas. H. Possons, of Glen Falls, N. Y., and for sale 
on all steamers and news stands. 

" The lovely islands are suddenly astir with busy 
throngs. Rocks are decked with blue and gray, the 



148 

tree-tops blush with buntings; shores put on a flannelly 
hue, and shadowy points blossom out in duck and 
dimity. It is safe to say that in the course of the 
season a thousand people taste the pleasures and 
overcome the difficulties that but season the glorious 
dish of camp life at Lake George. Among the 
necessaries are a light axe, long handle frying-pan, 
tin pail for water or coffee, tin plate, pint cup, knife 
and fork, and fishing tackle. A stove top laid on a 
fire-place of stones and mud, and supplied with one 
length of stove-pipe, is a positive luxury to the cook. 
Spruce boughs for a bed, with two or three good 
woolen blankets for covering, will be found very 
comfortable ; a small bag to fill with leaves or moss 
for a pillow pays for itself in one night. Flannel or 
woolen clothing, with roomy boots and a soft felt 
hat, is ordinarily the safest dress. Ladies, wear what 
you have a mind to — you will, anyway — but let it be 
flannel next to you, good strong shoes under foot, 
and a man's felt hat overhead; take the man along 
too — he will be useful to take the fish off your hook, 
run errands, etc. 

" Boats and provisions may be obtained at almost 
any of the hotels. Bacon, salt pork, bread and butter, 
Boston crackers, tea, coffee, sugar, pepper and salt, 
with a tin box or two for containing the same, are 
among the things needed. Milk can be obtained 
regularly at the farm houses, and berries picked 
almost anywhere. Ice is a luxury which may be 
contracted for and thrown from the passing steamers 
daily ; a hole in the ground with a piece of bark over 
it forms a very good ice-box. A drinking cup of 
leather, to carry in the pocket, comes handy at times. 
Broad-brimmed straw hats are a nuisance. A shanty 



149 

of boughs will answer in absence of ianything better 
it sounds well when you talk about ' roughing it,' 
but it is bad in practice. A tent is best and may be 
made very comfortable with a little outlay of money 
and labor." 

THE ADIRONDACKS. 

The great wilderness of northeastern New York, 
the limits of which we will not try to define, is 
generally known as the North Woods, or as the Adi- 
rondacks, according to the view taken of its surface. 
The former title indicates merely a wild, densely 
wooded region ; the latter, a region occupied by all 
the varied scenery pertaining to a most remarkable 
lake and mountain system. This wild region of dense 
forest, majestic mountains, magnificent lakes and 
beautiful rivers, lies in the counties of Herkimer, 
Hamilton, Lewis, St. Lawrence, Clinton, Franklin and 
Essex, and aggregates over 3,500,000 acres, a tract of 
land of an area of nearly 100 square miles. This 
region is the only primitive hunting and fishing 
grounds left in New York State, and offering, as it 
does, rare health-restoring qualities, combined with 
excellent deer hunting, and the best of brook and 
lake trout fishing accessible, is yearly more than 
doubling its number of visitors — in fact, the limit is 
only measured by hotel capacity. It is not our pur- 
pose, nor would it be possible in so small a work as 
this, to go into details as to the wilderness, but guide- 
books are easily obtained, and The Delaware & 
Hudson R. R. issues a large amount of information 
upon the subject, which is easily obtainable from 
their General Passenger Agent, J. W. Burdick, 
Albany, N. Y. 



5c 



MY TRIP OVER THE GRAVITY RAIL- 
ROAD. 

In 1876, the centennial year, this country was visited 
by scores, yes hundreds, of foreign visitors who came 
to our shores in quest of sights. Up to this time the 
company owning and working the Gravity railroad 
persistently refused any one transportation over it. 
No matter how much they pleaded or petitioned there 
was not anything they could do to move the heart of 
that corporation. At last light came through the 
darkness ; a female lawyer conceived the idea that way 
back in 1813, when the road was first built, the right 
of way was given as a public highway, and so she de- 
manded transportion or they must abide the conse- 
quences. 

I have been a great traveler in my day and have seen 
almost everything on this continent that is worth see- 
ing. I was annoyed more by people asking questions 
about the Gravity railroad than as to any other spot 
in the country, so to the end that I might be in a better 
position to talk of it, 1 concluded to make the trip and 
see its beauties. Knowing that misery loves com- 
pany, I determined to take my daughter along, to the 
end that she could have the misery while I could be in 
good company. 

We left Albany, N. Y., on Wednesday morning 
at 8:30 o'clock, over the Delaware and Hudson 
Canal Company's railroad. Station after station 
was passed ; our eyes feasting upon the beauties 
of the mountain, valley, river, hillside and plain, 
but we had left that most beautiful of all pictures, Lake 
George, so could not drink in the ever changing 



151 

scenes as we otherwise would. We were almost in 
dreamland when a party of hop pickers boarded the 
train ; a happier, jollier, good natured crowd ot 
country girls and boys we never saw before. The 
usual violin, guitar, bones and mouth organ accom- 
panied them, and while they were with us, which was 
for over an hour, they kept up a continual revelry. 

In the beautiful agricultural districts through which 
we passed, the corn fields were almost a bright yellow 
with the thousands of pumpkins that almost hid the 
earth from view. Our thoughts went back to the 
days when we were boys and made hideous jack lan- 
terns to frighten nervous females and timid boys. 
One passenger remarked to another, "Is the pumpkin 
a berry or a fruit ?" After a little discussion it was 
left to me, and I decided that it made berry good pie 
to say the least. 

Can't say what struck the train ; the effects of the 
joke, probably, was the cause of the train coming to 
a standstill and suddenly the brakeman called out 
" Nineveh Junction, change cars," which we did, and 
were soon on our way to Carbondale, running under 
that greatest of stone viaducts, over which passes the 
Erie Railroad, and came to numerous coal pits, coal 
shafts and coal towns, and soon that long-looked-for 
announcement by the trainman breaks upon our ear- 
drum, " Carbondale, change for the Gravity Rail- 
road." This we did very quickly, and found we were 
noticed by a fine looking old gentleman we discovered 
to be the Superintendent, Mr. R. Manville. After 
looking us over for size, style and general appear- 
ance, he took us for some one of note, which we were, 
and ordered out an elegant new coach for our sole 
use, as there was not room in the regular. This was 



one occasion in my life that my weight and size 
helped me to gain a prominent position. 

"All aboard," was the next sound I heard and 
looked around to see if I was all there, and we 
started. Our coach being in front, we acted as 
engine, and soon rounded at the first incline. Up to 
this time no propelling power was used, simply our 
weight and the gravity of the roadbed. Now we 
were attached to a cable and taken at the rate of 
ten to fifteen miles per hour up an incline ; then a 
little way of our own gravity, we came to another 
incline, and so on to incline after incline, until we 
arrived at Far View, the top of a mountain 2,350 feet 
above the level of the sea. From that point we struck 
at what is called the ten mile level, but it has forty- 
four feet fall to the mile. And here we glide without 
any apparent power thirty or forty miles per hour; 
without the annoyance of the engine, with its whistle, 
dust, smoke and cinders, and so elated with our ride 
that we deem heaven but a little way off ; this huge 
body of mine was for a moment ethereal, imagining 
that I had been flying instead of the train. 

Looking a little ahead I saw the village of Hones- 
dale in the distance and a most magnificent hotel 
located on the top of a mountain or bluff in the rear 
of the village, and almost as quick as thought we 
arrived. Alighting from the car we were met by Mr. 
H. J. Conger, who took us in charge and escorted us 
to the Allen House. After a little preparation supper 
was announced, and if ever that word was appreciated 
it was on that occasion by myself as well as my 
daughter. After doing ample justice to that very 
memorable meal, I was invited by Mr. Conger, and a 
lady guest at the hotel invited my daughter, to take a 



153 
walk, as they desired to show us the village. It was 
on a Wednesday evening and all the f'ifferent churches 
were sending forth their peal of the bell for the 
assembling together of the different congregations. 
Mr. Conger and myself were in deep conversation and 
did not notice we were holding the crowd behind us 
at bay by our slow martial tread. Presently I heard 
a remark coming from a lady directly behind us to 
this effect : "Who is that large, fleshy gentleman 
with Mr. Conger?" "I don't know, he must be a 
stranger in town." "Oh, I am sorry, I wish he lived 
here." "Why?" ''If he did I would form his 
acquaintance very quickly and invite him up to the 
house every evening six times a week." "What for?" 
"So he could sit down on our bible and press our 
autumn leaves." 

At this juncture we smiled and turned the corner, 
and proceeded up as far as the river bridge, then 
joining the ladies we passed through the principal 
business streets and returned to the hotel, after an 
hour and a half's walk. We parted with Mr. Conger, 
after spending a very pleasant hour in the parlor of 
the hotel with some of the guests, when our watch 
denoted the hour of bedtime had arrived. We retired 
* * * awoke, if not with the lark, a very good 
second, and about seven o'clock went to the depot to 
take the car, where we were introduced to Mr. William 
Muir, the superintendent of the Delaware & Hudson 
Canal Company at this point, who very kindly 
showed us the manner in which the cars were loaded 
with coal ; also the different screens used in selecting 
the different sizes of coal and the manner in which 
that commodity is placed on canal boats. We also 
saw the working of the steam shovel in loading from 
huge mountains of coal. 



1.54 

At the time appointed we took our special car and 
proceeded to return to Carbondale. The distance 
from Carbondale to Honesdale is i6 miles, from 
Honesdale to Carbondale is 20 miles. Entering our 
car we arrive at the first incline, and were soon at 
that part of the road called Horseshoe Bend. This 
gorge was formerly spanned by a bridge 175 feet high. 
By gravity we pass around a curve. The sight of the 
autumn foliage is grand, and the beautiful little 
village of Seelyville in the distance. We arrive at 
incline number fourteen; there are twenty-eight of 
these inclines in all. The sight of the track ^elow, 
one hundred cars loaded with coal taking their ser- 
pentine windings around the various curves, run by 
an invisible power, is a sight once seen, never for- 
gotten. Prompton Pass is the next place of note and 
we arrive at incline number sixteen, the engineer of 
which has made a beautiful flower garden amid rocks 
and coal which is very delightful to the eye. The 
large pond and station next in order is the feeder of 
the Delaware and Hudson canal. Waymart is the next 
station where trains are loaded fifty cars each ; this 
place is 1,450 feet above tide water. Next is incline 
number nineteen, over a half a mile in length, on the 
top of which is Far View, where we were met by Mr. 
R. Manville who invited us to take a ride in his demo- 
crat wagon with two spirited horses attached. Had 
the wagon been any smaller or the horses any less 
we would not have had the pleasure of taking in Far 
View. After they had procured a derrick and some 
steps I was gently raised into the seat in the vehicle 
and we proceeded on our tour of inspection. Every- 
thing that can be done, until the ingenuity of man is 
taxed to its utmost capacity for the pleasure and ac- 



155 

comodation of the visitors has been done by the 
company. Hundreds of seats, chairs and benches are 
arranged everywhere. 

Observatories, where you can ascend 150 feet to 
enhance your view ; grounds for base ball, croquet, 
lawn tennis ; in fact, everything to make it pleasant 
for picnic excursions or tourist travel, has been done. 
We proceeded to the highest observatory, which we 
found was a little too high for our observation on 
account of a dense fog, so that we had to feast our 
eyes from below. The observatory is twenty-six 
hundred feet above the level of the sea, and from its 
summit may be seen nineteen small lakes or bodies 
of water, springs as it were, upon the top of the 
mountain. From one the company use twenty-six 
thousand gallons of water daily. A magnificent view 
of the Adirondacks of New York, the White Moun- 
tains of New Hampshire and Green Mountains of 
Vermont, can be had on a clear day. There is some 
talk of building a hotel here for tourists, of which, 
when completed, I want to be one of the first guests. 
The time having arrived to depart, we were invited to 
inspect the huge engine, boilers and fan wheel, used 
to convey cars up and down the incline, and we 
should advise visitors to take in the Engineers' Art 
Gallery, which is really a curiosity. Our car being 
attached to the regular train we proceeded on our 
way to Carbondale, which is 12 miles. Again on our 
way three miles and a half we are at the Shepherd's 
Crook. The engineer, conductor and brakeman are 
in one person, occupying the front platform. He put 
on the brake and our car stood still and we had the 
pleasure of seeing the regular train ahead pass 
around the Shepherd's Crook. After witnessing that 



156 

novel sight Mr. Manville told his brakeman to catch 
the regular train, which seemed to us about three 
miles ahead. All he had to do was simply let up on 
his brake, and it seems as if we were there, for while 
I was taking in the scenes which greeted my eye we 
had joined the regular train, and I asked him how 
long before we would catch up to it, and I was in- 
formed we were already coupled on ; " for," said he, 
"the cows for the whole village of Carbondale pasture 
upon this hill side, and we have them educated for 
all the regular trains but not for specials, and for 
that reason I didn't care to run over any of the cattle 
and be accessory after the fact of their demise, so we 
coupled on to save me trouble and expense." Look- 
ing out I saw a woman in charge of about eight or 
ten cows, and truthfully, she was the homeliest 
person I ever saw. I asked him if they had female 
herderesses here, and he remarked "yes." I then 
said they must use that one's face to wean the 
calves by. 

"Carbondale, change cars." 

After bidding everybody good-bye we took our 
seat in the D. & H. company's regular train for 
Albany, arriving at five o'clock and thirty minutes in 
the afternoon. 

LAKE GEORGE. 

Every American, or tourist, should see it at least 
once. It is the largest of the Adirondack chain, 346 
feet above the sea, and 247, above Champlain, thirty- 
five miles long and from two to four in width, and 
fed from mountain brooks and springs coming up 
from the bottom, making it transparent. It is beau- 
tifully dotted with over 200 islands, and surrounded 



157 

by high mountains, some rising 2,000 feet above the 
water, clothed with foliage and dotted with villas and 
picturesque camps ; one feels like leaving the boat 
and remaining in this bower of enchantment. The 
steamers touch at all points of note, and arrive at the 
Sagamore Hotel, where you can, if you desire, remain 
over. 

THE SAGAMORE 

stands among the trees at the south end of the Green 
Island, 40 feet above the level of the lake, command- 
ing from its upper windows the grand scenery of the 
Narrows on the east, the broad lake and bays at the 
south and west, and the mountains on every side. 

The buildings comprising the Sagamore are of 
uncertain number, of varying levels, and picturesque 
in their grouping. The style is that popularly sup- 
posed to belong to the sixteenth century, — rising, 
one back of another, with short flights of steps 
between, connected by open corridors with charming 
outlooks ; its varied porticos, balconies and gables 
admirably displayed in colors that harmonize richly 
with their native surroundings. 

Its interior finish is plain, but rich and substantial, 
showing massive beams, fireplaces of artistic designs 
in terracotta, tinted walls and joiner work in native 
woods. 

The furnishing is all that can be desired ; chairs 
and sofas, multiform and inviting, of different woods, 
polished, and of willow-ware; the upholstery bright 
and cheerful ; the beds of the best kind procurable ; 
in short, no effort has been spared, nor cost con- 
sidered, in making this the ideal hotel. 



158 

The main hall and office, and the principal parlor 
and reading and smoking rooms are on the main 
floor, looking out upon a semi-circular lawn, with 
flower-bordered walks, leading down to the steam- 
boat landing, and revealing between its stately trees 
delightful vistas of lake and islands beyond. 

In the office are electric bells, with a system of 
wires running to the various rooms, placing them in 
immediate communication with base of supplies. 

Telegraphic connection is made with the Western 
Union system at Caldwell by special wire in the 
office. 

The news and notion stand supplies daily papers, 
periodicals, guides, maps, photographs, fine candies 
and fancy goods. 

An elevator is here for the service of such as may 
prefer it to the short flights of steps by which the 
upper floors are reached. 

The Edison Incandescent Light is used throughout 
the entire establishment. 

Spring water is brought from the mountains two 
miles away and 500 feet above the lake, and carried 
to every floor, where hose and pipe attachment 
affords the best of protection against possible danger 
from fire. 

The sleeping rooms are spacious — many of them 
€n suite, with private balconies and outside as well as 
hall entrances. 

The sanitary conditions are perfect, made so by the 
employment of the most approved methods of drain- 
age, for the application of which the location is 
admirably adapted. 

Baths, hot and cold, may be had at the hotel and 
bath-houses outside ; while those who like open air 



159 

and water for the sport, will find retired places and 
sandy beach near by. 

Amusements : billiards and bowling within, and 
croquet, tennis, polo and archery without. 

Riding and driving are provided for in the exten- 
sive stables on the island, and accommodations for 
those who may bring their own equipage. The 
drives are many and delightful. 

Fishing, rowing, sailing or ''steaming" are all 
made attractive by respectful attendants, and a fleet 
of boats ranging from the tiny skiff to the comfort- 
able steam yacht. 

A large hall for music and social gatherings has 
been built, connected with the main building at its 
highest point. Two new cottages also, and twenty- 
six new and desirable sleeping rooms have been 
added. 

The line steamers land on every regular trip through 
the lake, connecting with the trains at each end, and 
run from Caldwell to the Sagamore dock on the 
arrival of the evening train from the south. 

The proprietor, Mr. M. O. Brown long and popu- 
larly known as a hotel man on the lake, will spare no 
pains to make your sojourn attractive in all respects. 

The cuisine is perfect. The Chef and assistants 
are from the leading New York hotels. The head 
waiter, with his excellent and full crops of carefully 
trained and experienced waiters, the best that could 
be obtained. 

As I have cheerfully recommended tourists for the 
last six years to make a short stay at least at this 
delightful resort, the Sagamore, (it is as near heaven 
as many mortals will reach,) get within its portals if 
but for a short time, that you may realize its beauties, 



i6o 

then you can thank me for the suggestion, as many 
others have, and I will be well repaid. Connections 
are, however, arranged for, and you can, if you wish, 
leave immediately for Caldwell. 

FACILITIES FOR LAKE TRAVEL. 

The Champlain Transportation Company run a 
regular line of steamboats the entire length of the 
lake, making three round trips daily (except Sunday), 
and stopping at all way landings. The Horicon of 
this line, making the regular connections with the 
railroad, is a fine side-wheel steamer 203 feet long 
and 52 feet wide over all, and is 643 tons burden, and 
will accommodate comfortably 1,000 people. I can 
truthfully say that upon no inland lake in the world 
is the passenger service so promptly and regularly 
done, and passengers so elegantly cared for as upon 
Lake George. 

Caldwell is the railroad terminus, and is the largest 
town on the lake. It is situated at the extreme 
southern end, or head of the lake (the waters flowing 
north and emptying into Lake Champlain, imme- 
diately at the ruins of old Fort Ticonderoga. ) At 
Caldwell is located the handsome dock and depot 
building of the railroad company, whose trains run 
down the dock immediately to the steamers — one of 
which leaves upon the arrival of each train, for all 
points down the lake. The railroad was extended to 
this point in 1883, thus saving at least one hour of 
time, and better facilities for the accommodation of 
tourists and pleasure travel. The Adirondack R. R. 
has been purchased by the D. & H. Co., and hereafter 
will be known as the Adirondack Division of the D. 
& H. system. 



i6i 



SARATOGA SPRINGS, 

the focus to which the fashionable world of the 
United States, indeed, of Europe, is annually drawn. 
Here are intellectual men, stylish men, the beaux of 
society, and the man of the world; ladies of social 
rank, the managing mother, the marriageable daugh- 
ters, the fluttering bee of fashion, and the more gentle 
bird of beauty, are found amidst the throng, for 
Saratoga is cosmopolitan. As a gentleman said to 
me one day, ''I can meet more of my friends in one 
hour during the season at Saratoga than I could at 
home in a week." The ladies here have ample oppor- 
tunities to display their peculiar charms and graces. 
The sporting gentleman can also find an opportunity 
to gratify his peculiar tastes; the philosopher may 
study human nature ; the invalid find perfect health; 
in fact every one at Saratoga finds that peculiar 
pleasure they most desire. Of all the elegant hotels 
which here abound we have not space to mention. I 
will, therefore, speak of those I know, the United 
States, Clarendon Hotel and Adelphi, confident they 
can please any one paying them a visit. The Claren- 
don Hotel has this year been transformed in more 
ways than one. I will only say that it will be under 
the management of Averill & Gregory, and to those 
who patronize hotels, these names speak volumes. 
Next comes the Adelphi Hotel — this new, comfortable 
and petite hotel is located on Broadway, contains 
over one hundred rooms, is convenient to the springs, 
etc., etc. Its piazza is elevated one story above the 
street and commands a splendid view up and down 
Broadway, as well as Phila street, opposite. The 



l62 

proprietor, A. E. Wilder, is too well known to the 
traveling commanity to need one word from me, and 
the gentlemen connected with the office, Mr. John T. 
McCaffrey, of the Gilsey House, New York, and Mr. 
W. S. Bigelow, of Boston, Mass., and Troy and 
Mansion House, Troy, N. Y., and Mr. Patrick N. 
Quinlan, in charge of the dining room and other 
departments of the house, are too well qualified to 
need commendation. It is "my home" when in 
Saratoga ; that is all I have to say against it. Under 
the Adelphi Hotel is the office of the Saratoga Kis- 
sengen Company. The Kissengen is "The King" of 
table waters. Drop in and examine its qualities ; I 
feel confident you will be pleased. It is the universal 
opinion of tourists that no watering place on the 
continent, of like size, can compare with the un- 
wearying charms of Saratoga. The hotel arrivals 
some days are upwards of one thousand. One might 
become almost tired of the world and vote every 
other place a bore, but Saratoga scenery, Saratoga 
atmosphere and Saratoga life would still charm by 
its ever pleasing peculiarities. 

THE UNITED STATES HOTEL, SARA- 
TOGA SPRINGS. 

That magnificent Saratoga Palace, the United 
States Hotel, will open the present season on June 
19th, and entertain many of the world's most dis- 
tinguished people until October ist next. Messrs. 
Tompkins, Gage & Perry, the proprietors, form a trio 
whose reputation as hotel men is not excelled any- 
where. During the season each gives his personal 
attention to a department of the hotel, even to the 



1^3 

minutest detail, and the result is, that their concert of 
action has won for them fame and fortune. Work- 
men are employed throughout . the year. Every 
winter the plumbing, furniture, in fact everything in 
the interior of the hotel, is thoroughly examined by 
the corps of competent men who repair and improve 
where necessary, and each spring the exterior of the 
building, and park, walks, fountains, etc., receive the 
same careful attention. Just now the outside of the 
hotel is being repainted. " Apropos " of this, a visitor 
said to me as we watched the painters industriously 
applying the paint, ''Why, it seems almost a waste of 
money to paint that hotel this year, as it scarcely 
seems necessary ;" and then he added, " Everything 
must be the pink of neatness and perfection about 
that hotel." He was right, and struck the key note 
of the policy adopted by those successful hotel pro- 
prietors. One of the most notable features of this 
hotel is the service. Even the hypercritical guest 
cannot find a loophole in this department through 
which to make a complaint. Each succeeding season, 
with but few exceptions, occasioned, perhaps, by 
sickness or death, the same competent staff returns 
to take up their old duties. I met Mr. Hiram Tomp- 
kins and Dr. Perry, who had just returned from New 
York, and they said, " The prospects of the season are 
excellent. We have already rented over two-thirds 
of our cottages for the summer, which to this date is 
without parallel in the past ; of all the departments 
of the hotel the same can be said. Yes ! Stub's 
Orchestra will return, and about all of the old help. 
The minute detail for the opening is complete and 
we will be all ready on the 19th of June for the Stove 
Makers' Convention." But little if anything can be 



164 

said here to add luster to this world-famed hotel. 
Make it your home while in Saratoga and you will 
have the satisfaction and consolation that no other 
hotel can give. 

Mount McGregor, the place selected above all 
others for its pure air, etc., etc., as a residence for our 
hero, Gen. U. S. Grant, who arrived at Saratoga on 
June i6th, 1885 (during my stay for health), so I had 
the pleasure of seeing the old veteran while he was 
being conveyed to the Mount McGregor R. R., which 
ascends to the top of the mountain, where visitors 
can go almost every hour and get a view that will 
well repay them. I left Saratoga on the morning of 
the 19th of June, and was informed by the conductor 
of the Mt McGregor R. R. that General Grant rested 
well the previous night and slept ten hours. As all 
are aware, our hero departed this life July 23d. The 
cottage, however, is kept in the same manner as the 
day he left it, and will become an historic place for 
visitors who come to Saratoga from all parts of the 
world. 

It is a fact, and worthy of note here, that for the 
past four years there has not been one day during the 
months of July and August, but they have had a 
heavy frost on Mount McGregor. I can vouch for 
the truthfulness of this item because I know him. He 
is the conductor of the train on the Mt. McGregor 
R. R., weighs 280 pounds, and his name is Frost. 
(He was a broad-gauge conductor on a narrow-gauge 
railroad). 

Saratoga contains to, 000 inhabitants and in the 
summer season every private house is turned into a 
boarding house of one or the oiher class, and there- 



i65 

fore boarding houses abound — no space to mention 
all of them here. 

Next in order comes the Springs. First in the list 
is the old and ever popular Congress Spring. 

CONGRESS SPRING 

was discovered nearly a century ago — 1792-7-by Hon. 
James Taylor, Member of Congress from New 
Hamphire. The park connected with the springs is 
beautifully laid out with walks, groves, flowers, trees, 
and ponds in which speckled trout abound, fountains, 
statuary, live deer, etc. ; where night and day the 
beauty and fashion come for pleasure and to imbibe 
the water of Columbia and Congress Springs, which 
are within the enclosure. Those who are posted 
come here and drink. During the past year the 
owners have re-tubed Congress Spring, which has 
proved eminently successful and now have the water 
secure at a depth in the rock which precludes the 
possibility of any change in the near future. The 
flow is ample and quality genuine ; in some respects 
better than any produced by the spring in all the 
hundred years of its past history. I feel that they can 
be congratulated, and the general public as well, on 
being able to secure Congress Water strengthened 
and vitalized in those qualities which have so long 
made it famous as a cathartic and alterative as well 
as a sure aid to the digestive organs, 

HATHORN SPRINGS 

was accidently discovered in 1869, and is named 
after the Hon. H. H. Hathorn, its owner. It is a 
powerful cathartic. The water is bottled for sale, and 



1-66 

is probably the most solid water known, and it is said 
to contain eight hundred and eighty-eight grains 
solid contents to a gallon. 

EXCELSIOR SPRINGS AND PARK, 

some distance from town, as well as others I shall 
mention, you can yisit when you take a drive. Wash- 
ington Spring is on the grounds of one of the hotels. 
Crystal Pavilion, High Rock, Star, Seltzer, Red, A 
Spring, Geyser or spouting spring, Robert Ellis, The 
Vichy, " The Champion Spouting Spring," Hamilton, 
Putnam, Flat Rock, Magnetic, Sulphur, Iron, Diamond 
and Patterson, as well as a number of others which 
have been discovered, or may have been before this 
reaches you. If, however, you are not satisfied with 
the springs herein mentioned, all I ask is for you to 
visit the ones mentioned, as I did, and accept the 
cordial invitation of each to take a glass, and if you 
do not feel the next day that there are springs 
enough at Saratoga, your feelings will be different 
from the sensations felt by the writer of this article 
by a large majority. The drives in this vicinity are 
numerous. The road to the cemetery (which, I am 
informed by one of the oldest inhabitants, in order to 
start, they were obliged to borrow a corpse from an 
adjoining county, and now a select few who wish to 
die happy come and are decently interred), has been 
improved, so that the drive is very much enhanced 
thereby. By far the prettiest drive, however, is 
through Broadway from Highland Hill for two miles 
to Glen Mitchell. The most fashionable drive is that 
to the Lake. Immense sums of money have been 
expended to widen and beautify this drive, which is 



167 

loo feet wide and shaded with trees, and is sprinkled 
to lay the dust. Visitors pass up one side and down 
the other. Saratoga Lake is eight miles long and 
two and one-half wide. On an eminence on the 
western shore is Moon's Lake House, proverbial for 
its sumptuous game suppers. Parties fond of fishing 
or boating can enjoy this favorite pastime to their 
full extent. Mr. Moon retired some three years ago, 
being succeeded by Messrs. Kinney & Foley. Its 
fitness for aquatic sports has been verified by the 
many events of that nature which have taken place 
on its placid waters since 1871, when the Ward 
Brothers vanquished two English crews selected from 
the best professional oarsmen of Great Britian. 
Racing is the turf event of the year, and cannot be 
described here, only mentioned. 

Life at Saratoga is two-fold — Home and Hotel. 
The former is enjoyed by its citizens, who possess 
some of the most luxurious, refined and elegant 
houses to be found in the United States. Hotel or 
fashionable life is ephemeral in its nature, and, like 
the beautiful butterfly, its duration is short. In these 
few brief months, wealth, beauty, fashion and other 
ingredients not so desirable intermingle, and amid the 
gay whirl and excitement of the ball room at night 
one is in a constant ecstacy. From his visit to the 
springs in the morning, promenades or drives in the 
afternoon, the music, lawn sociable and glittering 
fireworks at night, one wonders what time there is 
for even nature's balmy, sweet restorer — sleep. An- 
ticipating your stay at Saratoga to have come to an 
end, you can depart for Albany any morning via 
Delaware and H udson Canal Co.'s R. R., or West Shore 
R, R., who run solid trains to and from Saratoga to 



i68 

New York, and New York to Saratoga, Pullman 
Buffett Cars. Some having tickets to New York by 
rail or boat, day or night from Troy or Albany. The 
general offices for all railroads or steamboats and 
bureau of information is in the Adelphi Hotel Build- 
ing, presided over by my genial friend, Mr. J. S. Grass 
(don't make any pun on his name please). Do busi- 
ness with him and the transaction will remain ever 
'■Highf in your memory. I advise everyone to take 
the Fall River Line to Boston. If you have tickets 
to Boston via Albany, all rail, take the Boston & 
Albany railroad, which is first-class. 

NEW YORK. 

To those visiting New York for the first time, a 
few words of advice may not come amiss. I there- 
fore suggest arriving, if possible, by daylight. Every 
one in the city minds their own business — a credit in 
some ways ; but some people make it their business 
to fleece the stranger. I would therefore say, keep 
your own counsel. If information be required ask a 
policeman. Upon arrival, take cars or cab, if pos- 
sible, to destination. If you desire any of the hotels 
represented in this work, you will always find one or 
more trusty porters at trains or boats. Avoid, if 
possible, the hacks, unless you make a fair, square 
bargain before entering the vehicle ; your trunk or 
valise may accompany you with carriage. You will 
always find upon all trains or boats, courteous agents 
of the different baggage and express companies, who 
will take your check, giving a receipt for the same, 
which relieves you and saves you much trouble and 
annoyance, as their delivery system is prompt and 



169 

their charges a stipulated price; no deviation, except 
for quantity. 

Something should be said here regarding the me- 
tropolis of the American Continent, but space as well 
as time prevents. As everything seen here is in 
grandeur superior to elsewhere, the impression made 
upon the mind while here will be everlasting. I 
shall not try to befog the mind with as meagre a 
mention as I am capable of giving, but simply refer 
to the principal hotels. The first one at hand is the 
Grand Union Hotel, 426. street, near the Grand Central 
Depot. Money-getting being the chief aim of life, 
its proper expenditure should not prove of secondary 
importance. That travel consumes a much larger 
portion of our finances than it should, is evident from 
the fact that but a few possess the secret of retrench- 
ing in that direction. Two important factors of 
expense in travel is carriage hire and transfer of 
baggage ; and that the traveling public is more gen- 
erally becoming disposed to throw off their former 
burden, is patent from the army of guests who daily 
register at and fill the 600 rooms (reduced to $1.00 
and upwards per day), at the Grand Union Hotel, 
opposite the Grand Central Depot, New York City. 
Its European plan, elegant restaurants, cafe, lunch 
and wine rooms, unexcelled cuisine, moderate prices, 
courteous treatement, unchallenged management, 
coupled with its guests incurring no expense for 
carriage hire or baggage transfer, with elevated rail- 
way, horse cars and cabs to all parts of the city pass- 
ing its doors, renders the Grand Union one of the 
most desirable of homes for travelers in the city, and 
also established its success and world-famed popu- 
laritv. 



lyo 



A MAGNIFICENT HOTEL. 

The Murray Hill Hotel is situated on Park 
Avenue, in New York City, but one block from 
the Grand Central Depot. A more convenient 
hotel site for the accommodation of the newly 
arrived traveler who would at the earliest moment 
find a home, could not have been selected. The 
house stands upon the highest grade in New York, 
and, of course, occupies the healthiest of locations. 
It is of great size, extending two hundred feet on 
the Avenue, more than two hundred feet on For- 
tieth street, on the one side, and on Forty-first 
street on the other. It is of granite, brown stone 
and brick, fire-proof. When the traveler finds a 
hotel in every way meeting his demand for his com- 
fort, he may honestly praise it while he disparages 
no other. For New York contains many costly 
structures, whose proprietors severally believe that 
their guests have reason to be satisfied. Hotels 
are not advertised as second class by those that 
manage them. The man who is used to comfort 
at home is perhaps as good a judge as any one 
concerning what constitutes a satisfactory hotel. 
But, if you come to New York in the summer, 
I recommend you to this house, for in all this city 
there can be no healthier place in the warm season. 
There is a satisfaction felt at once upon entrance 
to this beautiful house. The vestibule is appar- 



ently just large enough ; the handsome, short flight 
of marble steps that lead to the office seem to 
be just long enough, the great hall seems just 
high enough to satisfy fully the idea that one has 
of proper architectural proportion. The floor is of 
marble, but not the hideous black and white inset 
diagonal. The Sienna is set against the slate and 
is a carpet pattern. One rather expects it to be 
soft and- yielding to the foot, it looks so like a 
Wilton. The office is roomy ; not three or four 
only, but forty people may range themselves along 
its handsome counter ready to sign, in regular 
order, the register. The book stand is no con- 
tracted affair, but space enough is given to allow 
display of, and easy access to, all periodicals and 
newspapers. Everything is on a grand scale, but 
altogether convenient. The great fire-place, which, 
with its huge burning logs, in winter invites the 
guest to share its comfort, is an attraction that 
merits and receives enthusiastic comment. The 
electric clock, lighted at night, the chandeliers, 
which at the proper time, because of the light 
touch of a knob somewhere, instantly illuminate 
halls and parlors, have their supply of electricity 
from the great machines in the basement, and the 
ice that is used for any purpose through all the 
house is made in huge condensers there. All the 
departments seem to be at all times in the best 
working order. All the employes seem ever will- 



172 

ing to do their best to please the guest. There 
is a painstaking to furnish information when it is 
asked ; if one clerk does not know he directs you 
to one who does. In the matter of meals, they 
are ready at all hours. At the time of registry, the 
choice is made between the American or European 
plan, but the restaurants above and below stairs 
are always available. It would be easy for me to 
compliment the management and the efficient office 
staff, but that goes for the saying. As space is 
limited, I need only advise you to give the Mur- 
ray Hill Hotel your patronage once ; they will see 
that you make it your home thereafter. 

On September 23d the opening of " The Plaza'* 
takes place, which is to be New York's grandest effort 
in Hotel history. It will occupy a frontage facing 
Central Park on the north, 5th Avenue on the east, 
58th St. south to 59th St., overlooking all drives. 
Within half a block of the 6th Avenue Elevated, 
where all trains are made up — it, therefore, will be 
the home of the refined and wealthy of New York 
citizens, as the interior will be elaborately furnished 
and most costly decorated of any hotel in America. 
One word more, it is under the proprietorship of the 
Hammond Brothers of the Murray Hill, and the per- 
sonal supervision of F. A. Hammond. 

The next on the list is the Grand Central Hotel, 
Broadway, one of the largest in the city. It has 
lately been refitted, re-decorated and re-furnished, 
and under the present proprietors, Messrs. Fayman 
& Sprague, is receiving the patronage its merits 



173 • 

deserve. It is run on the American and European 
plans, so that anyone can be pleased. Its graded 
prices, its location and appointments, together with 
the friends one meets here, as it is patronized by more 
Southerners than any hotel in New York, makes it a 
pleasant place for tourist or traveler. I make it my 
home when in the city, and feel confident you will be 
pleased and recommend your friends there after a 
visit, the same as I do you. There was some talk of 
changing the name of this "landmark" on account 
of the thorough change in the hotel and manage- 
ment, although I confess it would be applicable to 
the situation, as everything else has been changed, 
it would be better for its patrons to advertise the 
changes than the new name. Therefore, no matter 
what they call the Grand Central, it will please you 
as a hotel, and its prices are not extravagant. 

While in New York, about the middle of June, I 
thought il would be a good idea if some one of the 
many, merchants in the city were to advertise in this 
little volume; knowing that it is not thrown away but 
retained as a souvenir, it will be a perpetual adver- 
tisement; I called on Dr. W. L. Fleming, "The Cancer 
King," of 206 West 5 2d St., New York City, who 
showed me hundreds of cancers, which he removes 
without the aid of a knife. It this should greet the 
eye of an afflicted one, I feel positive after calling 
and being treated they would look upon me as a 
benefactor as long as they live for putting in my 
book this gratuitous notice. I also visited three 
of the leading dry goods firms. No. i stated that 
I was too late, they did no summer business. 
No. 2 said my price was too high, but as I spend 
all the money I procure from advertisers on the 



174 

printing of books and get my money off the sale, 
his point was not well taken. No. 3 invited me 
to call next season, which I hope to have the pleasure 
of doing. I would like to say here that I published 
this book and advised the advertisers therein to take 
the space, feeling it would bring back to them four- 
fold what they paid me. It will, therefore, afford me 
pleasure to have you mention to any of the adver- 
tisers that it was through my solicitation and this 
work that you favored them with your patronage ; 
it will do you no harm and benefit me. 

BOSTON 

is one of the most interesting of American cities, not 
only on account of its thrilling traditions and his- 
torical associations, but for public enterprise and 
social culture, educational and literary facilities. Bos- 
ton is peculiarly Boston, and no one can describe its 
public, private or natural beauties in the space allotted 
me here. The principal sights are Bunker Hill 
Monument, Faneuil Hall, the Common, Public Gar- 
den, Old and New State Houses, Public Library, 
Old and New South Churches, Natural History 
buildings, Agricultural building. Institute of Tech- 
nology, New Trinity Church, Mount Auburn, Har- 
vard University building, Music Hall, the Great 
Organ, City Hall, Hospitals and other sights too 
numerous to mention here. Trimountain, or Three 
Mountains, as Boston was originally called, is a 
peninsula of about 700 acres, almost surrounded by 
the sea. Its climate in the hottest part of seasons is 
deliciously cool, bracing and invigorating, and it is 
undoubtedlv one of the healthiest cities in the world. 



175 

Its harbor, one of the best on the coast, is about 
twenty miles long by eight wide. Its many islands 
and coasts are lined with thousands of delightful 
summer resorts, reached by numerous railroads and 
steamboats every hour of the day, forming a pan- 
orama of busy life and pleasure to be seen nowhere 
else. Its drives inland are none the less interesting 
and picturesque, whether we visit the classic shades 
of old Harvard, the romantic walks at Wellesley, or 
the hundred delightful suburban villages, whose 
well-kept streets, bright lawns and elegant gardens 
simply reflect the elegance and taste within the 
homes of those who made Boston what it is. The 
excellent horse-car service of Boston is one of the 
best institutions. Nowhere else in the country is 
this important convenience to visitors so complete as 
here. The broad, handsome, open cars reach all 
points within ten miles of the City Hall, and give visit- 
ors a most delightful opportunity to see the attrac- 
tions at the least possible charge. 

Boston, the Capital of Massachusetts, embraces 
Boston proper. East Boston, South Boston, Roxbury, 
West Roxbury, Brighton, Charlestown and Dor- 
chester. Boston proper, or old Boston, was very 
uneven in surface, and originally presenting three 
hills. Bacon, Copp's, the. Fort, the former of which 
is about 130 feet above the sea. The Indian name of 
this peninsula was Shawmut, meaning "Sweet waters. " 
A narrow strip of land called the *' Neck " joined the 
peninsula to the main land ; this neck was formerly 
overflowed by the tide, but has been filled in and 
widened, and is now thickly built upon. East Boston 
occupies the west portion of Noodle's or Maverick's 
Island. Here is the deepest water of the harbor, and 



176 

here the ocean steamers chiefly lie. The wharf now 
used by the Cunard steamers is 1,000 feet long. 
South Boston extends about two miles along the 
south side of the harbor, an arm of which separates it 
from Boston proper. 

The first white inhabitant of Boston was the Rev. 
John Blackstone, supposed to have been an Episcopal 
Clergyman, and to have arrived in 1623. Here he 
lived until 1630, when John Winthrop, (afterward 
the first Governor of Massachusetts) came across the 
river from Charlestown, where he had dwelt with 
some fellow immigrants for a short time. About 
1635 Mr. Blackstone sold his claim to the now popu- 
lous peninsula for ;^3o, and removed to Rhode 
Island. The first church was built in 1632 ; the first 
wharf in 1673. Four years later a postmaster was 
appointed, and in 1704 (April 24th), the first news- 
paper, called the Bostoji News Letter^ was published. 
The "Boston Massacre" happened March 5, 1770, 
when three persons were killed and five wounded by 
the fire of the soldiers. In 1773 tea was destroyed in 
the harbor, and Boston bore a conspicuous part in 
the opening scenes of the Revolution. The city was 
incorporated in 1822, with a population of 45,000, 
which had increased to 136,881 in 1850, to 177,850 in 
i860, and 250,526 in 1870. By the recent annexation 
of the suburbs of Brighton, Charlestown, West Rox- 
bury, etc., the population has been increased to 
341,919 (in February, 1876). Population 362,876 in 
1880. On the 9th of November, 1872, one of the 
most terrible conflagrations ever known in the 
United States swept away the principal business por- 
tion of Boston. The fire broke out on Saturday 
evening, and continued until noon on the following 



177 

day, when it was brought under control, but again 
broke forth in consequence of an explosion of gas^ 
about midnight, and raged until 7 o'clock Monday- 
morning. The district burnt over extended from 
Summer and Bedford street on the south, to near 
State street on the north, and from Washington 
street east to the harbor. About 800 of the finest 
buildings in the city were destroyed, causing a loss 
of |8o,ooo,ooo. 

OBJECTS OF ANTIQUARIAN INTEREST. 

Among " buildings with a history," the most inter- 
esting in the United States, next to Independence 
Hall in Philadelphia, is Faneuil Hall. The famuus 
edifice, the "cradle of liberty," is in Dock Square, 
which also has an historical fame, because of the 
meetings of the Revolutionary patriots that were 
held there. The building was erected in 1742, by 
Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant, and by him 
presented to the town. Its original dimensions were 
TOO by 40 feet. Destroyed by fire in 1761, it was 
rebuilt in 1763, and enlarged to its present dimensions 
in 1805. A full length portrait of the founder, 
together with the pictures of Washington, by Stuart, 
of Webster, by Healy, of Samuel Adams, by Copely, 
and portraits of ^ John Quincy Adams, Edward 
Everett, Abraham Lincoln, and Governor Andrew 

adorn the walls. The basement of the hall is a 

• 

market. The old State House, in Washington street, 
at the head of State street, was erected in 1748, and 
was for half a century the seat of the " Great and 
General Court of Massachusetts," being the building 
of which such frequent mention is made in revolu- 



178 

tionary annals. It has long been given up to business 
purposes, the interior having been completely re- 
modeled, and the edifice surmounted by a roof which 
has wholly destroyed the quaint effect of the original 
architecture. Christ Church (Episcopal), in Salem 
street, near Copp's Hill, is the oldest church in the 
city, having been erected in 1722. It has a lofty 
steeple, and in the tower is a. fine chime of bells. 
The Old South Church, corner of Washington and 
Milk streets, is an object of much interest. It is of 
brick, and was built in 1729, on the site where the 
first edifice of the society had stood since 1669. The 
church was used as a place of meeting by the heroes 
of '76, and during the British occupation of the city 
was used as a place for cavalry-drill. It barely 
escaped the flames in the great fire. The Old South 
Society having erected a new place of worship on 
Boylston street, the old building was offered for sale, 
when a patriotic effort among the people originated 
a subscription for the purpose of raising funds to 
secure its preservation. King's Chapel (Unitarian), 
corner Tremont and School streets, was founded in 
1686, and the present building, a plain granite struct- 
ure, erected in 1750-54. Adjoining the church is the 
first burying-ground established in Boston. In it are 
buried Isaac Johnson, "the Father of Boston," 
Governor Winthrop, John Cotton and other distin- 
guished men. On the corner of Washington and 
School streets is the Old Corner Book Store, a build- 
ing dating from 17 12. The Old North Burying- 
ground, on the brow of Copp's Hill, was the second 
established in the city, and is still sacredly preserved. 
Here lie three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. 
Increase, Cotton and Samuel Mather. 



179 



THE OLD CEMETERY IN THE COMMON. 

In that corner of the Common bounded by Tremont 
and Boylston streets, and lying directly between the 
Masonic Temple and the Public Library, is an old 
burying-ground, shut off from the Common and the 
streets by an iron fence. It was formerly known as 
the South, and later as the Central Burying ground. 
It was opened in 1756, but the oldest stone is dated 
1761. The best known name upon any of the ancient 
stones is that of Monsieur Julien, the most noted 
restauranteur of the city a century past, and the in- 
ventor of the famous soup that still bears his name. 
This cemetery is the least interesting of the old 
burying places of Boston, and is consequently seldom 
noticed by the stranger. 

There are, according to the directory, nearly twa 
hundred hotels in the city. With that fact in view, I 
shall mention, first, the American House and the 
United States. In suggesting to intending visitors 
to Boston the name of the " Old United States Hotel " 
the proprietor feels fustified in recommending the 
house for just what it is, no more no less. I am at 
home when in the United States Hotel ; it pleases me^ 
and I am positive it will please you. 

The United States Hotel is one of the oldest and 
best of the well-established hotels of Boston. Its 
fame is wide-spread. Its seal dates back to 1826, and 
from that early date to the present it has been main- 
tained up to the best standard, but never better than 
now. It is situated directly opposite the Boston & 
Albany, within two blocks of the Old Colony, and 
only a short distance from the New York & New 



7«0 



England, and Providence Railroad stations, and is 
the nearest hotel to the retail portions of the city and 
the great commercial centers. 

The "United States" is occupied largely in winter 
by families owning their own private residences in 
the adjoining towns, who come into the city and 
make their residence at this famous old house for 
the winter months. During the summer season, 
therefore, their great family rooms are available for 
tourists, families and pleasure parties, giving accom- 
, modations that could not otherwise be afforded, and 
so allow guests the most extensive variety of rooms 
at the lowest possible charges. During the summer 
months the rates are reduced to $2.50, $3.00, and $3.50 
per day, according to accommodations, with board ; 
rooms without board, $r.oo and upwards, thus giving 
visitors an opportunity of making this hotel their 
permanent headquarters, from which to make daily 
excursions to the thousand places of historical interest 
with which the city and suburbs abound, and to 
the great manufacturing cities which surround it; 
while the fifteen hundred summer resorts and board- 
ing houses down the harbor and along the coast are 
available every fifteen minutes by boat or rail. Thus 
the "United States" will be found not only a most 
accessible and convenient hotel on arriving at Bos- 
ton, but will be found equally comfortable and eco- 
nomical for permanent as well as transient guests, 
while the facilities for reaching all the suburban 
localities and various sea-shore resorts are unequaled 
by any hotel in Boston. 

The American House, Boston, is the nearest first- 
class hotel to the northern and eastern railroad 
depots, and can without hesitation be recommended 



i8t 

as one of the best in the city. It has broad, well- 
lighted corridors, spacious public rooms and all 
modern improvements for the convenience of guests, 
and has long been noted for the cleanliness and 
comfort of its rooms, the invariable excellence of its 
table and that air of home-like comfort which is so 
refreshing to the tired traveler. It has a large num- 
ber of suites particularly desirable for families and 
large parties, and contains no dark rooms in which 
to store away an unsuspecting midnight guest. It is 
perfectly ventilated, has six stairways from top to 
bottom, and very recently renovated and improved ; 
furnishes superior accommodations at more moderate 
rates than most first class hotels. It is regularly 
kept on the American plan, charging $3 00 and $3.50 
per day, according to size and location of rooms, and 
is deservedly popular with the best class of pleasure 
and commercial travelers ; but rooms are let with or 
without meals, at the option of guests. 

My dear friend, John B. Schoffel, will, I am glad 
to know, manage this year his summer home, " Man- 
chester by the Sea," the finest resort on the coast. If 
you have time for only a call, take the Boston & 
Main R. R., Gloucester branch ; only 35 miles from 
Boston. It is the summer home of Agnes Booth, 
John Gilbert, Joseph Proctor, Mrs. Bowers, Franklin 
Haven, Pres. Merchants Bank, and a host of others. 
Beautiful harbor and beach, bathing nine months in 
the year, drives unsurpassed in America ; therefore if 
you are looking for the best in the land visit Man- 
chester by the Sea and be happy. 

One of the best traveling companions on a pleasure 
trip is a reliable Railway Guide, and we advise the 
tourist to get the best, as a cheap guide is like a cheap 
watch — never on time. 



1 82 

As we hold that this little volume is not thrown 
away, but taken home for future reference, a little 
advice of how to start upon a trip, etc., would not 
come amiss. We say 

ist, Select your route. 2d, Buy your tickets and 
secure your parlor car seats. 3d, Show your tickets 
to the baggage master and have your baggage 
checked. 4th, Go to the news stand and ask for The 
" Phat Boy's " 16 years on the St. Lawrence, or the 
Pathfinder's Railway Guide, as it is the oldest railway 
guide published, and the July number will contain 
the best railroad map ever published. It is the only 
recognized mouthpiece of the Passenger Agents' 
Association ; one can be assured of its reliability. 
The Phat Boy requests his friends to send to them 
next spring for a copy of their summer tours to select 
your vacation trip. Address, Pathfinder, Boston, Mass. 
5th, Don't bother the conductor by questions, as he 
has all he- can do to attend to his train, and the Path- 
finder's official tables and valuable maps tell the 
whole story. 

I have endeavored to describe faithfully and cor- 
rectly the route over which you have passed, dear 
reader. There are, doubtless, some whose knowledge 
of particular points is greater than my own ; to those 
I say most cheerfully, note them down, and forward 
to me, 21 Chestnut Park, Rochester, N. Y., and 
I assure you, they shall have a position in the next 
edition of this work, as my object and aim is to make 
this a perfect guide for any person desirous of mak- 
ing this, the finest trip on the continent., 

While it has never been published, to my know- 
ledge, it is a cold fact that Grover Cleveland 
paralyzed Dan Manning with ingratitude, and last June 



i83 

I received a dose of that commodity from the Gen- 
eral Passenger Agent of the Boston & Lowell R.R. that 
would have paralyzed Cleveland. Therefore I say to 
my friends, whenever you can avoid patronizing that 
railroad without injury to the Central Vermont, do so, 
and you will do me the greatest favor of a life time. 
After returning home and resuming the cares and 
position which you left behind for this trip, may you 
be filled with animation, life and health acquired by 
your excursion trip down the St. Lawrence, etc., and 
the pleasant memories of scenes witnessed, wonders 
visited, as well as the beauties of nature revealed, you 
will have double the vigor to prosecute the duties 
devolving upon you, with only spare time on hand to 
speak to your acquaintances and friends, recommend- 
ing them to make the same trip, not forgetting to 
mention The " Phat Boy's" i6 years on the St. 
Lawrence River as a guide for hotel and all points of 
interest connected with the trip. I will now lift my 
hat to the tourist and others who have made the trip, 
and bid them a temporary farewell. Hoping to see, 
next vacation, yourself and friends, I only say 



ADIEU. 




THE DELAWARE & HUDSON R.R. 

THE LEADING TOURIST LINE OF AMERICA, TO THE GREAT 

ADIRONDACK MOUNTAINS! 



Lake George, Lake Champlain, Ausable Chasm, Saratoga, 
Round Lake, Howe's Cave, Sharon Springs, Coopers- 
town and the celebrated Gravity Railroad between 
Carbondale and Honesdale, Pa. 

THE FINEST COMBINATION OF 

PLEftSyRE m HEALTH BESORTS \i THE WORLD. 

THE SHORTEST ROUTE BETWEEN 

NEW YORK AND JVIONTREAL. 

The completion of the CHATEAUGAY R. R. from Plattsburgh to 
S ARAN AC LAKE opens up the Great Mountain and Lake region of the 
ADIRONDACKS to direct rail communication. Only one hour's stage ride 
to the famous LAKE PLACID Resorts. 

MILES SHORTER than any other line between New 

York and Paul Smith's, and only six miles of stage 

ride, and that over a first-class road. 



The D. & H. R. R. Co. have just purchased the Adirondack 
R. R., which in futtire will be operated by them as their 
northern division. 

Send Six Cents in stamps for illustrated guide to 

J. W. BURDICKy Gen'l Pass. Agt., 

H. G. YOUNfj. Gen'l Man. Albany, J^. r. 



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For Mosquito Bites and Insect Stings Use 
WARNER'S LOG CABIN EXTRACT. 

It will give Immediate and Permanent Relief. 

WARNER'S 




[Trade Mark Rights Secured.] 



Warner's Log Cabin SARSAPARILLA. 

Warner's Log; Cabin COUGH AND CONSUMPTION 
REMEDY. 

Warner's Log Cabin HOPS AND ^UCHU REMEDY. 

Warner's Log Cabin EXTRACT, for Internal and Ex- 
ternal use. 

Warner's Log Cabin ROSE CREAM, for C?tarrh. 

Warner's Log Cabin HAIR TONIC, for the hair. 

Warner's Log Cabin PLASTERS (Porous). 

Warner's Log Cabin LIVER PILLS. 
Manufactured only by 



llOCHESTER, N. Y. 



X/^ ^^^^^^^^/^ 



WARNER'S LOG CABIN SARSAPARILLA. 

The Largest Bottle and Best on the Market. 



The Sagamore, 

ON GREEN ISLAND, LAKE GEORGE. 



Connected with the Main Land by Bridge. 

ADDITIONS : 

TWO QUEEN ANNE COTTAGES, 

FIFTY ROOMS FOR GUESTS, 

MAGNIFICENT EXTRA DINING ROOM, 

MUSIC HALL AND BALL ROOM. 

This splendid new hotel is open to guests from 

JUNE 23RD UNTIL OCTOBER 1ST. 

IT IS SUPPLIED WITH 

PASSENGER ELEVATOR, ELECTRIC LIGHTS AND BELLS IN 

EVERY ROOM, AS WELL AS OTHER MODERN 

CONVENIENCES. 

Its Location *the Finest on the Lake. 

THE TABLE IS EXCELLENT, THE SERVICE 
UNSURPASSED. 

Easy of access by Boats from the North or South, Baldwin or Caldwell, 
where trains with Palace Cars arrive from Saratoga, New York and intermediate 
points several times daily. 

For Descriptive Circulars and Plan of Rooms, Address 

M. O. BROWN, 

Lessee and Proprietor. 

Bolton Landing, Warren Co., Lake George 

N. B. — The Finest Livery in the vicinity of Lake George. 




TDe Latest ! 




"THE LILLIPHT" 

A miniature Detective Camera, Compact 
and Simple. Makes a picture 2}^ inches 
square. Size of Camera, 4x4x6 inches, 
outside measurement. 

USING ORDINARY DRY PLATES. 

6asily l+GindlGd ar\d Manipulafed 

BY ANYONE^. 

These Kepfes make beautiful Lantern Slides and can k enlarged. 

Camera comes in a handsome Sole Leather Carrying 
Case, with 6 patent Double Holders. Camera complete 
with 108 Dry Plates and Non- Actinic Lamp, gfe O. g^B- 
Illustrated book of instruction withe ach. 



Amateuf Outfits in Gfett fariety ! All the Latest Novelties I 

SOLE PROPRIETORS OF THE 

Patent Satchel Detective, Schmid Detective, Front Focus 

Novelette Camera, The Nonnandle Reversible 

BacTc Camera f The Phantom Camera^ 

Champion Light Weight of the World. 

Sole agents for the Celebrated Dallmeyer Lenses. 



E. & H. r. ANTHeNY & 00., 

MANUFACTURERS AND IMPORTERS OF 

Photographic Instruments, Apparatus and Supplies, 

501 Broadway, N. Y. 



Murray Hill Hotel 

Park Avenue, Fortieth and Forty-first Streets, New York. 

(One Block from the Grand Central Depot.) 




jV u —Guests of the Murray Hill Hotel have their haggage 
transferred to and from, the Grand Central Depot free of charge. 



^yOKiE 



Portable JplfoiiJi 




Are especially and admirably adapted for Summer Hotels, to be used 
as Annexes for lodging purposes, or for extra Dining-Room accom- 
modations, as well as for Billiard Rooms, Boat Houses, Bowling 
Alleys, Shooting Galleries, Etc. The attention of the public is 
called to the great variety of 

Artistic Summer Cottages, Lawn Pavilions and Damp Houses 

Now being constructed by this Company. These houses are built in 
Sections, and are put up without the use of nails, screws, or any 
external appliances whatever, and are erected in two hours' time, 
without skilled labor. , Send for Illustrated Catalogue. 




I 

735 Broadway, 0pp. Astor Place, New York City. 



St. lieais Hotel, 



Patronized. by Their Excellencies, the Governor General 
of Canada and Countess of Dufferin. 




Uiis Hotel, which is iinrivcvled for size, style and 
locality in Quebec, is open through the year J or pleasure 
and business travel, having accommodation for 500 
visitors. 

It is eligibly situated in the immediate vicinity of the 
most delightful and fashionable promjCnades ; the Gov- 
ernor'' s Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, the Place 
d^ Amies, Durham and Diifferin Terraces, l,4iOO ft. long, 
and 200 ft. above the River St. Lawrence, which furnish 
the splendid views and magnificent scenery for which 
Quebec is so justly celebrated, and which is unsurxjassed 
in any j)ar^t of the world. 

cjaiiiiiifliyi E. i^ussEiiii, 

^yianagef. 

N. IB. — Carriages should he engagmd at the Hotel Office to avoid 
imposition. 



. ?<2;-: 




OF THH WOl^IiD. 



NO LOVEe OF FINE SCENERy SHOULD OiT TO VISIT IT. 



Ausable Chasm is in Essex County, New York, on the west side of Lake 
Champlain, 

N. B. — Holders of through tickets i^a^ssing Port Kent by 
rail or boat can obtain stop-over checks to visit the Chasm. 

DflDT l/rMT °" ^^^ Delaware & Hudson Co.'s R. R., the through route 
rUII I iXLIi If between New York and Canada, is the railroad station for 
Ausable Chasm, and is also a port on Lake Champlain, where all trains and steam- 
boats stop, and stages are always waiting for Ausable Chasm and Lake View 
Ifouse. Tourists will find by way of Port Kent, Ausable Chasm and Ausable 
Forks is the JBest Point for Entrance into or Exit from the Adiron- 
dack Wilderness, it being as short and convenient as any, and by far the most 
beautiful and picturesque, presenting the opportunity to visit the far-famed 
Chasm. PASSENGERS GOING SOUTH on evening train from Montreal 
can stop over at Port Kent in time for a hot supper, spend the night comfortably 
at the Lake View, and with ample time to see the Chasm in the morning, go 
south that day through Lake George, or otherwise, at the same time as if they 
had stopped at Plattsburg or elsewhere. Stages leave and arrive daily between 
Lake View House, Ausable Forks and all parts of the woods. Parties of four or 
more may obtain private conveyances at regular stage fare. 

LiAKE VlECXl HOUSE. 

Only first class Hotel at Chasm. Delightfully situated near Chasm entrance, 
commanding views of Lake Champlain, Adirondack and Green Mountains. 
Appointments first-class. Tables of the best — vegetables fresh from the hotel 
farm. Air remarkably diry and health-giving. No malaria. Every effort will be 
made to make this Hotel an attractive summer resort. 



Liberal Terms to JPernianent Guests, 
cular and Information, 



Send for Cir- 



W. H. TRACY, 



Lessee and manager 




W. D. GARRISON, Manager. 



600 handsomely furnished rooms at ^100 per day and 
upwards. European Plan. 

First-class Restaurant, Dining Rooms, Cafe and Lunch 
Counter, a la carte, at moderate prices. 

GUESTS^ BAGGAGE, TO AND* FROM GRAND 
CENTRAL DEPOT, FREE. 

Rooms where ladies and gentlemen may check valises, 
coats, parcels, etc , without charge. 

Travelers arriving via Grand Central Depot SAVE 
CARRIAGE-HIRE and BAGGAGE EXPRESS by stop- 
ping at the Grand Union. 

All Elevated Railroads reached from this hotel. 

Travelers can live well at the Grand Union for less 
money than at any other first-class hotel in New York. 




MIXTURES FOR PIPE OR CIGARETTE. 

THREE KIIVGS, 

Turkish, Perique and Virginia. 
MELLOW MIXTURE, 

Turkish and Perique. 
TURKISH and VIR6IIVIA. 

PERIQUE and VIRGINIA. 

6El\UmE TURKISH. 



FLAKE CUTS. 

Especially adapted for the Pipe. 

VAIVITY FAIR. OLD GOLD. YIRGin^IA FLAKES. 

MOXTE CRISTO, SALMAGUNDI. 

The Latest Mixture. Granulated Mixture. 



OUR NEW CIGARETTE. 



As the result of long labor and careful study, we have this 
superb Cigarette to offer. It cannot be surpassed in purity or 
excellence, and is a novelty, unique, chaste and dainty. It is 
from the highest cost Virginia and North Carolina leaf. 



STRAIGHT CUT CIGARETTES. 

Unsurpassed in Quality. Used by people of refined taste. 

Highest award at brUsseLs, isss. 

The Finest Smoking Mixtures are of our manufacture. 



William S. Kimball & Co., 

FIFTEEN FIRST PRIZE MEDALS. ROCHESTER, IM. Y. 



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